1979 GS550E restoration

[Guest]

Ebay description said "not heard it run but engine turns, Box of bits with bike" And so I one the bid for £400.
I am proper chuffed. I am going to rebuild it to original spec.
It is a 1979 model, which means its an E model?

Here is the prioritized plan: (Feel free to advise on priorities)

1: clean everything
2: get engine running
3: strip down and get frame powder coated and engine painted e.t.c.
4: put it all together
5: wiring loom and new battery regulator e.t.c.
6: a fair way into the future and I am not worried yet about this stage.

https://imgur.com/gallery/BVyKuDh

[steveb922]

If it's a 1979 model, it's a 550 EN. However your photo shows CV carbs, which make it a 1980 (or later) model. This isn't unusual, as Suzuki got 'next year's' model into the showrooms in the autumn of the preceding year. So you can have a V5 with a first registration date in 1979, but have a 1980 model bike. So the likelihood is that you have a 550ET. If you'd like more input, post more pics. There were a few differences between the 79 and 80 models.

[Chargeblender]

Oh Man!!!! Those are all the photos I have of it at the minute. This was unexpected. But very helpful, what kind of pictures would you need to be able to identify the year and therefore the model of the bike?
Just checked my Haynes manual and it covers models from 1977-1982 So hopefully its no later than that!!!

[steveb922]

Just a side-on picture would do. Or - does it have a tail fairing? Can you describe the shape of the rear light? And, just to be certain it's an E (as there were also L and T models), is the front wheel spindle mounted at the front of the forks, or directly through them?

It won't be later than 82, as the 16-valve engine was introduced in 83. Your Haynes manual will cover it. For a genuine Suzuki manual, go here: https://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage..._77-82_all.pdf

[Chargeblender]

baby steps

I am certain it is a 1980 model.
So I got my V5 back the other day, and it says it war first registered in 1979 but it is an 550ET model. And from what has been said on here @steveb922. Anyway I have started the descembly of the bike. I want to get the engine running. So for me to do that I need a good fuel line and air line and electrical system set up to the basic parts. Theres 3 steps there.
1)Fuel/Oil
2)Air
3)Electrics
I have started on step 1 this afternoon (Until my son dropped a mirror on his foot kind of stalled progression)
I want to get rid of all the dents somehow, I have apple cider vinegar for the rust inside the tank and am going to sort the holes out with POR15 and to give the insides a good finish.






I want to get rid of all the dents somehow, I have apple cider vinegar for the rust inside the tank and am going to sort the holes out with POR15 and to give the insides a good finish.

Also how do I get the badges back on?
Anyways hope it wasnt too boring a post.

[steveb922]

I've just looked at some of your other photos - you have a 550LT. That's the 'US Custom' style model. Not quite as common over here as the 550E, but easier to restore in some respects.

[Rust_to_Redemption]

I want to get rid of all the dents somehow, I have apple cider vinegar for the rust inside the tank and am going to sort the holes out with POR15 and to give the insides a good finish.

Also how do I get the badges back on?
Anyways hope it wasnt too boring a post.

Easiest way I've found for fixing dents is automotive body filler and lots of sanding.

As for the badges, there should be two screw holes in the "side strips", but it looks like someone has painted over yours/filled them in. You'll have to locate them, then remove the paint/filler. I would use a hand drill + bit to get the gunk out of the screw hole, enough to get a tap in it, then tap the threads to clean those up. Someone more knowledgeable than me might chime in with what the specs of the thread are so you can tap it correctly.


Looks like quite a project on the whole. If I were you, I would do minimal work until I knew for certain that the motor was good. First thing I would do is hook up a good battery and check for spark. If you have spark, check to make sure you have oil in it, and if you do, I would squirt some 2 stroke fuel (little extra lubrication) into each of the spark plug holes, then try turning it over several times. If it runs, great you can proceed knowing that the engine will work. If it doesn't run, you didn't spend a bunch of time (or money) on a bike that doesn't run. Just my 2c.

[Steve]

Congrats, nice find.

Your priorities are not bad, but need to be expanded a bit.

2. get engine running
2a. Clean and rebuild carbs. Do NOT use "carb rebuild kits". Get an o-ring kit from cycleorings.com.
2b. Check valve clearances.
2c. Check electrical connections, clean all connectors.

4. put it all together
4a. Install new tyres (and tubes). Tread might look decent, but check date codes.
4b. Flush brake fluid. Rebuild master cylinder(s) if necessary.
4c. Clean and grease rear brake lever pivot.
4d. Install fresh brake pads

Plenty more, but those are the basics that will allow a safe test ride.

[Chargeblender]

Apple Cider Vinegar

I descided to go for the apple cider vinegar option. I have 10 and a bit litres in the tank with a bunch of nuts and bolts to help knock the rust off.
Its been in there for about 28 hours so far. A few more days and I think I will open it up to have a look, filter the vinegar and if its still bad, pop it back in.




While the vinegar is doing its work, I thought I might remove a few more pieces of bike. My goal is to get the engine out so I can open up the Carbs (as my prioritories list has been altered). So Ill get them off once the engine is on the bench.
Donor bikes are annoying to work on though. As I strip bits off I notice more bits missing:

[steveb922]

I can probably find a spare collar here if you need one. Check the threads on that cylinder when you have a minute - there might be a reason why the PO omitted it.......

[Steve]

My goal is to get the engine out so I can open up the Carbs (as my prioritories list has been altered). So Ill get them off once the engine is on the bench.

Good luck with that concept.

The carbs are hard enough to get off as it is, I can't imagine getting the engine out with the carbs in place.

Loosen the clamps on both sides of the carbs. Slide the airbox back. You can pop the plastic fender liner loose to slide the airbox back an additional half inch or so. Slide the carbs out the right side, then finish removing the airbox manifold. NOW you will have a bit more room to remove the engine.

Oh, were you removing the engine to gain access to the carbs? No need for that, see above.

.

[Chargeblender]

Result of apple cider vinegar

The tips and knowledge from the replies is amazing, I am chuffed about all the advice I am getting. Thanks a lot.....

(Brown nosing session over)

I am really chuffed with the result of the apple cider vinegar been swirling around for a few days.
Next step in the tank saga is to coat the insides. I have heard of good results with a red oxide type coating, or the POR15 stuff, which seems to be plastered all over youtube.

[Chargeblender]

The fuel tank is all ready to get lined inside. I have chosen to use KBS-coatings Gold Standard - https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer.html.

The tank is done, I know what I need to do with that to get complete.

SO.... I am going to move onto the wiring.. Im still on with doing the basics for now to just get the engine running.

I opened up the cover to reveal the contact points and.....The curse of buying a donor bike!!!!

More parts needed!

[steveb922]

Might be worth upgrading to electronic ignition. Budget around £120 and forget about points and condensers.

[zuluwiz]

Be very careful removing the bolts holding the pipe on the head. It's real easy to break them off, then you have another problem to fix. (Ask me how I know about this.) There are several threads here about removing the bolts without breaking them, and several more about getting the broken bolts out if you happen to be unlucky. Preparation counts in this one!