82 GS1100E Mr Turbo Rebuild

[oldGSfan]

That's exactly it, just these two points.

oldgsfan,

I am curious as to what supports the turbocharger when it is installed. I can't see anything that supports it, so I assume it is held up by the mid pipe connecting the header to the turbo and by the rubber coupler fastening the compressor outlet to the intake manifold.

[Longitudinal]

oldgsfan,

I am curious as to what supports the turbocharger when it is installed. I can't see anything that supports it, so I assume it is held up by the mid pipe connecting the header to the turbo and by the rubber coupler fastening the compressor outlet to the intake manifold.

[oldGSfan]

Yep Rich, went through and verified connections, cleaned and used dielectric grease, etc. After that still the issue so I got a generic 3 pole solenoid from O'Reilly and it's working. Will be out for a ride soon, it's finally time!

Edit: First ride was great, it really is sweet on the road, the suspension and brakes did their thing - very comfortable and set up pretty well. The motor pulled everywhere and is docile like stock at lower RPM, idles well. Gearbox is notchy, as I remember this may be improper linkage adjustment perhaps. I dipped into the turbo only 3 or 4 times in 3rd and it was very strong, I didn't push it too far as the rest of the bike is so fresh. But I have leaks to fix, ugh, including head gasket and/or some seal in upper end. The gear indicator isn't working, the temp maxed at 215 or so, it's very hot here today. All in all I am really happy with how it rides, but should have torn the motor down for gaskets when it was out. Oh well, I can deal with that.

I'd look for a corroded/bad connection where the g/y solenoid signal wire connects to the harness, and clean/verify good contact inside the start button/run switch housing/RH switch assembly. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know. I'm certain I've read that the solenoid can be replaced with a pretty generic one of similar size from the local Tractor Supply. It's nothing special.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I'd look for a corroded/bad connection where the g/y solenoid signal wire connects to the harness, and clean/verify good contact inside the start button/run switch housing/RH switch assembly. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know. I'm certain I've read that the solenoid can be replaced with a pretty generic one of similar size from the local Tractor Supply. It's nothing special.

[oldGSfan]

Charged the battery (bought a Yuasa in May '20) back to full voltage - measured 12.66, and tried a quick test this morning on the button - click only. Tested ground to the solenoid body and it's OK. When engaged, I got full voltage at the solenoid's output to starter terminal while the start button was pressed. Next I bridged the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver and the starter turned. Tried by the button again, and it now works. I expect further problems and wonder if the solenoid is on the way out.

The battery seems OK but in the few months I had it has lost a charge on its own, just sitting and wired up on the bike . I tested for a drain on it and found none, may try again. Hope it's OK because it's an Amazon purchase and I'm past the return window of 60 days - Yuasa warranty is 12 months but says to contact seller, and there's no option on Amazon to do that. Lesson learned.

[oldGSfan]

Had a try at going for a first ride but no joy. I think I've got some grounding issues to look at, and possibly something is draining my battery too. The starter tried its best but didn't work long enough to start the bike. Eventually I just got 'click'. I think I flooded it with a couple squirts of the throttle. Last frustrating thing is the prime position on my brand new Suzuki petcock ($$$) doesn't work. I took off the gas tank to hoist the bike by the frame to fit the front wheel and maybe I pulled a wire off the coil as well, so it'll be a bit of a session in the morning to set things right. I don't think the carb bowl would evaporate its fuel in a week but it would be good to just prime it, sheesh. I used a hand vacuum pump again to prime it (if needed), as I don't feel like diving into the petcock issue just yet.

[Rob S.]

This was my first introduction to Norton, in the first Cycle World I ever bought:
image.jpg

I was 14, and something about the handlebars (and the 'heated' backrest) caught my eye. The November, 1971 issue had a cover article about the Yamaha 650 twin, but also contained pre road test articles about the new Kaw 750 triple and the 1000cc Sportster. Glad I still have it.

[oldGSfan]

Still waiting on the tire, dang that shop, I shoulda known, too busy and slow turnaround.

