From 78c to 79s clone

[storm 64]

Painting an S is really more difficult then most people might think it is. Getting it all symmetrical and correct, especially the tank stripes, tests the patience and skill of even the best painter. Your's looks real nice, Chuck. You should be proud. Can't wait to see it all assembled.

Ha, painting a footage is more difficult than most people think! I take my hat of to you folks that can lay it down. Excellent work Chuck!

[KiwiAlfa156]

Beautiful work. Always loved the S. Almost bought one but plumped for a bronze 1100EZ instead.

[chuck hahn]

Got the rotors stripped and repainted. Also put sprocket on rear rim and rubbed Wizards Power Seal into the sprocket hub to stop oxidation. Goal on Sunday is to do fork seals and polish fork lowers and engine covers.

[chuck hahn]

Today was very productive. Got all the engine covers polished, new stator installed front forks polished, new brake lines hung, and serviced the clutch. Front drive sprocket wouldnt fit the splines on the countershaft and fork seals were to tight and wouldnt go in. 7 1/2 hours later in 100 degree heat i tapped out. Heres some before and after pics of the engine covers. Took seafoam and Qtips and cleaned the nasty oil sight glass too.

[rphillips]

Very productive day, things just keep getting closter & closter & looking good..

[chuck hahn]

I thank you... got a long say to go but ill take small victories

[steve murdoch]

Engine covers look great!
Polished looks so much better than chromed, imho.

[chuck hahn]

I have been tempted to get a quote on just having a complete set of covers chromed. Bet that wouldnt be cheap. I immediately rubbed in copious ammounts of WIZARDS POWER SEAL so they wont oxidize. Should be good for quite some time. Just redo the sealer every spring.

[rphillips]

I'm with steve, though the chrome may be easier, the chrome just don't look right on those covers. The polished, though more trouble, just looks right.

[chuck hahn]

Woke up at 4AM to use bathroom and was wide awake at 5 so it was decided to drink coffee and get an early start. Was over to my shop by 630 and did fork seals, put on front sprocket and chain, installed rotors on the front rim, rubbed POWER SEAL into the fork lowers, cleaned up and mounted horn bracket, put forks and front tire on, installed headlight bucket and all the turn signals. Tested signals and everything worked as it should except the buzzer that goes off when signals are activated. Sounds sadly weak. Trying to decide if i just unplug it or find a working one.

I also assembled the front brake master cylinder and the brake switch. Brought the upper airbox and lid home and they are outside drying. Got more to do but its getting to the point the parts in the parts tub is getting less and less.

And for the final touch of the day, installed a vintage MARTEK 440 electronic ignition.....After 8 hours of solid wrenching i called it quits. Got a lot done.

[chuck hahn]

At some point i need to get some M5X10 phillips head screws and drill and tap the top bridge so i can mount the handle bar cushion pad. The top bridge of course is from the original C model which didnt have the cushion. Since its now converted to the E model configuration its necessary to add the cushion.

EDIT......
Just found a turn signal buzzer on ebay for 10 bucks shipped so i bit.

EDIT 2..
Checked mailbox and the allen head cover bolt set from Z1 has arrived...

[rphillips]

I's sitting here thinking about the buzzer. Back in the day, I'd always disconnect it, I didn't like it. That being said, for what you're doing now, it kind'f needs to be there. Sounds like a good day... As always, just my opinion.

[chuck hahn]

I like the looks people give when you pull up next to them in the turn lane..... i just look and nod.

[nvr2old]

[QUOTE=chuck hahn;n1702242]Woke up at 4AM to use bathroom and was wide awake at 5 so it was decided to drink coffee and get an early start. Was over to my shop by 630 and did fork seals....

Hey Chuck, I'm just getting ready to swap in some new fork seals on my bike, also. Anything unusual about these forks I should know? What weight oil did you use, and how much oil in each fork leg

[chuck hahn]

Pretty straight forward larry. Take out phillips head drain and pump out old oil and replace screw. Then remove the allen head bolt in the bottom. I always heat the bolt good with the torch to soften any possible loctite. My electric impact "usually" spins the bolt out ok. If not trouble with botl just spinning the drive rod inside then just pull the two halves apart. Remove retainer clip and washer. I then use the torch an heat around the top where the seal sets in. This softens the rubber and i then just pry seals out... being careful the screwdriver doesnt contact the fork lower and gawl the metal. then once new seals are in just slide halves back together and put bottom bolt back in.

Now remove the top cap and add 8 ounces of oil. i used 15 weight.