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1982 GS1100gl project
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1982 GS1100gl project
Well after introducing myself I started to pull this 1100 apart. Im always amazed at what PO's do or not due to these poor bikes. The bike looks ok but there are a lot of small details that need addressing. Thats why I normally tear these old bike down completely and start from scratch. The wiring is a mess on this bike and will take some work. On my Z1's I would buy a new harness but nothing is available for this bike. Here is a nice spacer he came up with.Tags: None
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35589
- Torrance, CA
Those carbs look great! Thanks for the photo!Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by craz1 View PostRon
When I die, just cremate me and put me in my GS tank. That way I can go through these carbs, one more time!https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/core/images/smilies/cool.png
1978 GS750E - November 2017 BOTM
1978 GS1000C - May 2021 BOTM
1982 GS1100E - April 2024 BOTM
1999 Honda GL1500SE
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I developed my cleaning method due to the fact I hated working with glass beads in my blast cabinet. Its very dusty when even doing a small piece. You cant see in the cabinet and you need a good vac system which was always getting clogged. Also you went through a lot of blasting media because most of it got sucked up into the vac system. I started looking at different media and came across cut stainless steel wire. So I ordered 50lbs, 25lbs of cut wire and 25lbs of conditioned cut wire. The wire measures .014. The cut wire is just that, the condition wire is cut wire which has been conditioned to resemble a more rounded shape. First of all I clean the part of all oil and grease. I then block off all threaded holes and oil ports. The wire is 304 so it is slightly magnetic. I blast the cases with the std cut wire if the cases are pretty oxidized. Then I change media and blast it again with the conditioned wire which tends to peen the aluminum and gives it a satin finish. Then I clean the cases in hot water with a little dawn soap while gently rubbing the surface with 0000 steel wool. The end results are pretty good and almost as close as vapor blast. It takes a bit of time but $300-400 would be the cost for vapor blast ( cases, head, cylinders ). I run my cabinet pressure at only 50psi. I modified my good old Harbor Frt cabinet to use a bottom feed and a foot pedal to operate the gun. The modifications can be bought from Tacoma Company and there are some u-tube videos to watch about their conversion kits. I get my media from Pellets LLC. I warn you that the SS media is a bit expensive but 25lbs will last the hobbyist many years. Once you convert your cabinet you only need about 2 cups of the media in the bottom rather than 20lbs of beads or whatever you are using. Also the blasting process is very clean. You don't have the glass beads shattering and causing a mess. I have had the same 25 lbs for 8 years and only have used half of that. I have also cleaned the media using solvents and letting it dry to reuse again. I still get a little that escapes the cabinet so I just sweep it up and strain it and throw it back into the cabinet. Here is my friends Z1 I restored using this process.
Here are the cases
Last edited by craz1; 12-21-2021, 02:26 PM.
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Absolutely cracking job, I agree.
I wouldn't use glass beads after the horror stories I've heard about bead debris being embedded in the surfaces and then contaminating oil ways later on, resulting in the destruction of an engine.
I sincerely hope the stainless wire is not prone to that, but if it doesn't shatter it shouldn't be.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Yes the beads can shatter and embed in the aluminum. Once heated and expands it can be released into the engine. So if you do use dry glass blasting make sure your protect the insides. Only blast the exterior. No problem with the SS media however I still protect threads and passages. You still have to inspect everything to makes sure nothing is left behind
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Started to assemble the bike after a lot of cleaning/polishing
I am waiting on some cushions for the new speedometer
Polished mounts
The starter was toast, this is what the armature looked like. The brushes were completely gone and only carbon dust remained. I found a NOS armature in Texas for $85 and already had the rebuild kit. A new Ricks starter was $230 or so
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Also the Vin tag was totally faded and I tried to find another GS1100GL to copy but no luck. I came across a GS850GL which is pretty much the same bike other than the engine. I used that tag and just inserted the 1100 serial number and changed it to read GS1100GL. Tires are the same so I assumed the weight info is close or the same. So if anyone can supply me with the correct vin tag for the GS1100GL let me know
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Originally posted by craz1 View PostAlso the Vin tag was totally faded and I tried to find another GS1100GL to copy but no luck. I came across a GS850GL which is pretty much the same bike other than the engine. I used that tag and just inserted the 1100 serial number and changed it to read GS1100GL. Tires are the same so I assumed the weight info is close or the same. So if anyone can supply me with the correct vin tag for the GS1100GL let me know
I think the 1100GL is actually a few pounds lighter than the 850, FWIW.
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