My last GS project

[geek]

I know what you mean. I really have not had much time myself to play with the bikes.

I pulled some of the motor down and it appears as owner described. Looks like a fresh rebuild, spacer and different cam gear. Basically stock. No clutch at all. Needs a few other bits. Output shaft is stock and will need to be changed.

[gmansyz]

Yup, replace the output shaft with a billet.
G

[geek]

You run a busa now I take it. What sort of bike and mods?

[gmansyz]

My Busa Kat

Weeell, I am trying to wedge a Busa into my old Katana. I posted pics of the oversize gas tank in another post. And I hope it will look like my sig drawing. Taking way too long.
But, 1397 with a small turbo. Wide transmission gears. Using GSX1400 trans with a few custom made ones. Only they are $600 a set. Small turbo with the hopes of 400-450HP max. Though I would run it with 250-300 as the max on the street. Use '07 GSXR1K wheels, Yami R1 forks with 6-piston calipers and I hope some 330mm rotors. Think of it as a performance street bike with LSR intentions.
There is more, but.... no money so I can't do anything until the GS air-cooled stuff is sold.
Laters
Greg

[gmansyz]

A little sidetrack

My condolences out to Bill Warner's Family.
Having crashed at 285 at Loring in July.
Holding the record of 311 MPH on a sit on motorcycle making 1200 horsepower.
Sorry to see you go.
So you can see a water wonders is the way to go and keep it reliable.
Laters
Greg

[geek]

400-450HP should be no problem. I really have no clue how much power I make with the GS. If I use one of those on-line calculators:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

730 lbs (guessing it's a little more) and 165 MPH comes up with 270 HP.
7.85 E/T with 730 lbs it comes up with 298 HP.
If I use Terry's ballpark formula, 100 + (22 * 8) = 276 HP.

I had ran near 30 pounds of boost in that video I made. The bike was not stable. I would like to turn it back up after all changes to the chassis and see what it would run.

Their top calculator figures E/T and matches with their third HP calculator. Try it.

For 30 PSI
100+(30*8) = 340, or a gain of 64 HP.

340 HP and 730 lbs their calculator shows 7.5 at 178 MPH. Bike would need to be geared different. Top end is set to 170 now on the limiter.

Or we can use the calculators 298HP and add 64 to that. The top calculator comes up with 7.36 at 182 MPH.

You trust any of that on-line calculator stuff?? Really need a motor dyno....


I want to put this setup into a car tire bike. It's a light chassis. I plan to keep the motor stock for the most part.

Swap your busa parts for my air cooled GS.

[gmansyz]

300 sounds about right though I have not had a chance to play with it yet. Maybe gear it just a tad taller?
Where did you get the elbows from? How this is the material? Then, what is the actual bore size of the TB's?
Sorry, but my Busa engine is not the greatest and I would like less air-cooled stuff rather than more. The 1127 is the closest I get to it. Weak trans and all.
Note, the most you can get from a stock rod/piston Busa engine is about 250 HP. Any more and these both need to be replaced along with the normal stuff like HD cylinder and crankcase studs. And o-ring the block too. Oh, output shaft too and the lock-up clutch as well. You don't need to go bigger bore, just standard size drop in pistons. A friend of mine built a turbo Busa drag bike with a turbo flowing enough air for 700 horsepower. He turned it down for 350HP and went high 7's. This is still using the Busa frame with other mods like fiberglass fairing, mini tank, Long swing arm too.
When I build mine, I will re-evaluate my needs and may tone it back some and get a smaller turbo and less power as well. Just to keep it more street able. My buddy also had his on the street before going all out and kept telling me he had trouble with 120mph wheelies or 150mph burnouts. Only with 280 HP and a moderate length swinger.
Food for thought?
Laters
Greg

[geek]

I had not planned on running the GS much quicker. The gearing was set to be just under the limiter, I think just over 170. Never made it there with with all the flex.

The elbows are made by Vibrant. Aluminum. Not sure what material, cast part. Amazon.

The TB is 48mm. I use a 42mm Mikuni on the GS. Bore was not too much of a problem making good power. Getting it to meter that much fuel was. If I change the boost, I have to change the jetting. Way outside what the thing was designed for. Even an open loop EFI would be much better than what I have today.

