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1982 Suzuki GS850 - Project Malice
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Able to get this thing rideable. Took it for a test spin on two of the neighborhood roads to make sure its shifting through (at least three) gears and there aren't any funny vibrations or issues I can't feel when its just sitting in the garage. Anyway, heres a YouTube video of the tail and tail light I made. I have to relearn the flicker app to upload more than one photo, but I have attached a photo of what the front end looks like.
IMG_20200510_101926_574.jpg
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Thought I'd put the before and after pics next to each other. That's a very interesting look.
Originally posted by blurred View PostAble to get this thing rideable. Took it for a test spin on two of the neighborhood roads to make sure its shifting through (at least three) gears and there aren't any funny vibrations or issues I can't feel when its just sitting in the garage. Anyway, heres a YouTube video of the tail and tail light I made. I have to relearn the flicker app to upload more than one photo, but I have attached a photo of what the front end looks like.
Roger
'83 GS850G Daily rider
'82 GS1100GK Work in (slow) progress
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Originally posted by blurred View PostIt's been too cold for me to go sit in the garage so I was able to pull the bike into the house after selling the dining room table lol..
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Please put the original year and model in your signature.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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Originally posted by blurred View Post... I have to relearn the flicker app to upload more than one photo, ...
Comment: you can only upload one photo per post, but if you copy the IMG tag on Flicker and paste it here, you can LINK up to 10 per post.
Question: in your brake light video (nice-looking light, by the way ) there is something vertical above the light that also looks like tail/brake light. Is that just a reflection or is there actually a different segment of the light?
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Originally posted by Burque73 View PostThought I'd put the before and after pics next to each other. That's a very interesting look.
Originally posted by Rob S. View PostI'm not crazy about exhaust tape, and I'd probably remove the engine guards as well, but I thoroughly approve of your workspace. Here's an idea: put the table in the garage. See how it likes the cold and dark.
Please put the original year and model in your signature.
Originally posted by Steve View PostA comment and a question.
Comment: you can only upload one photo per post, but if you copy the IMG tag on Flicker and paste it here, you can LINK up to 10 per post.
Question: in your brake light video (nice-looking light, by the way ) there is something vertical above the light that also looks like tail/brake light. Is that just a reflection or is there actually a different segment of the light?
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For the brake light, the undertail light is there, and designed to light up the road when I hit it. Plus side is that it is visible from behind the bike with the angle of the tail. However, I "ghosted" a light into the top tail so that it's only visible when I turn the bike on and it's really bright when I hit the brake. This way, if anyone in a car wants to say they couldn't see my brake light, well, I have this bright ass strip on the top center shining at your face...
Really, it was in the back of my mind as a secondary option. Once I got the undertail built, I didn't like how it wasn't crazy visible (was also using a sub-par power source) when standing behind the bike from 20 feet. Because function and safety are uppermost in my mind (though the bike doesn't look it) I decided to cut this strip in there.
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And, because I am on a computer right now, I can update this in the proper manner. This is going to be long and a bit haphazard. And keep in mind that safety, visibility, and all those aspects that come with responsible riding are in fact paramount in my mind, even though it doesn't necessarily look like it with the parts.
With the style that I am after, I lowered the bike 2" front and rear. I lowered the front by raising the forks in the triple tree and found an 11" Harley shock that I was able to change out the crush sleeves for to drop the back end. Due to the information I have received here, I understand these do not like changes in the angles of the shaft drive set up. Upon going for a spin around the neighborhood (no more than 20mph), I didn't notice or hear any vibrations or grumblings with the drive-line, but fully plan to inspect much closer with a stagnant rolling setup (like a dyno, if not a dyno machine) prior to actually getting this thing on the road for real riding.
**Disclaimer** I understand this changes the aspects of riding this and it's handling, but I am not concerned as I do not know those original aspects. With the shift in riding position and all the other stuff that I have altered, I will be learning this bike's habits just as you would hopping on any new bike. With that said, IF i do not like the way it rides (too stiff/bouncy, not enough clearance for daily riding, or unsafe) then the fix is as easy as loosening a few bolts and swapping the original Konis back on there (which I kept).
So, the riding position and height are good at this point. I can sit on the seat and place both feet fully on the ground and the bike does not sag enough to concern me when I have all my weight on it. Obviously larger bumps may change my mind as that's more force than I am able to create in the garage.
PSX_20200409_211140 by boyd smith, on Flickr
Pulled it out to make sure it would move on it's own, and it does. It's definitely not as loud as I thought it would be. This three twists around the culdasac and back in the garage gave me the needed motivation to keep chugging lol. Click it, it's a video.
received_272167087125051 by boyd smith, on Flickr
A little further back in time, the tail was built with the original seat pan (sans rusted section), pieces of an old bumper I had laying around in the garage, and an old, broken trash can that give me the curve I was wanting. Then, once pieced together, I went to work with fiberglass and my creativity.
