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82 GS1100E Mr Turbo Rebuild

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  • Nessism
    replied
    Hope you are planning to video the first start! Can't wait to hear this bad boy in action!

    Leave a comment:


  • oldGSfan
    replied
    Originally posted by TeamDar View Post
    The angle is fine. On drag bikes using this system with an S&S super B carburetor we would rotate them more than that. The g-force of acceleration throws the fuel rearward anyway.
    Thanks hope so. I have an S&S super B long one
    That needs rebuild but heard mikuni is very good.

    Leave a comment:


  • TeamDar
    replied
    The angle is fine. On drag bikes using this system with an S&S super B carburetor we would rotate them more than that. The g-force of acceleration throws the fuel rearward anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • 93Bandit
    replied
    Originally posted by Spyder View Post
    If you are running a fuel pump, I don't think the angle will be a problem.

    I am curious. How does this setup work? Is the turbo pulling from the carb? Or blowing through it? I have never seen one that pulls from the carb...
    The Mr. Turbo kit is a pull through setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spyder
    replied
    If you are running a fuel pump, I don't think the angle will be a problem.

    I am curious. How does this setup work? Is the turbo pulling from the carb? Or blowing through it? I have never seen one that pulls from the carb...

    Leave a comment:


  • oldGSfan
    replied
    The Mikuni arrived but there's a bit of a turd in the punch bowl, because with it seated fully in the rubber mount to the turbo, I can't get the carb level . It was really tough to know this by dimensions. I don't know if this will be a problem, i'll run a fuel pump so it won't run dry, and most carbs tolerate angles to some degree, especially dirt bike ones.

    Other than trying it as-is, my options seem to be:

    1) Angle it a bit with a fabricated adapter so that it clears the frame in the back. I've seen this on CB750s with the kit, it's a curved intake manifold. Then the air filter housing won't align with the bike unless I have another angled adapter on it. I can angle it using just the rubber mount, it is solid but is a bit of a hack and isn't on like it should be, so I don't think that's a good idea.

    2) get a deeper float bowl for $100

    Leave a comment:


  • Spyder
    replied
    I like the oil cooler cover just the way it is. A little bling is great in the right places. Let it ride for a while, see if it grows on ya. If it doesn't, take it off and paint (or powder coat) it. Bike is looking great.

    Leave a comment:


  • 93Bandit
    replied
    Originally posted by oldGSfan View Post
    Yeah I hear ya. Maybe have my friend powder coat it black or just paint it, but still use the piece, because the side has bunch of holes that don't look so good to me.
    Don't change it on my account though, if you like it. I'm just a stranger on the inter-webs.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldGSfan
    replied
    Yeah I hear ya. Maybe have my friend powder coat it black or just paint it, but still use the piece, because the side has bunch of holes that don't look so good to me.

    Originally posted by 93Bandit View Post
    Idk how I feel about the polished aluminum on the oil cooler. It seems a little out of place, being next to the black frame. Not awful, but probably not a look I'd be happy with.

    Leave a comment:


  • 93Bandit
    replied
    Idk how I feel about the polished aluminum on the oil cooler. It seems a little out of place, being next to the black frame. Not awful, but probably not a look I'd be happy with.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldGSfan
    replied
    Agree that's where I'll look first

    This morning, planning for Sedona to mountain bike, I tackled the Grand Cherokee wiring on the 7 pin connector. I bought an OEM hitch and 4 pin / 7 pin connector unit, and paid the dealer to program it. I didn't have them prove to me it was working, and later I found out the left signal was not working. I checked the Airstream with a battery source and looked at diagrams, all was correct. I had them check when I took it in for the umpteenth emissions/electronics recall (great vehicle otherwise...) and they told me it wasn't the module/electronics. Dang. So I jumpered from the main signal housing as a patch, and just tested it out OK.



    Originally posted by dorkburger View Post
    Regarding the lights, it sounds like you may have some grounds not grounding.
    I don't recall either whether the front indicators are running lights or not either. The easy tell would be checking if they are single or dual filament bulbs.
    Last edited by oldGSfan; 05-18-2020, 05:14 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • dorkburger
    replied
    Regarding the lights, it sounds like you may have some grounds not grounding.
    I don't recall either whether the front indicators are running lights or not either. The easy tell would be checking if they are single or dual filament bulbs.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldGSfan
    replied
    Update - the Mikuni HSR42 will arrive today, it's been a long wait, it was only 25 miles from me for a week, sort of frustrating but I understand it's low priority.

    I got a new Yuasa maintenance free battery and am checking the electrics. There are some minor lighting gremlins to explore, will figure it out. All the check lights don't go on (turn, stop, neutral don't light up) and the gear indicator stays at 0. Turn signals go on and stay on, no flashing, and the tail light goes out when front lever is activated. I believe the turn signals should light up as running lights, can't remember. Hopefully it's just flasher/ground/bulb related, and not some control unit (though I have a spare to try). Horn and headlight work fine, had to clean and adjust the horn.

    The engine turns over freely (plugs out) on the button. I had put a capful of oil in each cylinder and tested rotation with a wrench a month ago. It spins with no problem by the starter.

    I got the EPM wheels back and primed the rear, ready for top coat but rainy today. I was going to powder coat but the front's magnesium and nobody wants to handle it, can't blame them. I've heard some horror stories. Paint will be fine, and easy to change if I don't like the color. I still have to sand and fill pits on the front.

    I put the clutch cable on and I can tell there are some heavy duty springs installed, it's a workout!

    Other than that, I'm working on fixing one of the throttle cables, making a new solder end because the curved plastic piece that attaches the cable to the twist grip was broken, and since I have a spare I can fix rather than replace.


    I tried a little custom touch, a polished aluminum plate on the oil cooler, jury still out if it stays or goes. What do you think? No offence taken if you tell me it's crap . It's just hot glued on to have a look.



    Leave a comment:


  • oldGSfan
    replied
    Thanks - didn't take any other way. I think mine actually has a functional original stator but it only got ridden 1 week a year, 2K miles total.


    Originally posted by dorkburger View Post
    Good morning,
    I was referring to old school technique that young 4 wheel disc guys would not necessarily know.
    As far as age, its pretty much a given that most here are of the age that they enjoyed these old bikes when they were new and had functional original stators....
    That Willys and Airstream are awesome.

    Leave a comment:


  • 93Bandit
    replied
    My first car had drums all the way around, 1959 Buick Invicta. That was the first thing I had to do to it once it was home. New brake cylinders, flex lines and shoes all the way around.

    Leave a comment:

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