Rebuild due to replacing a gasket

[Exponent]

Hi guys

I need to replace the base gasket of my GS 1000 G.

I need advice on what else I can do while I am elbow deep in the guts of the beast. My wife will be in San Francisco next week - so it is shopping time for stuff we battle to get here in Cape Town.

On the additional to-do list so far:
1) Carburetor recon (I remember someone on this site having put together a kit - anyone now who it is?
2) Engine paint (going with black) - any advice on do's and don'ts

I have found a business here that makes a fully equipped workshop available with access to a qualified mechanic on hand to help with the more intricate tasks, i.e. the timing chain will be handled by him. So I feel confident that I will be able to tackle almost anything, especially as most of the pieces seems like they will have to come off to get the gasket replaced.

1st question - It looks like Gasket kits come in 2 brands in the US - Vesrah and Athena - which is best?

Also for purchasing parts and accessories to be delivered to my wife's hotel - which sites are the best?

Thanks in advance

André

[Eli69]

For the carb kit look up member Robert Barr.

[greg78gs750]

I think most would recommend going with oem gaskets, at least on the base and head gaskets. A top-end refresh is not a terrible idea while you are in there, valve stem seals, maybe lapping the valves and seats, hone the cylinders and new rings....depending of course on your budget. Others are far more expert than me and will undoubtedly chime in soon....

[azr]

What ever site you use hopefully they can get it to San Fran in time, most don't keep it stock they order from Suzuki. For all the engine gaskets by OEM, NOT Versa or Athena, wayyyyyy to many bad experiences with those aftermarket gaskets/0-rings. You can buy aftermarket for low pressure gaskets but even those sometimes weep. Definitely replace your valve stem seals while you're in there. Did you do a compression test already? the numbers will tell you if you need new piston rings. Order the o-rings for the cam chain tensioner, it's always a good time to do the simple rebuild on that and then you're good to go for another 100'000 kms. Are your intake and airbox boots ok? if you haven't replaced the intake boot o-rings yet order those from Robert Barr at the same time you get your carb rebuild kit. You'll need exhaust gaskets too.

[2BRacing]

Hi guys

I need to replace the base gasket of my GS 1000 G.

I need advice on what else I can do while I am elbow deep in the guts of the beast. My wife will be in San Francisco next week - so it is shopping time for stuff we battle to get here in Cape Town.

On the additional to-do list so far:
1) Carburetor recon (I remember someone on this site having put together a kit - anyone now who it is?
2) Engine paint (going with black) - any advice on do's and don'ts

I have found a business here that makes a fully equipped workshop available with access to a qualified mechanic on hand to help with the more intricate tasks, i.e. the timing chain will be handled by him. So I feel confident that I will be able to tackle almost anything, especially as most of the pieces seems like they will have to come off to get the gasket replaced.

1st question - It looks like Gasket kits come in 2 brands in the US - Vesrah and Athena - which is best?

Also for purchasing parts and accessories to be delivered to my wife's hotel - which sites are the best?

Thanks in advance

André

Hi André

Not really seen you on GSR much previously, so hi and welcome from another local SA GS'er!

1. From lurking and reading most posts here on GSR, I have seen that most of the online sites in the US have to place their orders from centrally located warehouses, which takes a few days to receive. Then re-shipped to address of person who placed the order - so the whole process may take longer than expected, so just a heads-up if your wife is not going to be there for long.

2. Many members have posted about bad experiences with aftermarket gaskets (especially base gaskets). The genuine OEM base gasket is recommended for a long-lasting repair. I get all my parts from Suzuki South in Wynberg (speak to Aggies). Even if the parts are not in stock in Johannesburg, they come from Japan in a week or two. I have not needed to open the engine up yet, but have redone the brakes a few times, and all the OEM parts are still available.

3. While the cylinder head and cylinders are off, get the pistons and cylinder bores measured up accurately by someone who has the proper measuring tools and knows what they are doing. If the items are still within the specified wear limits as per the factory service manual (you have downloaded it from the GSR library, right?), usually only a light honing of the cylinders is required. New rings usually only needed if the mileage is very high. Replace all the valve guide oil seals and gently lap the valves in on their seats. Personally I would also use an OEM head gasket and valve cover gasket from Suzuki South.

4. Sorry, but I do not have experience with painting the engine and which specific paint to use, but the bottom line would be to clean, clean, and clean some more before applying the paint. Afterwards heat curing is recommended to ensure long-lasting finish.

5. As far as the carbs are concerned, as mentioned already, order the O-ring set from member Robert Barr (cycleorings.com). I get the OEM bowl gaskets and pilot jet rubber plugs from Suzuki South. There is really nothing else that needs to be replaced in the carbs, so avoid "carb overhaul kits" and just clean your existing jets and other brass parts. I use solvents such as acetone, xylene, lacquer thinners and toluene. GSR member "Nessism" has put together an excellent tutorial on rebuilding the CV carbs, if you have not already downloaded it).

