1982 GS1100gl project

[craz1]

I wish I had a lathe, milling machine, a friend of mine does. The tool was easy to make in an hour or so.

[craz1]

Well I turned my attention to then rear drive. The drive looked a little rusty and was lacking grease. The gear on the final drive had some rounded splines so the search was on for a good replacement. I was lucky to find two good hubs close to me which I could physically check. I had been watching them on Ebay and to my surprise they had been marked down 65% so I went this morning to check them out. Both looked good so mI bought them both for a total of $15.00. There were a few on Ebay for $25 but its hard to view the splines. Most were going around $65 and up. This final drive was used on a lot of model for many years so there is a good selection out there. These drives need to be lubricated often to prevent wear. I didn't help that this bike saw a lot of dirt roads in Texas. So with the way the drive looked I thought I should pull the wheel drive off and take a good look at it. Glad I did, have a look. Got a new one coming for $127 + 38 for frt from Israel of all places. I have ordered from them before when I was looking for some parts for my 2002 GSXR1000. It was the cheapest price out there.

Here is what I bought for $15.


Here is the driven gear on the wheel. Almost to failure point. Po's you have to love them, NOT

[craz1]

Well I am back working on the GS after taking some time to do a little riding in Arizona and working on the other project in my shop, a Z1900. I got the last of the seals for the engine so I managed to seal the cases today. I have been using Loctite 518 for the cases and have been very happy with the results.

[craz1]

I also got one of the $7.50 rear end polished. Im waiting on my cylinders which are on there way from APE. Since I could not find any next size overbore pistons I ended up going with the Wisco 1134 kit which is 2mm over stock.

[craz1]

While waiting for my rear cam chain adjuster from the UK I thought I would install the lower end so I could install the swing arm and rear wheel.

[craz1]

Its been a few weeks. I was busy finishing my 75 Z1900. I also did a 4700 mile ride to Alabama-Tennesee. Right before I left I did receive my rear guide.




The guide is made from virgin PTFE I believe. I didn't want to put the old and cracking stock one back in and the OEM units were no wear to be found. I did put a request in to CMSNL to inform me if they were to receive stock on the OEM guide. So 3 weeks after getting the aftermarket guide I get an email from CMSNL that they have a n OEM unit in stock. I purchased that also just in case this aftermarket one does not hold up. So I got the guide in and installed the pistons.



I like using these Honda ring compressors. This set is for A Honda CB450 which is in the range for pistons for my Z1 bikes. However they were just a tad small for the Wisco Pistons I am using for the 1100. So I had the idea to open them up a bit and it worked. I tweaked them just enough so they fit the larger pistons nicely. Once the pistons were installed I need to find TDC so I could time the Dyna 2000 unit that came with the bike. It did not have any of the stock system. I used a dial indicator while turning the crank to find TDC. I doubled checked this by finding where the piston was at .010 before TDC and after TDC and used my Calipers to check those marks from TDC. I would normally use a degree wheel and positive stop but it would have been hard to set up. Im satisfied It will be close enough for this stock engine. I installed the head and cams and rechecked everything. So on to the new Delkevic exhaust. With the seat, exhaust, and different handlebars the bike looks nothing like the stock GS1100GL. I have a bit of electrical to do and a few odds and ends before my paint work is done. Hopefully I can pick up the paint by the end of June.

[craz1]

First look at some of the paint

[craz1]

I have completed the wiring for the bike with the addition of a new regulator/rectifier unit. Also got the cables sorted. I am using handlebars from a Yamaha XJ550 so I had to figure out which cables I could run. The std GS1100GL cables would one to long so I tried cables for the GS1100E which worked fine. I got the engine full of fluids and had a scare after filling the gear case cavity on the engine. This engine has a separate cavity for the output shaft gears and uses 90 wt gear oil. I filled with the recommended amount and as I was filling the main engine with 10w-40 I noticed a small puddle of gear oil beneath the engine. WTF , my first thought was a seal (which are all new ). Went over to the left side of the engine and traced the oil to a small 6mm threaded hole with the word fill to this level. I completely forgot about that hole. Put a 6mm bolt with a copper washer and called it good. I also got the carbs and airbox mounted. The new rear brake line has also been mounted and ready to fill and bleed the front and rear brakes. Next step was the valve clearance. Since I don't have the stock ignition (dyna 2000) I needed to put the trans in 5th gear and turn the engine with the rear wheel worked great. Of course I need a few shims I did not have so they are on the way. I will be picking up the paint one the 12th of June . I hope to have the bike ready to fire as soon as I get the proper shims in. Getting close.

[craz1]

Got the brakes bleed and just got back from the painter. decided to see how the new paint will look. Was going to time the Dyna 2000 but I forgot to order plug wires.

[IFly85]

I love this thread. I am seriously blown away by your skill and attention to detail craz1! Beautiful work. I can't wait to see more!

[craz1]

Here is something I forgot to mention. My fuel sender unit was leaking so I figured a repair. First off the sender was not working properly. I needed to clean the wiper which varies the ohms as the float raises. The wire to the float is just staked and had worked loose. I took a brass bolt and soldered on the wire. To seal the assembly I used nylon shoulder bearing which sits on the outside of the sender mount. The shoulder was cut down to the thickness of the mount and is the same diameter as the mount hole. On the other side I used a viton o-ring and nylon washer to make a seal. The bolt passes through the shoulder bearing which keeps things from grounding out.

[craz1]

Well Im going to wrap this project up. I have been breaking the bike in on two recent rides. The first ride I had a minor problem. I forgot to install the spring on the idle screw and it vibrated inward causing my RPM to increase to 3,000 at a stop. Also when I was syncing the carbs I could not get carb 2 to sync properly. I was thinking I must have a vacuum leak somewhere, then it dawned on me that carb 2 feeds the vacuum operated petcock and I forgot to plug the line, Dah. Otherwise I could not be happier with the results of this build. The 1134 Wisco kit is performing nicely and the bike pulls good. Only been reving to 6,000 for now but I can feel how it will be once I let it all hang out. Thanks for viewing. Now on to my next project which is a XJ550 Maxim.

[Rob S.]

Here is my friends Z1 I restored using this process.

That's a Z1b ('75), correct? What a beauty!

[craz1]

Yes we restored that bike(Z1B) two years ago and restored his Z1 last winter

[craz1]

And my Z1 bikes