Into the deep end with an 82' gs1100e

[NCCNC]

Man that is a crazy amount of awesome information!!! I have been racking my brain about what I will do about a gear indicator. Well....right there it is! Thank you very much!

Nice progress. Your harness looks like it is in real good shape. Here are some harness related links that I posted in the past specific to the GS1100EZ/ED.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161397-Compu-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install&highlight=Harness+1100

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?231754-Cyclops-3800-H4-LED-Headlamp-Bulb&highlight=Harness+1100

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?218780-Gs1100ez-ed-relay-mod-tips&highlight=Harness+1100

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?218368-GS1100EZ-ED-Replacement-Red-Universal-Digital-Gear-Indicator&highlight=Harness+1100

https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...t=Harness+1100

[posplayr]

Man that is a crazy amount of awesome information!!! I have been racking my brain about what I will do about a gear indicator. Well....right there it is! Thank you very much!

I probably already have one or two already modified if you are interested, I can look.

[NCCNC]

I am most definitely interested. Thank you.

I probably already have one or two already modified if you are interested, I can look.

[steve murdoch]

Your light stand is a cheap and easy solution to something i have needed for a while. That and new glasses.
With the detailed pics and info this has been a great resto to follow.

[limeex2]

Observations and questions. On the ZX footrests, is the shift shaft arm the same as Suzuki, my ZRX stuff was different? On the bandit swingarm, a GS1000 pivot bolt can be used as it doesn't have the aluminum bracketry that the 1100's use. Thanks for posting such detailed info. This will be helpful to me and others in our projects. I admire your courage in the wire harness. There is sooo much wiring in these models that is not used when doing resto mods. I like your lights too. The new LED lights are nice and I need the upgrade in my garage stall.

[NCCNC]

I installed all new overhead led lighting last year throughout the basement, but I was still having a hard time with side lighting. The folding mechanic lights only do so much, and for the 10 dollars of parts and time I had in this ugly rig, it makes all the difference in the world.

Your light stand is a cheap and easy solution to something i have needed for a while. That and new glasses.
With the detailed pics and info this has been a great resto to follow.

[NCCNC]

The shift arm for the zx actually has much finer splines than the gs, so I am going to cut each of them halfway, thread the matting ends, and then machine a female/female threaded adapter to use the foot control side of the zx rearset, with the attachment side of the gs shaft. It looks really good in my mind. ...you know how that goes. As for the wiring!!!! I am going to get as far as I can with laying it out, attaching connectors, and routing it, and at that point if i dont feel terribly comfortable, the guy that rebuilt the forks hit me with a hail Mary and let me know that he taught motorcycle wiring and electrical systems ( on 70's-90's bikes )for 10 years in Ohio before he moved to Asheville. He showed me a gs 550 he just finished wiring for a guy and it looked phenomenal. I REALLY want to get it done on my own though. That is really the whole reason I started this project...to learn about, and how to do things I have never done. It hurt my pride to even have someone else rebuild the forks, but i just have so much on my plate with this thing already. I swear it is nickel ($50) and diming ($100) me to death. Lol

Observations and questions. On the ZX footrests, is the shift shaft arm the same as Suzuki, my ZRX stuff was different? On the bandit swingarm, a GS1000 pivot bolt can be used as it doesn't have the aluminum bracketry that the 1100's use. Thanks for posting such detailed info. This will be helpful to me and others in our projects. I admire your courage in the wire harness. There is sooo much wiring in these models that is not used when doing resto mods. I like your lights too. The new LED lights are nice and I need the upgrade in my garage stall.

[NCCNC]

Alright Fellas, I haven't been part of this community long, but I have seen some of the amazing bikes some of you have built, and some of the excellent engineering and innovation that some have implemented. Having said that, I know that some of you will laugh and call me a dummy, and some will sympathize, as I am positive all builds have not gone as planned. There isn't much information I have found on the web about this, as I am sure most people's ego wouldn't let them admit it.

So, here goes. I knew when I got home this evening I was going to be popping out the steering head bearing races, so I grabbed the liquid O2 from the shop and hit the road. I have never done it before but really...how hard could it be. The lip on the upper bearing race was nice and accessible. A squirt of the cold stuff, a few taps, and pop...out it came. Well, the bottom one was a different story. It is pressed into an area that is flared out before the bearing race lip is exposed. I will preface this by saying that I am always the first one to tell people, "step back, relax, and think". Being a machinist, I have a very strong understanding of taking your time, and triple checking everything. Well, of course I didn't have a tool to reach around that radius. Punch won't work, extension with socket was a no go, ground down wrench....yeah right. So I heated up the tip of a screwdriver and bent it about 60 degrees, then ground the tip to a punching edge. Perfect. Froze the bearing race, went to whopping, and nothing. 400,000,000 smacks later, 2 crushed fingers, and a crazy blood blister and the SOB hasn't budged. Oh, I will just stop, go to work tomorrow, and make the right tool for the job...........OR NOT!!!!!! WHERE IS MY DREMMEL!!!!!! I took an 1/8th inch carbide endmill and split the race. I KNEW I was through it, by it would not move. Oh just a little more and I will be good. Just wouldnt take a step back and cool off. 3.5 hrs into the project and...ding...The race fell out. And I had cut a groove into my freaking bearing race seat the length of the race!!! Come on now. I am so so so disappointed in myself. It's not terribly deep, and it definitely is not thru the steering head, and is the deepest in one area that is only about .110 long, so I don't think it will ever harm a thing, but dang, my heart hit the floor. I am so frustrated with myself.

