Who has the quikest and fastest GS

[NoBars]

Quickest pass with a hand clutch, 2 stage lockup. 8.18

quickest with a slider 7.87

Rode it to the friday night cruise spot pretty regularly with the hand clutch, 30 mile round trip. DOT tires, 68"

[NoBars]

Old pic. Bike sleeps in the corner nowadays.

[stetracer]

Old pic. Bike sleeps in the corner nowadays.

Thats a sleeping beauty

[B-RAD]

A " High Fiber Diet " for this winter

[gs11ezrydr]

I'm sure this isn't probally the fastest GS around but hopefully a decent running daily driver. It's a 1982 GS100EZ. I have a head down at Star racing getting ported now stage II and should be back in a few more weeks hopefully. I am boring the cyls.3mm's o/s 1168cc Wiseco. Compression after surfacing every thing should be 11:1-11:5 or so. 93 pump gas hopefully. Web Cams .348 lift camshafts. Some 36CV carbs. Large oval K+N hooked to the stock plenum w/air box removed. Stage 3 Dynojet kit. Falicon crank indexed,trued,welded,with a billet left end.FBG backcut trans with all new gears,shift cam,forks etc. V+H modified clutch basket,HD nut,High volume oil pump gears,Billet cam chain tensioner, Dyna S ignition w/green coils.V+H megaphone header.Progressive shocks and fork springs,lowered 2". Looking for a Trac Dynamics 4" over swing arm and a decent oil cooler. Should have it up and running in a couple months I'll post some pics and some time slips and will see how it goes. I'm totally up for any suggestions with any further mods that any one would feel would make things more reliable etc.

[Agemax]

I'm sure this isn't probally the fastest GS around but hopefully a decent running daily driver. It's a 1982 GS100EZ. I have a head down at Star racing getting ported now stage II and should be back in a few more weeks hopefully. I am boring the cyls.3mm's o/s 1168cc Wiseco. Compression after surfacing every thing should be 11:1-11:5 or so. 93 pump gas hopefully. Web Cams .348 lift camshafts. Some 36CV carbs. Large oval K+N hooked to the stock plenum w/air box removed. Stage 3 Dynojet kit. Falicon crank indexed,trued,welded,with a billet left end.FBG backcut trans with all new gears,shift cam,forks etc. V+H modified clutch basket,HD nut,High volume oil pump gears,Billet cam chain tensioner, Dyna S ignition w/green coils.V+H megaphone header.Progressive shocks and fork springs,lowered 2". Looking for a Trac Dynamics 4" over swing arm and a decent oil cooler. Should have it up and running in a couple months I'll post some pics and some time slips and will see how it goes. I'm totally up for any suggestions with any further mods that any one would feel would make things more reliable etc.

sounds very trick engine you have going on there....
just a thought, but as a daily rider would 11.1-11.5 CR be a bit high for street ridability?

[gs11ezrydr]

Yea that is exactly what I thought. The pistons are 10.25:1 and I am having the cyl. head and cyl. block surfaced as little as possible so possibly it won't get up that high. After I cc and clearance everything and get out the calculator to find out exactly what it is that was a rough estimate. If very high Copper Gaskets Unlimited can make me a thicker base gasket to my specs and lower it down. Still gonna install a good oil cooler.

[RacingJake]

I'd go with a set of flatsides over the 36 cv's and I'd stick with mikuni jets over the dyno jets cause everytime I tried a Dyno jets on my bike it would lean out big time on the top end of the track. A 138 dyno jet is like equal to a 130 mikuni jet and you'll be chasing your tail.

If the compression is still alittle high you can always retard the intake cam alittle too.

[gs11ezrydr]

Ok Thanks. I know what you mean as to where I have replaced some of the Dynojet jets before on some other bikes like replacing a DJ138 with as big as a 150 mikuni jet with the same plenum/filter combo.Hopefully I can score some flatslides that don't cost me an arm and a leg also lol. And cam timing ok never thought of that to bleed off some compression. Will that cause any adverse running conditions? If not would be cool to keep the compression a little high for track use and back it down for street use.Sounds too easy

[RacingJake]

Just a few degrees retarded on the intake cam can drop your cranking compression and move your power band higher up in the RPM range, but if you go too far then the engine will be a dog and just lay down. Your trying to find that sweat spot where you come flying out of the hole with topend power too.

You got to be careful and use a dail indicater, degree wheel and double check your valves to pistons clearance cause it's real easy to bend some valves if you get lost and go too far advance on the intake or too far retarded on the exhaust.

Min is .050 on the intake and .075 on the exhaust, but some have push the intake to .035 but you should have good springs cause there's not much room for errors.

Some of us have done it so many times we know where's the power at and just set our valve to piston clearance.

[bellucci]

I agree with the flat slides...I rode my 1327 on the street and you sure do want that oil cooler...
Curt

[stetracer]

+2 on the flat slides and good valve springs. If you get a newer Dyna 2000 that you can program you can custom map your ignition timing to help with the higher compression motors. At around 11 to 1 compression on a little 1168cc kit with drop in cams you won't have anything to worry about unless they take .050 or .060 off the head. Put the cams in at 108I/110E L/C for street/strip motor.