My Gs850 project bike

[alke46]

Also subscribed to this thread.

[BlackThunder]

Fixed the melted connector with a replacement from vintageconnectors.com, I also bought their terminal extraction tool. the rest of the carb/tank and electrical parts will be coming in this week.
Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

[2BRacing]

Fixed the melted connector with a replacement from vintageconnectors.com, I also bought their terminal extraction tool. the rest of the carb/tank and electrical parts will be coming in this week.
Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Just a heads-up here: the terminals of the lower connector plug in your photo do not seem to be seated deeply enough inside the connector yet. The metal crimp around the insulation of the wires should not be sticking out of the plastic connector.

[BlackThunder]

Thanks for noticing. I was able to seat them a little deeper. Likely in the near future Ill be getting the terminal crimp tool and just replace them, because this particular connection some terminals were a little damaged and not seating easily for me.

Just a heads-up here: the terminals of the lower connector plug in your photo do not seem to be seated deeply enough inside the connector yet. The metal crimp around the insulation of the wires should not be sticking out of the plastic connector.

[BlackThunder]

Just about ready to have my friend help me solder this and get it installed. Any tips or link to a page that might be useful?

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

[Steve]

It's not all that hard to install. Two screws on the left side of the battery box hold the solenoid/fusebox plate to the battery box. Remove those, the plate will lift off the battery box. Remove the turn signal flasher and controller from the right side of the battery box. A few more bolts will release the battery box from the frame, disconnect the R/R leads and lift the battery box out. Remove the R/R from the bottom of the battery box, install the SHJ775 in its place. Face the connectors to the left side. Re-install, re-connect, ride.

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[fastbysuzuki]

Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

[BlackThunder]

Thanks for clearing the brown/ black wires for me, I was confused about them.

Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

[Big T]

Vintage Connections will have those connectors, plus the tool to swap out the wires

[BlackThunder]

Just to make clear you’re talking about the white connector I had that melted? You’re not talking about the sh755 wires, because from what I’m getting 1. Solder the three wires going to Stator 2. Crimp eyelet terminal to black wire(ground) for single point ground 3. Crimp bullet connector on brown wire(power) and connect to red wire in wiring harness.

Vintage Connections will have those connectors, plus the tool to swap out the wires

[Steve]

Solder the stator wires if you must, but be aware that you will be cussing yourself for doing it ifyou ever have to remove the stator. A 3-pin connector works much better.

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[Phred]

Z1 Enterprises for electrical connections as well. Shipping is fast. They are online. For seat covers try Pitreplica. I have an L as well and the seat cover that I got from them worked out really well. Even comes with the grommet lock and Suzuki embossing.

[fastbysuzuki]

Solder the stator wires if you must, but be aware that you will be cussing yourself for doing it ifyou ever have to remove the stator. A 3-pin connector works much better.

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Surely soldering both stator and the rectifier wires would not be a problem as he is using the triumph link lead that has connectors why would he need any more connectors?

[BlackThunder]

What are the chances of my local dealer having that tiny washer from the carburetor pilot screw in stock?

[fastbysuzuki]

What are the chances of my local dealer having that tiny washer from the carburetor pilot screw in stock?

i doubt a local dealer has them unless your local to something like Z1 enterprises or parts outlaw.

are these what you are looking for http://www.cycleorings.com/washers.html