20200407_200325 by boyd smith, on Flickr
20200407_200316 by boyd smith, on Flickr
2020-05-24_11-42-14 by boyd smith, on Flickr
And the video... click to watch the lights at work
VID_59791224_095943_132 by boyd smith, on Flickr
I have to re-work the actual seat mount as it sits about an inch too high, but that's an easy fix.
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Now on to the paint work. I decided I wanted to do a gunmetal and bronze/rose gold color scheme, while taking in mind the beat up look I was going for. So, with the glass work I made sure I didn't sand all the imperfections out of the fiberglass so it looked like it was nicked and beat up, though solid. Worked great with the "kitty hair" I used instead of using fiberglass mat/cloth.
20200503_131528 by boyd smith, on Flickr
20200503_131759 by boyd smith, on Flickr
20200503_131552 by boyd smith, on Flickr
20200503_131533 by boyd smith, on Flickr
20200503_131542 by boyd smith, on Flickr
Then I was able to wrap the seat. Not crazy pretty, but it fits the bike. And the belt doesn't bother the nether regions at all. Don't even feel it honestly. That could change with a longer ride, of course.
20200509_135926 by boyd smith, on Flickr
I fashioned up a "heat shield" that gave the exhaust the tapered look so I could run the stock tip again. This was built from a random bit of tin left over from an old drip pan I had burried in the back of the garage. You can see the final look in the current photos below, but it's the closest photo I have of it.
[20200412_191825 by boyd smith, on Flickr
I cut up the old speedometer mount to get rid of the rusted bits and used what I could to mount the new speedo/tach. This was a bit of a pain to figure out, but there's lots of people that got it working online so now it functions as it should. Still need to verify the tach setup. I hooked it to a white/red wire coming out of the engine instead of off the starter and it sounds right, just need to confirm with a cable driven assembly (once I find one) since my original wound up useless. Also, the fuel is off, though I suspect the internal tank sensor to need replacement. And finally, still need to make a bracket for the speed sensor and extend the gear wires to the connection point.
20200504_173355 by boyd smith, on Flickr
Next, the headlight(s). I found these mounts and they are engineered masterpieces. They look freaking awesome and are really sturdy. While the jury is still out on how well they hold up, I couldn't budge the headlight with them tightened. https://www.speedmotoco.com/Motorcyc...p/hinged-1.htm
20200506_202310 by boyd smith, on Flickr
The headlight bucket is an old bucket from a classic BMW car, which I made some mounts and aged a bit. The secondary light is an offroad/driving light that I found online with good reviews. The headlights is something I found off Amazon with, again, good reviews. I haven't actually pulled this out at night to see what it does, but I did blind myself once. lol. May wind up laying some yellow laminex over the headlight, but I'll figure that out later. Also, I call this the Reverse Forest Whitaker setup. And, the little wind screen was made with some paper, a random bucket I had, then cut up the rest of the tin drip pan that I had left over and shaped. Still plan to rivet another piece on tip to give it a little more character, though I doubt I will paint it after looking at it.
2020-05-24_11-41-40 by boyd smith, on Flickr
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And I believe we are all caught up. This is as the bike sits today.
20200510_101559 by boyd smith, on Flickr
I need to finish up the above mentioned things, along with the rear turn signals (broke one) and then all the safety stuff (fork fluid/pressure, brake pad checks, change oil, proper clean of the cards) before this is road safe, but it's getting there. Side panel covers will be modified since the tabs are broke on the back anyway, so not work saving unless someone wants to trade me.
All the parts I pulled went to a good home nearby where they will live again on another bike. And that's all I can think to put in here at this point. We are about ready to move back to Tennessee, so that's the next phase of this; transition to storage, then a new garage.
Oh! and my hauler. Going to see how this works being loaded on the back of the Tahoe, which will be loaded on the back of a uhaul... Will be a good test of strength, though all my research on the carrier (black widow deluxe) and the Tahoe's hitch/ratings.... And, knowing this bike is basically dry and a bunch of parts removed, it's under the 600lb mark. And don't mind the Tahoe's rear suspension, I will finalize the helper bag setup I have when I get to Tennessee so that I can actually drive around with this thing back there instead of getting a trailer, which I don't think I will have room for at the new place.
20200523_125222 by boyd smith, on Flickr
20200523_125237 by boyd smith, on Flickr
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Good luck with that hauler.
Yeah, your hitch might be rated for 500 pounds, but that is the weight applied to a ball that is about 12 inches away from the end of the receiver tube. You are applying a lot more weight a lot farther out, so you will likely have 800-1000 pounds of weight twisting on that receiver tube.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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@steve You raise quite a good point. And with that, found a class 5 hitch that will fully support this thing with about anything I throw at it, though the hauler wouldn't like that lol.
Fortunately this is being hauled on something being towed. Plan to strap the tahoe down nice and tight, and ill get this thing braced so the weight isn't fully on the hitch.
Thats why I love these forums versus Facebook.
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Nicely done. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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