That engine is from the early 60's 750cc Atlas, and later used in the Commando. The N15CS was a bastard child, it's a hybrid of a Matchless frame and Norton motor. No 'featherbed' for this one. Seems to be more appreciated now than way back when. They made about 2500 of them from 6. Good article here:

https://www.bike-urious.com/1967-norton-n15cs/

I've seen a few P11's at shows over the years, which IMO looks a bit better with a different and more exposed frame. Same tank and engine. This was a hybrid with a Matchless, same bike as the G15CS.

For someone with your skills, that's practically turnkey! But I'm not familiar with Norton nomenclature. Is that an 850 Commando, or too early for that?

Don't think you can distract us with that beautiful Norton paint. We're still waiting to see and HEAR Mr. Turbo.

[Rob S.]

For someone with your skills, that's practically turnkey! But I'm not familiar with Norton nomenclature. Is that an 850 Commando, or too early for that?

Don't think you can distract us with that beautiful Norton paint. We're still waiting to see and HEAR Mr. Turbo.

[oldGSfan]

OK I'm sidetracking my own build thread but WTH. This is the Norton. I am not sure what instrument housing it is in the last picture, but not a N15CS. May make a good Halloween mask.

[oldGSfan]

Hey Steve - yeah, hard to resist a deal. My son keeps finding them. It's a '66. He also found me the two free Goldwings with a sidecar that I sold for $1300.

You better not stop surfing if you keep finding deals like that. Wow.
That twin screw oil tank is worth more than your entry point. A '67?

[steve murdoch]

You better not stop surfing if you keep finding deals like that. Wow.
That twin screw oil tank is worth more than your entry point. A '67?

[oldGSfan]

I got lucky again today, $150 for a Norton N15CS (like P11) that has new painted gas and oil tank what appears to be all the parts plus spares. I have to stop looking at craigslist, filling up my garage to the brim!

[oldGSfan]

I'm down to a handful of things on my to-do list.

- Forks are way too mushy, they are Progressives. I put in a 1.5" spacer, probably temporarily, will see how it feels. I will likely get a set of Sonics, need to figure out the right rate for my 215 lbs.
- The seat is being sewed up, found an upholstery place that agreed to stitch a patch into the back of it, hope it comes out OK. Then I'll either have him re-staple it or do myself, seems like a standard heavy duty staple gun will work if I can find the short staples.
- EBC brake pads on order. I had what I think were new take-off 'Tokico' ones that I put on for temp purposes, not gonna trust 38 year old pads.
- Tire swap (in progress) to the 100/90-18 front.
- Get a proper rivet type master link, last one I bought said rivet but wasn't and I had to use temporarily.

Oh I treated it to new original grips, they are quite nice if a bit pricey. The throttle comes with the plastic throttle which has two holes for push/pull, which is great. The housing I have is not original, but the only thing really different is the orange rather than red on/off switch. I turned the brake caliper cap upside down as it mounts the mirror and I'm using Napoleon bar-ends.



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[oldGSfan]

Pistons are supposedly 6.5:1 and sleeved down, according to previous owner but I don't know the details beyond that. He was a rider not a builder, but all the stuff he told me checks out, not a BSer. I have a receipt from Don Vesco that says 'fit studs, ''valve job & port, 'cams timing drill cam to fit gear & tap', 'weld crank' and 'fit turbo'. Cam timing 25 btdc I think. A bit lumpy.

There's an Arias piston brochure in the stack of paperwork that goes down to 7.8:1, and that's 74mm not undersize, so it's a mystery until such time it gets opened up. The bad news is that there is a very slight leak in the top end (need to trace it with dye) that may force that, will see. I'm hoping it's the normal tach drive, I just got a new seal. Maybe it's a copper head gasket as those were/are used for race engines, and I understand they shrink with heat cycles.

The tuner sees a lot of bikes and he was crazy about it, saying it's really tight and strong. He's ridden it more than me at this point. He is brother-in-law of Wes Cooley Jr., and he spoke to his sister about it and she said that Wes's father was pals with Vesco and would s*&t himself to see the bike. I think the tuner is mixed up thinking it was Vesco's bike, it wasn't, his shop just did the work and it must have been a tight LSR community back then (as now I'm sure). Anyway it's a cool circle, he knew all the old-timers like Pops Y, Kerkers etc.

@Longitudinal - jet size 240, biggest they make for the HSR42.

That's much more than I was expecting. Are the pistons and/or rods non-stock? How is retarding of ignition managed?