Checking the cylinder head for flatness on a surface plate is not ideal because you will only be able to check the very outside edges. Honestly though, we are really splitting hairs in this thread. Just use a half way decent ruler and look for large inconsistencies in flatness. 95% chance it's fine. I'd be more concern with valve guide and valve/seat wear.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by grcamna2 View Post
Checking the cylinder head for flatness on a surface plate is not ideal because you will only be able to check the very outside edges. Honestly though, we are really splitting hairs in this thread. Just use a half way decent ruler and look for large inconsistencies in flatness. 95% chance it's fine. I'd be more concern with valve guide and valve/seat wear.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostA bore gauge is needed to check cylinder wear. An inside mic could possibly be used but it's not the right tool for the job. And when deglazing cylinders a ball hone is much better than a straight hone like you mention. With a straight hone any slight out of round or taper will result in missed spots in the cylinder where the hone is inconsistent.
Originally posted by Nessism View PostChecking the cylinder head for flatness on a surface plate is not ideal because you will only be able to check the very outside edges. Honestly though, we are really splitting hairs in this thread. Just use a half way decent ruler and look for large inconsistencies in flatness. 95% chance it's fine. I'd be more concern with valve guide and valve/seat wear.Ryan
1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out
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[QUOTE=RustyTank;2639602]I need to pick up a bore gauge to check cylinder wear. If anyone has a particular brand they like let me know, maybe they're all the same though..../QUOTE]
Starrett or mitutoyo, but they are spendy
There are lots of cheap bore gauges on amazon.
... unless you're running a rebuild shop I don't see the need.
You can get a "good enough" read on bore wear using a piston and a feeler gauge.
It won't tell you the actual diameter but it will indicate wear.
A lot of talk about head gaskets and flatness... and no one has mentioned Cometic copper gaskets.
The GS has head sealing problems, copper gasket is an answer.
Better head studs help too.
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Originally posted by RustyTank View PostI need to pick up a bore gauge to check cylinder wear. If anyone has a particular brand they like let me know, maybe they're all the same though..../QUOTE]
Starrett or mitutoyo, but they are spendy
There are lots of cheap bore gauges on amazon.
... unless you're running a rebuild shop I don't see the need.
You can get a "good enough" read on bore wear using a piston and a feeler gauge.
It won't tell you the actual diameter but it will indicate wear.
Originally posted by bitzz View PostA lot of talk about head gaskets and flatness... and no one has mentioned Cometic copper gaskets.
The GS has head sealing problems, copper gasket is an answer.
Better head studs help too.Ryan
1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35712
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Do NOT get a copper gasket if you care about oil tightness. Copper is for race engines where a little weepage is acceptable.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostDo NOT get a copper gasket if you care about oil tightness. Copper is for race engines where a little weepage is acceptable.Ryan
1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out
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Originally posted by grcamna2 View PostMeasuring the bores to see whether there is any 'out of roundness'/egg-shaped wear is highly recommended:I don't own an inside micrometer..
I had used a 3-stone spring loaded hone and done a quick glaze-braking in the past on many cylinders and installed new rings.A few of those engines started using oil even with new rings.A bore job is more expensive but if there is elliptical/out-of-round wear in the bores,this will give you back a fully round bore and the rings will break-in nice and you'll have plenty of excellent,consistent compression/ring sealing:the rebuild will last a long time. I would love to have a shop with machinist tools including a precision 4-stone hone such as an expensive Sunnen.. for now I live in a cheap apartment so I bring my parts to a professional machinist and pay the $.
Originally posted by RustyTank View PostI was wondering why I'd never heard someone suggest it before, lol. Thanks Nessism.1981 GS1100E
1982 GS1100E
"It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle
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