Good luck with your overhaul, I will follow your progress!

[Big T]

Allow up to 2 weeks in advance when ordering parts online in the States. It takes about a week from the time the dealer places the order to receive it from Suzuki.

[Steve]

I don't have any experience with Suzuki South, but can verify everything else that Ben (2BRacing) had to offer.

I replaced gaskets on my son's 1000G and my 850G last summer, in preparation for our "Litttle Ride". I believe that both gasket sets were Vesrah, which is probably the best of the aftermarket brands. Cometic is a brand that you did not mention. General opinion is that they are not quite as good as Vesrah, and it is commonly known to AVOID Athena, except in dire emergencies.

That being said, my son's bike had some problems with the first set of gaskets, we had to replace them again. Now, about 7500 miles after the rebuild, his bike is oil-tight and burns no oil to speak of. My bike seemed to do well at first, but developed a MASSIVE oil flow (not a leak) from the base gasket while on a ride. That was about 2000 or so miles after the rebuild. To make it home, I had to clean the engine with brake cleaner, then smear JB Weld (a 2-part epoxy) over the base gasket to cover the leak. I made it about 1000 miles home from there, using less than 1 quart of oil. I will be opening up the engine soon to replace the gaskets with OEM parts.

Note that, even if you get a "complete" gasket kit, there are a few items that are NOT included.
Cam chain tensioner gasket
Cam chain tensioner rebuild o-rings
Tachometer drive o-rings

None of these is expensive, it's just an aggravation to have to place another order and pay another shipping charge for a few small parts.

.

[sharpy]

"1st question - It looks like Gasket kits come in 2 brands in the US - Vesrah and Athena - which is best?" if you use any of them thats just asking for trouble. Use Genuine Suzuki Gaskets. If you complain about the price think about having another weekend doing same job when crap gaskets start leaking.

[Nessism]

As mentioned, most dealer/on-line OEM part sources don't stock parts. After you place an order with them they then put in an order with Suzuki, and when they receive the parts they forward to the end user. Regarding the fastest source, in my experience that's Bike Bandit. They are more expensive than most but if the part is available in the California Suzuki warehouse they will get it in a day or two and ship it out almost immediately to you.

[Exponent]

Thanks guys - OEM parts it is. Looks like I will get them from Suzuki South as meeting delivery deadlines might be problematic.

I have sent a pm to Robert - thank you for pointing me in that direction

Any body willing to venture a time estimate for this exercise? (Active hours working)

[Big T]

Time is dependent on how much the current gaskets, bolts and etc are stuck on the parts.

Cleaning and scraping will add a lot of hours.

Easily done in a day if no issues

[Eli69]

Usually takes me about a year.

[Grimly]

Usually takes me about a year.

It's taken me nearly that, this time.
Usually, a strip and rebuild with new gaskets and seals would be a weekend, but the pressure of needing the bike back into service asap had a major bearing on that. This time around, in my cosy heated workshop, complete with bike ramp and all mod cons, it's taken the longest time ever. Of course, part of it was due to the old base gasket being neutronically fused to the barrels - honestly, I've never encountered one like it. Determined to not damage the sealing faces, it was a long painstaking process of soaking, scraping, more soaking more scraping, for weeks (quite literally).
Then, there was the additional time waiting for parts that I'd be daft not to replace as it's all apart and I don't want to take it apart again.

[Rust_to_Redemption]

Of course, part of it was due to the old base gasket being neutronically fused to the barrels - honestly, I've never encountered one like it. Determined to not damage the sealing faces, it was a long painstaking process of soaking, scraping, more soaking more scraping, for weeks (quite literally).

What are you using to scrape the gasket material? I've not had good luck when using the plastic "razor blades", but had better luck more recently when using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KEvision-Clea...gateway&sr=8-7 Seems to be better plastic, and the ones I used had a rounded bump on the wide edge that helped give you leverage to lift the gasket after you got under it.

[Grimly]

What are you using to scrape the gasket material? I've not had good luck when using the plastic "razor blades", but had better luck more recently when using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KEvision-Clea...gateway&sr=8-7 Seems to be better plastic, and the ones I used had a rounded bump on the wide edge that helped give you leverage to lift the gasket after you got under it.

This gasket laughed at plastic. Steel was what it needed, cold steel and right at it. Painstaking scraping of a molecule at a time.
If this had been a paying job, I'd had popped the barrels in the oven, removed the liners and taken the barrels up to a machine shop for a skim off the bottom, ie, remove the gasket mechanically with power and precision. Would have cost more, but saved a lot of time and aggravation.