Good to hear you've got things dialed in. These are such great running bikes when tuned right and yours looks super nice. Reminds me of my first GS when I finished high school in '91.
If you haven't changed the gear it really isn't hard to do. Remember, there are two places to drain and change. One right behind the shift lever (drive unit?) and the rear differential (final drive? driven unit?) I'm uncertain of the terms, but check the manual. I change mine every time I replace tires at 9 or 10k miles, which is around the factory recommended interval.
Same with fork oil. It's important to change and not that hard. The stuff you drain out likely won't look or smell anything like the new oil. Over decades that stuff ripens and gets NASTY.
The speedo and tach need to be lubed internally. That should stop the jumpy needles. They will certainly completely fail without lube. Here's a pic showing the mechanism from my '83 and where the lube needs to get to. Yours is a different cluster, but internally similar, I'm sure.
Some say to carefully shoot some light oil or something into the housing and get the gears lubed. Watch out though, too much and you'll fog up the lens. I had mine taken apart and was able to clean the gears really thoroughly, then lubed with some WD-40 lithium grease spray. The nedles are steady now. Wish I had done this earlier when I noticed the jumpi needles. The gauges are not easy to find anymore. Oh, I woudn't rely too much on the accuracy of the odometer so having it jump around probably didn't change the mileage reading much. I always use that reading as more of a guideline than actual mileage. LOL. Comparing to other vehicles I've traveled with, or the GPS on my phone, it's always been a bit off anyway.
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