1982 Suzuki GS450TXZ - Shelby Edition =)

[Shelby]

@Grimly Crap. I didn't know there would be a charging system heat issue with these new LEDs.
Those SH-775 (Polaris) or the Compu-Fire 3 Phase regulators are expensive =(
I've spent WELL over my budget this season just getting my bike road-worthy. I certainly don't want to nuke my stator though.
Is there any other way around this potential heat issue? Resistors? Add more lights to even out the load... i don't know. =\

[Grimly]

The cheapest and simplest way is to restore the tungsten filament headlight for now. Leave the LED headlight until you get a series reg/rec.
Another way is keep what you've got and put an auxiliary full-time running lamp on the front, but it (in combination with the LED) must be up at 55W or so. Assuming the LED is 25 to 30W, you can get away with a 30W tungsten lamp. They are to be found cheaply enough in any car breaking yard, just look for fog and/or spotlamps.
The normal fog/spot light bulb is 55W, but you can get lower power versions of those. Just make sure that aux light is on all the time, along with the headlamp.

[Shelby]

Thank you very much Grimly!
Excellent suggestions.
I'll be sure to post my final solution in the next few days.
Below is a pic of my new LED headlight bulb.
20190719_211956.jpg

[Shelby]

Time-lapse of seat fiberglass work


WARNING!!! REALLY LONG VIDEO!!!

[Shelby]

Another way is keep what you've got and put an auxiliary full-time running lamp on the front, but it (in combination with the LED) must be up at 55W or so. Assuming the LED is 25 to 30W, you can get away with a 30W tungsten lamp. ... Just make sure that aux light is on all the time, along with the headlamp.

I am just now getting back to wiring the lights on my bike. I've been working on the paint and seat off an on through the summer. I already replaced most of the lighting with LED's as mentioned before. I didn't touch the gauge cluster lights yet, but i plan to. I figure those are very low wattage lights anyway.

GET TO THE POINT SHELBY!

Okay, as far as running (always on) lights go, I have the front headlight that draws between 27-30 watts. I also have rear brake lights that draw 3 watts. I am not counting signal lights. I will be adding in an auxiliary light to use up the remaining power generated by the stator.

My questions are:

• How much power is generated by the stator (i assume it varies at different RPMs. i just need an average number. is it about 60 watts?).
• Where, in the circuit, can i add the 30-ish watt auxiliary light? I would like to add it somewhere easily removable as i plan to install a proper series R/R next year.

I would like to add the aux light somewhere in the rear if possible. I will build a little enclosure (with a fan) to conceal the aux light as it will look nutty compared to the crisp LEDs.

Any tips?

[Grimly]

All I did was mount a 55W driving lamp to the front and use it as a daylight running lamp. It worked well for years and maintained the stator quite happily, as I was reluctant to shorten the life of my headlight bulb by daytime use.
The DRL was switched manually by me, and all was well until one day I forgot to switch it on.
You can guess what happened shortly thereafter...

To get around that problem, if I were doing it again, I'd probably wire it off a relay slaved to the ignition circuit, via a timer to delay on.
In your circumstance, you could simply wire it in parallel to the headlight, but a relay would be a better idea.
If you want to hide the light entirely (I don't see why, may as well make it useful) you could substitute a 3ohm 50W aluminium-clad power resistor, but you'd have to make sure it wasn't close to anything that would melt, and a heatsink would be advisable.
They're all over the place on ebay as Canbus load resistors now.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-50W-H7-LED-HID-HEADLIGHT-CANBUS-ERROR-FREE-CANCELLER-DECODER-LOAD-RESISTORS/254180180678

[Shelby]

Thanks for the info again Grimly. That's good food for thought!
With Christmas just around the corner, my wife was hounding me for gift ideas =)
I think i'll try to actually replace the OEM R/R with one of the suggested series R/R's.
Does anyone on this site have one to sell, or maybe has a current link to one of the Shindengen SH775 or Compu-Fire R/R's ?

[Shelby]

Read and digest...
https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...65#post1630965

Tip: until you get hold of a series r/r take that LED headlight out of circuit and re-fit a halogen bulb headlight. If you don't, your stator will die.
The old setup needs a load to keep it happy, without the load the older design of regulator will kill the stator.

So... after a few years of dormancy, I am FINALLY getting back to my GS450.
I ordered this R/R from a YouTuber named BrickHouseBuilds. He has a playlist on a complete GS450 rebuild. After chatting him up about my LED situation, he mentioned that he actually sells a DRR-S on his site. BJ (the youtuber) says it'll work perfectly with my GS450 and even be appropriate if I ever want to swap out my old battery for a Lithium, which I probably wont.

Here's a link to the R/R --> https://brickhousebuilds.com/product...ator-rectifier
Not bad for $84.50 shipped I figure.

What do you think Grimly? Is there a better or more appropriate R/R that I should get?

[Grimly]

That doesn't seem to be a series regulator - in fact, I'm 90% sure it's not.
THE upgrade around these parts is a series RR from Shindengen, the SH-775, as fitted to Polaris ATVs, SkiDoos, and some other things. There are plenty of them on ebay, but you have to be careful of the fakes. Generally speaking, if they've come off a Polaris RZR800, they're proper. There's also a guy selling them brand new, as Polaris have left them behind.
I believe this to be a genuine one...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224980349934

This one definitely is - observe the end markings...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/392496482363

DO NOT buy the new ones that are priced at $20 - $40, they're fakes.

[Shelby]

Hmmmm... Now you've got me thinking...
I've honestly never even looked at my stator (don't hate me, I just want to get the right parts before opening everything up).
I just figured a digital r/r that has "sensing" would be correct. Plus i believe he used this r/r in his GS450 project.
Here's a video of BJ installing this "DRR-S" on a test rig he made. Does his stator resemble mine?
I've already sent a message to the ebay seller on that first link you mentioned asking him for a model number on the end opposite of the plug or even just a picture of the other end.
If that one isn't the same as the 2nd link you mentioned, I may just buy the 2nd one and be done with it.

[Shelby]

Okay Grimly ,
I got a picture from the seller of the R/R you thought might be a Series type. Can you confirm?

[Shelby]

This pic is the one you (Grimly) said was for sure Series. I'll bid on the cheaper one immediately if confirmed.

[Grimly]

Yep, both of them are genuine SH775s.

[Shelby]

Okay Grimly,
I won the used SH-775 on eBay for $58.21 (not the worst price I guess).
Can you (or anyone) point me in a direction on how to wire it to my GS450? I can solder proficiently =)

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Of all of the topics covered on this forum, there has probably been more written about the GS's less-than-perfect charging system and how to fix it than any other topic, along with how to wire a SH775 R/R. Do some searching, read the charging system sorted thread linked in my signature if you like. It's pretty thorough. I would think that the twin bikes wiring is very similar to the fours. But before you get started, get a good wiring diagram and factory service manual, Clymers, or Haynes for your bike year/model. Look for those on BikeCliff's Website, also linked in my signature.

Ed Ness (Nessism)has done us all a favor and dumbed down the SH775 wiring for us.



The Triumph lead for the SH775 is item# T2500676 and is arguably the best method of connection to the RR, Save for the experts who use fancy potting goo from the aerospace industry. Just cut off the ends opposite the RR connections and wire as the above diagram shows.
http://www.adeptpowersports.com/oem-...gaAo5AEALw_wcB