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Into the deep end with an 82' gs1100e

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    #61
    I know it has been a bit since my last update, but I have gotten a little work done on the bike.

    Finished mounting the riser blocks. I am not going to take the time to shape them and radius the edges until I am sure that I am happy with the height. Also got the rest of the front end all buttoned up and torqued down. I have the fork tubes at MAXIMUM length.



    I also made the custom spacers for the inboard and outboard sides of the frame to center the bandit swing arm. The thick ones on the outside are to compensate for the loss of the foot control brackets that the swing arm pivot went through. .400" on each side.





    My new DID chain came in, along with my 5/8 offset counter sprocket (which is beautiful), so the next step is getting the spacers made for the rear wheel to align the sprockets. Also had my new motion pro chain tool, and levers come in.





    The new rubber is awesome, and I did throw the back tire up there just for the picture but.....ITS STARTING TO LOOK LIKE A MOTORCYCLE AGAIN!!!



    Last edited by Guest; 12-23-2018, 06:01 PM.

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      #62
      Thank you very much! It has gone fairly smoothly after my error with the head tube. I appreciate all your insight on this. It helps me look out for stuff before I get to it. I responded to a few of your comments below.

      [QUOTE=isleoman;2519430]NC,

      Great progress. It is starting to look like a bike. Do you plan to radius the vertical edges of the risers?

      I am going to wait until I know I am happy with them before I spend the extra time contouring them for aesthetics. It wont be any big deal when I am ready. I already have the program written. Just need to throw them in the mill.

      I have that same D.I.D. chain tool. Great piece of kit and simple as snot, but I still manage to do mess it up till I re-read the instructions, so don't loose them especially the parts in English.. Don't try to use that drive pin without first grinding the rivet perfectly flush with the plate. After breaking my pin I just pry the plate off with a screwdriver when rivets are flush.

      I've heard builders say they didn't need to grind some of the lower frame rail to get clearance for the chain when using a 5/8 sprocket. Others say you will. You will get the straightest chain alignment with the 5/8 sprocket and 180 rim.

      All I can do at this point is cross my fingers ya know. Either way, I am dead set on making this thing work. The 180 tire makes me smile. Lol.

      I didn't want to grind my frame, so I used a 3/8 offset. My chain is probably off (left to right) by 1/16 front to back but it didn't result in any unusual wear patterns over 6K miles and it easily clears my 160 tire. Looks like your going with a 180. It's been done but again increases the need to grind the frame. Will be interested in what you discover.

      You may want to install the chain and sprockets as well as the rear brake and control arm before making your spacers. I don't remember having to make spacers, I will have to go back an see what combo of Bandit and GS I used. You would think a 180 Bandit rim in a Bandit swing arm would use Bandit spacers, but the substitution of the GS hub throws a wrinkle in the calc.

      The spacers I will be making are going to be replacing the oem spacers on the bandit rear end. The factory spacers sit outside, and pressed down in the grease seals outboard of the wheel bearings. Like you said, because of the GS hub, I think the spacer on the brake side will have to be wider than oem part. If you look at a 98 bandit rear axel diagram, I think the 2 spacers are item numbers 5 and 10, but dont hold me to it. I am also going to have to make a spacer to sit down inside the new counter sprocket so that the nut will have something to sit against to hold it on.

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        #63
        Calling Isleoman...please help. I have read and re-read every thread I can find, and I don't know what I am missing. Why am I not able to use my bandit hub on the rear wheel? I have the sprocket fitted up on my gs hub and am trying to decide how to go about measuring for making my spacers once I have both sprockets aligned, but then I thought...it's a bandit swing arm, bandit wheel, bandit sprocket, bandit brake....if I just use my bandit hub and factory spacers, it will all be spaced correctly just as an OM bandit rear end would be. I read somewhere other than where you mentioned it before that the bandit hub was to tall (wide) for some reason for this project, but I can't remember or figure out why. I will have plenty of in out adjustment on my countersprocket to align with the rear sprocket on either hub. What the heck am I missing? Is it frame clearance? I could just easily switch the hub back to bandit, and have the whole rear spindle assembly together. Thank you very much for your time, and if I was unclear, pease let me know.

        Thank you!


        Originally posted by isleoman
        NC,

        Was looking at my rear wheel set up. It's actually a 170 on a Bandit rim.

        Wanted to make sure you have read this thread from front to back.... https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...acers%20Bandit

        For others looking for custom risers but lacking NC's skills see this link from JWhelan's thread above.

        https://ab-m.de/de/motorradzubehoer-...andard-22-2-mm

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          #64
          Originally posted by NCCNC View Post
          Calling Isleoman...please help. I have read and re-read every thread I can find, and I don't know what I am missing. Why am I not able to use my bandit hub on the rear wheel? I have the sprocket fitted up on my gs hub and am trying to decide how to go about measuring for making my spacers once I have both sprockets aligned, but then I thought...it's a bandit swing arm, bandit wheel, bandit sprocket, bandit brake....if I just use my bandit hub and factory spacers, it will all be spaced correctly just as an OM bandit rear end would be. I read somewhere other than where you mentioned it before that the bandit hub was to tall (wide) for some reason for this project, but I can't remember or figure out why. I will have plenty of in out adjustment on my countersprocket to align with the rear sprocket on either hub. What the heck am I missing? Is it frame clearance? I could just easily switch the hub back to bandit, and have the whole rear spindle assembly together. Thank you very much for your time, and if I was unclear, pease let me know.

          Thank you!
          The bandit swing arm is offset by about 3/16" (IIRC shifted for chain-frame/tire clearance). The stock aluminum 80-83 swingarm is centered in the frame. So moving everything to bandit does not work unless you offset the swingarm by 3/16" (using offset top hat spacers).

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            #65
            I totally get what you're saying.
            I didnt realize that the bandit swingarm was offset from the factory. I would much rather use my bandit hub, partially because of the condition of my gs hub, partially because of the ease of getting all the stuff on the rear axle correct, and partially because of the ease of modifying my already custom top hat bushings, and brass spacer configuration. If I am looking at the rear tire from behind the bike, in which direction are you saying I need to offset the swingarm 3/16" to use all bandit components?

            Thank you very very much!

            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
            The bandit swing arm is offset by about 3/16" (IIRC shifted for chain-frame/tire clearance). The stock aluminum 80-83 swingarm is centered in the frame. So moving everything to bandit does not work unless you offset the swingarm by 3/16" (using offset top hat spacers).

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              #66
              You are getting into a very confusing area here, an I'm doing this from memnory because all the pictures I have ever posted prbbaly wen taway.

              The Bandit is a 180/55-17 rear tire so that pushes the chain wider than a normal GS (5/8" offset counter sprocket) just for the chain to clear the tire. So that means the left hand swingarm fork has to be more left than normal.
              The wheel is still centered mid bike, but the swing arm forks are not centered.

              I used a straight edge and framing square to approximate the center line of the forks, and the measure the difference between that and the center of the sing bolt bosses (where the top hats go).

              Having gone through this with Katman (back in 2009) for at least a week trying to resolve his measurements that he was trying to do and I was trying to resolve my (18 GSXR wheels) bike alignment.\

              The most straightforward is to do what I suggest. It will be close enough. If you PM me an email address I can send the direct without having to host and post.

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                #67
                Any updates on this project?

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