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81 GS450 Cafe - Amateur build

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    81 GS450 Cafe - Amateur build

    Hey Y'all - I wanted to start a build thread to force myself to take more "before" pictures than I currently have, and of course I'll be looking for plenty of advice along the way.

    I just bought an 81 GS450L a few weeks ago that was about 1/3 of the way through a rebuilt. I chopped an 88 suzuki intruder vs750 last year, and did mainly cosmetic and minor work, and the key snapped in the ignition and the front tire went flat on my first ride after I got it running again so I decided God didn't want me riding that bike. I looked for something with easier engine access and that was chain driven because the intruder's shaft drive was way outside my mechanical ability, and the 450 jumped out at me! The PO threw in a full service manual and a new chain, which both were a godsend.

    When I bought the bike, it wasn't running - no battery, and it needed a carb rebuild and cleaning. It has cheapo pod air filters, so I needed to rejet for that because I knew it would run lean. The gas tank doesn't have good mounts, but I can throw it on the frame and hook it up to make sure everything is running. The seat pan was custom fabbed, but I need to do the seat foam and upholstery, and also figure out how I am going to attach the seat. And, the chain needed installed. The headers had a cheap wrap on them covering up pleeeenty of rust.

    Otherwise - electrical is all good! I bought an antigravity small case 8 cell and mounted it right under the seat, and everything worked. (No turn signals or spedo are installed though, just a tac and head/brake lights).

    What have I done so far?
    - Installed new spark plugs
    - Pulled the carbs - rebuilt and cleaned them
    - re jetted carbs with a 130 main and a 120 pilot - I haven't been able to find the needle jet, or been able to adjust the clip on that, which I think I still need to.
    - started painting, to keep me busy while I waiting for parts.
    - Pulled the exhaust, and took some steel wool and a stripping pad to them to get rust off, then attempted at least to get them nice and shiny again.
    - Adjusted throttle cable and clutch cable.
    - Installed the chain. Only after fighting with about 5 stripped screws to get the case off - I've since replaced them with hex head bolts so I can just take a wrench to them next time.
    - oil change.


    Even with the battery, the bike still didn't start initially, and I was beyond frustrated. The PO had done a compression test before selling it, and I knew that wasn't the issue. The battery was good, and spark plugs were new, so I wasn't thinking electrical was an issue. But, even though I'd done plenty of carb work, I knew it had to be a fuel issue.

    I thought the vaccum petcock was the issue, but when I tested that, it was fine. It ended up being the simplest thing I looked right over - the fuel line! the line was too short, and was kinked above the carbs. I went and got a longer fuel line, and threw in a cheap autozone inline fuel filter and routed it to make sure fuel was getting to the carbs and the bike started up.

    At first start - the RPMS at idle went from 1.7k - 2kish up to 5k without me touching the bike, so I kept having to shut it off to keep it from freaking out. White smoke was coming from the exhaust, but once the bike eventually warmed up that wasn't quite as prevalent. The pipes were smoking, because I hadn't gotten the exhaust wrap off at that point, and they were crazy hot compared to my intruder's wrapped headers. There was oil leaking somewhere from the left side of the bike, I think the crankcase? but very little. The bike was clearly overheating in a hurry.

    I adjusted the idle screws and air screw, and the idle stayed consisentish until I touched the throttle. The RPMS jumped up with any throttle, and then stayed high. I took it for a ride around the block because I wanted to get on the bike just to help diagnose potential issues - I made it about 1/4 mile and the bike actually ran pretty well. But, when I slowed to a stop, the bike died, and then wouldn't start back up. I gave it about 3 minutes to cool down, and then it started but RPMS were up around 5k at idle. Once I got the bike home, I stripped it down again to sit.

    Obviously it was running lean - I believe it overheated, and I may have blown a head gasket. But, I realized yesterday that the throttle cable was too tight, and that was holding the throttle open - I adjusted that and it helped quite a bit.

    With the throttle cable adjusted, header wraps off, and air filters restricted a bit -
    - now the bike starts, runs, but bogs down with throttle, and if I close the throttle completely, it eventually dies.

    I'm currently waiting for new carb boots because I did a test with starter fluid and know I've got a vaccum leak there. Is there anywhere else I should be looking for a vaccum leak?

    I've ordered a new head gasket - I think mine may be blown, but I wanted to test everything else before I do a full top end rebuild. Should I be looking at the top end now, or for anything else, based on the problems I've described? Initially I knew the bike would run lean, but now isn't bogging down a sign of running rich?

    Any advice or thoughts is greatly appreciated!

    the bike:
    file5.jpg

    #2
    Hope you enjoy your project.

    If you upload your photos to flickr or similar you can then post the IMG code here and they will show up in high definition. A much more enjoyable visual experience compared to forum photos.

    Good luck
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      If the compression is good, the head gasket is probably okay; they rarely go. The valves WILL need to be checked/adjusted as soon as possible as they wear towards tight and then burn and cause erratic running. The carb boots may be okay, but the o rings on their mounting flange should be replaced as they go flat and leak with the heat. Getting the boot screws off can be a challenge and replacing them with socket heads is a good plan. I'd check the charging voltage with a voltmeter soon, as the stock regulators can go 'high' and fry your battery and other expensive bits. The good news is that 450s are pretty tough and reliable if you give them a chance.

      The leak on the left side is usually either the gasket for the alternator cover or the seal on the clutch pushrod - both pretty cheap and easy to fix.

      Welcome aboard. There's also a twin specific forum that will get you quicker access to 450 specific knowledge.
      '82 GS450T

      Comment


        #4
        Thank Y'all for the advice! I'm working on a valve adjustment - only problem is I haven't been able to figure out how to get the damn engine out of the frame. The manual I've got has just super blurry black and white pictures, so I can't target the specific things I need to disassemble. But, I think that project is going to come in a few weeks when I'm not getting hypothermia in my garage up in Michigan!

        Updates:

        My initial hopes for the exhaust were to polish and restore the finish on them once I got all the rust off, but unfortunately under the rust I found a good amount of deep scratches that were beyond salvaging. So - I decided to paint the headers and exhaust black, which I think will actually be a good look.

        I took VHT primer and header paint (both resistant to 2000 degrees) and laid down a few coats per the directions. Unfortunately, I think it was too humid, and so I had a few streaks of black that will need touch up. I'm curious if anyone has used VHT? The directions on the can say to wait 7 days from the initial coating to do any touch ups, or it will peel. My question is, if I cure the paint before those 7 days, can I sand and touch up and then just re-cure it and clear coat? Or, is that 7 days required no matter what - the can isn't too clear, nor is the VHT website.

        I also did some good work on a custom triple tree. The stock one was just so bulky, and with clip-ons, I didn't need the handlebar brackets anymore. But, instead of buying one custom fabricated for $250+, I decided to get a replacement for $20 on ebay and take an angle grinder too it. I cut off the handlebar brackets, and re-shaped it just a tiny bit to at the least clean it up, and then filled in the holes the bracket left with liquid aluminum. After a good amount of grinding and sanding, the whole thing is a flat surface that I'm planning on just painting a satin black and clear coating.

        Hopefully this is a better picture dump:

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