left cover plate for racing

[trippivot]

2nd gear yep.

if you are going to just bump start it. why not take out everything under the alt cover and just put the cover back on? empty in there and oil tight. just put a plug where the starter was.

suncoast made a very thin plate and seal so the stock cover can be reinstalled and not have the cover shoved out nearly a half inch.


I have made a device with 2 rollers that 2 bikes can fit side by side with the rear tires on it so a running bike's rear wheel can spin the rear wheel of the race bike for a stationary bump start. I've used my moped to create the starting motion.

[GregT]

For road racing there are 3 popular alternatives:
Bump start it
Roller start it
Split the rotor off the center boss leaving the starter clutch in place and power the starter from an external battery.

As I've posted but apparently went unnoticed, it's dead easy to split the rotor off the center boss - the rivets are soft,drill them from the rotor side approx 3/8in drill until the heads come off then drive out with a punch.

I'm picking up the shortened cover today so I'll be in a position to post pics shortly.

[wera racer]

Thanks, guys, some good ideas. The drag racing cover plate is on its way and I'm going to try it. I'd like to see your pics, Greg.
Rick

[Gilmoses]

Are you road racing or drag racing? I'm a lil confused.
I personally did like Trippivot, removed the stator, and the magnet. . . left the rest of the starter clutch, welded the stationary parts back together, and bolted it back on the crank. I still use my starter and clutch cover, this is on my street drag bike, with 10.5:1 compression, . . . then I just charge my battery between rounds. A high compression motor will take its toll on a stock starter in most cases, it will be best to use a 24v starter cart, in that case. . . .

[wera racer]

Are you road racing or drag racing? I'm a lil confused.
I personally did like Trippivot, removed the stator, and the magnet. . . left the rest of the starter clutch, welded the stationary parts back together, and bolted it back on the crank. I still use my starter and clutch cover, this is on my street drag bike, with 10.5:1 compression, . . . then I just charge my battery between rounds. A high compression motor will take its toll on a stock starter in most cases, it will be best to use a 24v starter cart, in that case. . . .

Vintage road racing, so the more clearance the better. Thanks!

[GregT]

Pics as requested.
Left hand crank end with rotor split off the center boss, starter clutch retaining screws shortened, loctited, and peened over lightly.
When we need to replace the starter clutch - and we're sure to - all I have to do is grind off the peened ends of the screws & remove.

[GregT]

Shortened cover in place.
5mm plate, approx 4mm wall tube insert and 8mm end cap, all TIG welded.

The owner/rider shortened it and it should have been 10mm shorter...
He knows I'll laugh at him if he decks it now.

Easy.

[kochic]

Wow, a beautiful cover.
Marc

[wera racer]

Shortened cover in place.
5mm plate, approx 4mm wall tube insert and 8mm end cap, all TIG welded.

The owner/rider shortened it and it should have been 10mm shorter...
He knows I'll laugh at him if he decks it now.

Easy.

Nicely don, thanks. My plate from Murdoch Racing arrived yesterday. Will post a pic when it's installed.

[wera racer]

Shortened cover in place.
5mm plate, approx 4mm wall tube insert and 8mm end cap, all TIG welded.

The owner/rider shortened it and it should have been 10mm shorter...
He knows I'll laugh at him if he decks it now.

Easy.

Greg, I installed the drag flat cover plate but I'm not thrilled with it. The crank sticks out quite a bit and I'm not sure that would pass WERA race tech inspection. And I don't want to cut the crank end off as this may revert to a street bike some day. I like the TIG work you did on yours and mine could be even shorter because I'm not going to use the starter. I can weld but don't have access to TIG. If I sent you my stock cover, what would you charge to make one like yours? Alternatively, I could send you the flat drag cover and an aluminum "cap" could be TIG-welded to it. That might be the best thing to do. Your thoughts? Rick

[GregT]

Remember I'm half a world away from you...surely there must be someone local to you who could fabricate the extension and TIG it on ?
Where there's a racing community there are the support services. This is just the sort of little job a lot of car race shops can do easily.

If all else fails, sure, but the freight costs will probably be more than the job iself....

[wera racer]

Remember I'm half a world away from you...surely there must be someone local to you who could fabricate the extension and TIG it on ?
Where there's a racing community there are the support services. This is just the sort of little job a lot of car race shops can do easily.

If all else fails, sure, but the freight costs will probably be more than the job iself....

I forgot, my apologies.

[Gilmoses]

GregT thats a very clean starter clutch set-up you have there. Mine is the same principal, but doesnt look as good. . .

[wera racer]

Okay, so here's what I did. Using the Alumalloy aluminum "brazing" magical, mystery stuff and some aluminum tube and flat plate, I fabricated a crankshaft cover that is "aluma-brazed" to the drag racing cover plate. Good to go.

[Buffalo Bill]

Not quite enough…

Okay, so here's what I did. Using the Alumalloy aluminum "brazing" magical, mystery stuff and some aluminum tube and flat plate, I fabricated a crankshaft cover that is "aluma-brazed" to the drag racing cover plate. Good to go.

But is it good to go sliding across a track and field?
Myself, I would buttress that cylinder with some triangular plates welded on. That would distribute the impact over the main plate.
Bill