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1981 GS1000G - cleanup
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Originally posted by 2BRacing View PostYou need part number 4 (rubber vibration dampers) in this diagram.
https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts...ea3b/handlebarGS1000G 1981
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Originally posted by Noreg View PostDo I need 5 (nut) too? But that makes sense, these mirrors got blurry at fairly low rpm.1981 GS850G "Blue Magic" (Bike Of The Month April 2009)
1981 GS1000G "Leo" (Bike Of The Month August 2023)
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Originally posted by 2BRacing View PostYes, you need part 5 (nut) also. The vibration damper mounts onto the perch where your mirrors are mounted now and is held tight with the nut. The mirror mounts into the vibration damper and is held tight with the "cone" shaped nut.
Now I am excited, I think I have all the knowhow to make this side respectable looking again. When the winter comes I will take the covers off, and polish them shiny and maybe clearcoat them. And refurbish the emblem (not sure how to make sure I dont paint the area around the emblem). But it seems pretty straightforward, mask the area around, spray paint the emblem, sand off the letters and c's.GS1000G 1981
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On the emblem, grow your thumbnail
Sand the black paint smooth, mask the cover, prep, prime and paint.
Check the "dry to the touch" time on the can. Once you reach that time, use your thumbnail to remove the paint on the letters and the circle. Start carefully and don't rush it.
Once you've done that, let the paint fully cure and sand the letters and circle with very fine sand paper on a block or disc1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Originally posted by Noreg View PostI don't think steel wool comes in grades here, altho I will take a look. The car store has a magical rust remover, people use it for boat stuff with chrome. I have chrome polish somewhere.
Painting them black, now after you said it, sounds like an obvious solution. Why didn't I think of that? Thank you, that is a cheap, no hassle solution to the problem.
Are you saying the exhaust or the paint would fail? I want to replace the exhaust with a 2-1 system. But not until next season (first season is always riskier). Repainting it occationally wouldn't be a problem.
I guess they have proper names, but they are always going to be ikea bolts to me. Ikea is what introduced me to them, and all my little wrenches for them are from ikea.
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Just read through your last page of posts and you were talking about how to re-finish your exhaust. Sanding chrome, no matter what grit, will never hold the paint. Chrome is such a hard surface, it really needs to be sand blasted. It will clean off the rust and prepare your pipes for VHT exhaust paint which will last for years if you prepare it correctly. I used this system for the Yosh pipe on mine and it looks great..9 years..later.1979 GS1000S,
1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'
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Originally posted by Kenny View PostJernia got that steel wool that Big T is talking about. FOund it on their website.
Originally posted by nvr2old View PostJust read through your last page of posts and you were talking about how to re-finish your exhaust. Sanding chrome, no matter what grit, will never hold the paint. Chrome is such a hard surface, it really needs to be sand blasted. It will clean off the rust and prepare your pipes for VHT exhaust paint which will last for years if you prepare it correctly. I used this system for the Yosh pipe on mine and it looks great..9 years..later.
Uncertain if I want the whole thing black. But thanks for the advice, Ill consider it.GS1000G 1981
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Ordered new brake rotor bolts, every single rubber thing for the secondary and final drive, new cylinder head gasket, new breather gasket, all the rubber for the tach wire. A new shiny round thing. New bolts for the torque arm. New levers. And some various other bits and pieces.GS1000G 1981
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Today my project was removing those rusty screws from the carbs tops and float bowls.
They seem to be somewhat random and some have very bad heads.
All but three was cooperative, the white stuff is ceramic paste (I use it for anti-seize). Going to buy some screw remover and see if that works... Considered dremelling a new head but worried that would go badly.
The float bowls luckily all cooperated. Some were missing those weird washers too.
I also got my Snell Braided Steel Brake lines today, so I might throw on the rear one (I just love bleeding brakes...).
The kit contained four brake lines (isnt there more?), a bunch of banjo bolts, copper washers and stuff.
The rear brake line has rubber things on it so it will stay in the metally things, which is nice. The length for the rear one seems to be spot on. Haven't checked the front though. Interestingly enough they are made in the UK.GS1000G 1981
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Originally posted by Noreg View PostToday my project was removing those rusty screws from the carbs tops and float bowls.
They seem to be somewhat random and some have very bad heads.
All but three was cooperative, the white stuff is ceramic paste (I use it for anti-seize). Going to buy some screw remover and see if that works... Considered dremelling a new head but worried that would go badly.
Usually works for me.
But first i try with a wire end cutter. Due to its design it has a super grip in the round head. Usually works for me.
wirecutter.jpg
Originally posted by Noreg View PostI also got my Snell Braided Steel Brake lines today, so I might throw on the rear one (I just love bleeding brakes...).
The kit contained four brake lines (isnt there more?)Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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Originally posted by Rijko View PostIf you take a small dremel disc, you can cut a new straight line in the damaged JIS head and try a impact wrench.
Usually works for me.
But first i try with a wire end cutter. Due to its design it has a super grip in the round head. Usually works for me.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61548[/ATTACH]
Should be ok, check your curent setup. 3 on the front, 1 on the rear.
The other kit had dril bits, guides and long rods with lines on them. You drill a small hole, smash the long rod into it, then you have a thin you put around so you can losen with a ratchet or wrench or whatever. Looks like:
The guides for the drill bits I had absolutely no luck with, I just free handed it. My drill was out of battery (cheap POS) but luckily the smallest drill bit fit the dremel, so I used it to drill the holes. All the screws came out with very little trouble.
I got an impact driver, but its 1/2" so I cant attach bits to it... Need to sort that tomorrow.Last edited by Noreg; 08-19-2020, 02:50 PM.GS1000G 1981
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Originally posted by Noreg View Postbut the head seemed to be made of butter
Originally posted by Noreg View PostThe other kit had dril bits, guides and long rods with lines on them. You drill a small hole, smash the long rod into it, then you have a thin you put around so you can losen with a ratchet or wrench or whatever.
Good on you that you got them out !Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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