I can believe 300HP with no problems from stock rods on the busa. I run stock 493 rods in the GS motors. GS required a lot of mods to get it to live but the rods were never a problem.

I have not decided on a clutch. I went from stock with big springs, to a lockup to a multistage on the GS. No way I would waste money on a single stage lockup. Would like to find someone with the software for the Gen II.

I think your friend had the right idea. Because I am just having fun, having a bike I could actually ride on the street from time to time would be better than a full on drag bike. I am just not sure how I would handle the clutch. I see the new busa covers allow quick access for the arm springs but would really want a switch that changes the static.

One of the old members of this site came up with an idea for an adjustable slider that we helped him with. A flick of a switch would change the stall. Not good for street, but let him drive the bike in the pits.

[gmansyz]

Flex? Chassis flex? Maybe a whole Busa would be a better start?
Okay, 1/8" thick?
Sounds like the normal problem draw thru's have. The air flow is so different that you need one of those "Thunder Jets". Power jets or something similar. Just a fuel bleed.
Stock Busa rods are good for 250-260 HP. Any more and they give trouble. The 493GS rods can handle 400-450? I think.
Software? Are you talking about the stuff for reprogramming the stock computer? It's all over the net. I would just look up ECU Hacking. Multi stage lockup is the hot ticket. No slider. That's what my friend had and it works. Even the restricted drag classes run low 8's with a single stage and limited turbo inlet.
I remember that someone, had a boost referenced lockup. More boost = more pressure.
Laters
G

[geek]

Yes, chassis flex on my GS stock cradle bike. This is not going in that bike. You can see the flex in the video I posted. Can't see starting with a busa cradle.

I don't use a thunder jet or power jet on the other bike. Just a lot of mods to the stock carb. It works alright with gasoline. No way it would work with methanol.

I would guess the elbows are around an 1/8th. Never sectioned one.

I was talking about the software for the Gen II clutch. I doubt I will run a multi-stage on this bike. Maybe if I find a deal on a used one.

Interesting idea on the boost controlled lockup. If you find any info on it, post.

[gmansyz]

Okay, though the Busa doesn't any cradle. Just a whole perimeter frame. It work better at tying the steering head to the swing arm pivot. Cradle type flex way too much. May look at a true Pro frame?
I think it may have been NLR? For the lockup. Not sure.
Laters
G

[geek]

Okay, though the Busa doesn't any cradle. Just a whole perimeter frame. It work better at tying the steering head to the swing arm pivot. Cradle type flex way too much. May look at a true Pro frame?
I think it may have been NLR? For the lockup. Not sure.
Laters
G

I assumed you would have guessed I was referring to the section of the frame that holds the motor not the style of chassis. I think we have all seen busa frames. I don't think you will find too many car tire bikes built around a perimeter chassis.

Not sure what you mean about cradle frame flexing too much or a true Pro frame.

[gmansyz]

True, but I have seen Turbo Busas run 7's with the "street" tire. So a car tire is not that big of a deal.
The Pro frames I was talking about were Kosman and the other one out in Cali. Just can't remember their name. Like what you would find in a Pro-Stock.
Unfortunately, they all flex.
G

[geek]

A friend of mine ran his first six no a busa with no bar and a street tire. Not sure what that has to do with a car tire bike with stock motor, but thought I would throw it out there. They are impressive to say the least!

"So a car tire is not that big of a deal."
Not sure what you mean.

I would guess that if we compared two bikes that ran the same E/T. One, no-bar street tire and one with a car tire and bar. Do you think they make the same power? So you think they have the same short times?

Obviously it's a whole different problem. A bar bike with a car tire can shock the system far more than you will get with a street tire. Bring your quickest no-bar bike and lightest rider and we can race to 5 feet.

There are a lot of companies out there making frames for drag bikes. Some very nice stuff. I would guess, most of the frames made are not used in P/S class. I see a lot of very nice bikes in PET. Your right, everything will flex.

[gmansyz]

Okay, it's all working fine.
G