Anyhow, here are a few pictures of the races, and the top bearing. I will be pressing the bottom bearing off the stem at work, where I have the right tools for the job.







My wife came down the steps about half way through the fiasco, took one look at me, covered in sweat, PO'ed, grease up to my elbows, and walked right back up stairs. I heard the garage door open, but didn't think anything of it. When I came up, I was completely beat down. I have to say, I may have the best wife ever. She had gone to the store and bought all the ingredients, and had a big stack of pancakes, with a bowl of tortilla soup ready for me. MY FAVORITE DINNER!!! She also stopped by napa and picked up a brand new jug of gojo. She is amazing!



I ate and took a shower and she hit me again with one of these! I am still irritated with myself, but she knows how to take care of me.



That's it for tonight guys. Hopefully it will be the last post during this build of this nature. Just remember..... walk away, cool off, and think.

[NCCNC]

Perfect! I get what your saying. Thank you very much!

NC, In this picture the piece right above the circled R in the Photobucket logo replaces the longer GS adjuster shaft. It's from an FZ1 Gen 1 (01 thru 05). The threaded female receiver on the left end of that Yamaha piece has been shortened. I may have had to re-thread it to match on one side. I'm sure there are a lot of adjuster shafts that could be modified.

The shift peg and heim joint are ZX. The spline shaft collar and it's heim are GS

The little short double threaded piece to the left of the Yamaha piece is 1100ez.

[NCCNC]

Good evening Gents! I have so many projects going on with this bike, that I am jumping back and forth. I had a few minutes at the end of the day today, so I decided to start on the handlebar risers. The gsxr front end came with above the triple clip-on's, but that just isn't what I am going for. Thankfully, there is plenty of length up top to attach custom handlebar risers to the fork tubes. I am going to machine them from solid aluminium, following the profile of the top clamp. I am actually making them from the bottom up, which can be seen In the pictures. They will clamp to the tubes just as the triple clamp does, and will be aligned by the bars running through them.

Tracing the shape of the top clamp onto the stock.



Putting the coolant to it!!!



The chips really pile up.



52MM final bores.



I will be finishing the rest of the matching on a manual mill (pictures to come), but a good stopping point tonight.

[NCCNC]

I have done a little math and I am hoping it will pan out. I'm dropping the tubes 1" through the triples, and will have right at 1.415" to clamp too. The oem clip-on's were clamping a total height of 1.312", so I think it will be ok. If all that fails, i will just throw the 400 bucks down on an aftermarket top triple with integrated risers.

NC,

I think I see where you are going with the riser project, but I can't visualize how much the fork tubes will be above the top triple for your riser to clamp on. I would caution that most folks have dropped the GSXR 1100 forks to be level with the top triple. That's as far down as you can go due to the taper in the fork tubes where they clamp on the lower triple.

You've gone with 17" wheels which are a big drop from 19". You've lost another inch with the GSXR forks even if you lower them to the top triple. The good news about USD forks is they don't compress as much but, it hardly offsets the drop.

Just something to think about.

[NCCNC]

Just thought I'd let you know, I took your advice and bailed on above the triple handlebar clamps. Went ahead this afternoon and milled pockets in the bottom of my top clamp where the reinforcement blocks will sit. Socket head cap screws will run from the bottom through counterbored blocks that sit up in those pocket, through the top clamp, and into riser blocks. Blocks will be on the mill tomorrow afternoon. Pictures to come.

NC,

If you're saying there will be 1.3" of fork tube above the top surface of the triple I'd say that was a lot of ride height to loose.







I used stunt bike risers with two mounting bolts and just had to drill the four holes, but there are tons of oem modern bike risers on Ebay with single post that would be easy to adapt. Not suggesting that you don't build your own risers, just warning about ride height, it will haunt you once you're riding it. I had to also worry about the oil cooler hitting the front fender which is part of the reason for my cooler bracket design.

The last pic gives nice detail to the problem with the taper in the fork tube leg. You can't go any lower.

[NCCNC]

I got my new bearing races pressed into the head tube this weekend, got the old bearing off, and pressed on the new lower stem bearing, and got the front end mounted up,and the spanner nut torqued to spec. Man it feels nice. I also made my final spacers to get my swing arm mounted up, but realized I need to take a little more off the bandit shock mount so that it won't hit the GS battery box. My new used front rotors will be here Thursday which will be the final component to get the front end rolling.

Here are some pictures of the beginnings of the handlebar risers. They will be done tomorrow afternoon and I will post pictures.





As soon as my offset front sprocket shows up, I will get the chain fitted up so I can weld the new lower shock mounts on, and get the full bike rolling. I have also been looking at wiring diagrams....oh my.

[NCCNC]

My front rotors came in yesterday, so I got them mounted on the wheel, and did the first dry fit up of the front end. Front and rear will be getting some rubber next week, and I have my spiegler (sp?) braided lines here, so the front end will be wrapping up pretty shortly. My handlebar risers are done and mounted, but I left them at work, and we are looking at 15-20" of snow over the next 24 hours, so I don't think I will be headed over that way. I was very pleased at how centered and well fitting the calipers mounted up in relation to the rotors and wheel.

[Wangofree]

Excellent craftsmanship. Jealous of your shop!