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new GS racer
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russr33
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white79bu
Motogpwerks pipes look awesome. But I am thinking that stainless exhaust systems aren't legall in some vintage racing classes.
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I love it....cant wait to see more.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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Looking great! I'm running 17's with a 120 on the front, and a 180 on the rear. Currently using Continental slicks but have also used Pirreli's. I do use tyre warmers (after a high side on the first lap of a race), and carry another set of wheels with wets on, which are currently a Continental front and Bridgestone rear. I haven't needed to use the wets yet, but have to say that I have had no problems with either the Pirelli's or Conti's - I would recommend either.
I used standard length GS1000 forks (with heavier springs and emulators) for many years and had very few problems with ground clearance. I did raise the rear by lengthening the shocks to sharpen the steering and for extra clearance. Just stay away from those ripple strips though.
If you print the picture below you should be able to determine the length of the shocks by scaling the wheels at 17 inches.
"to do something well is so worthwhile that to die trying to do it better cannot be foolhardy. Indeed, life is not measured in years alone but in achievement...." Bruce McLaren
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sharpy
This is a Tingate exhaust, Was one of two pipes EVERY Superbike used in the hey day in Australia, I could get some mesurements if u wanted to make something simular...
More pics in here..... http://s125.photobucket.com/user/sha...980%20Gs1000st
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Love this one..
Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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patrino
Looks like the forks aren't first-gen GSX-R600 after all. I'll post some detailed photos soon, would appreciate an ID if anyone recognizes them.
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mrbridgeport
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patrino
GregT, I looked, yes the carbs are 29s.
Finally took the bike out for a spin around the block (hadn't started it yet), wow, it pulls like a freight train!
Looks like the forks are first-gen GSX-R750, with the anti-dive framas welded up.
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Originally posted by patrino View PostLooks like the forks are first-gen GSX-R750, with the anti-dive framas welded up.
sigpicJohn Kat
My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020
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patrino
Ordered some emulators and springs from RaceTech, hoping to put them in over the weekend. Started building a new seat last weekend.
My budget is what it is, and I'm longer on time than I am on $. To that end I just bought a set of old used cam sprockets, with the intent to degree the stock GS cams. I have a machinist friend who can slot the sprockets for me.
Is this a total waste of time? If not, does anyone know the "magic numbers" I'm looking for? Stock settings? Something else?
I've got the bits I need to do the work (degree wheel, dial indicator, piston stop, etc.), just curious if anyone has experience with this.
At this point buying a set of performance cams is not on the table.
Thanks, Patrick
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IIRC, 104 intake/106 exhaust for torque
Some aftermarket cams will make in big difference1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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patrino
Slow and steady.
RaceTech parts should be here today, hope to put them in Friday.
Steering damper showed up today, still waiting on the fork bracket for it.
Next big chunk of work is to work on the front brakes. The previous owner fabricated hanger plates for the EX500 calipers. They're spaced left-right correctly, but sit too far off the disc - see photos. I'd guess surface-area-wise, less than 60% of the pads were actually contacting the rotors.
I either need to make some new hangers or fit new discs. Again, given that I'm longer on time than $ this winter, I'll probably just buy some new brake pads and get some new hangers. I bought some thin sheet aluminum to make prototypes (bolt centers, spacing, etc.), and will probably ask a local shop to fabricate the real deals. Taking a look at them, then can be brought much closer in to the fork tube, that's probably not a bad idea too, as far as stiffness in the system goes.
I also want to do away with the washer stackup on the RH side. I'm not sure if the front calipers need to be removed to take off the front wheel, but given that I've got a set of rains, and that I live in the Pacific Northwest, I don't want to deal with losing a washer if I have to swap them out. So I'll either have one-piece hangers made, or else get a piece of stock to replace the washers.
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Yes, they can and should be tidied up, including using more of the pad...
The piece of thick sheet used as a spacer should be duplicated for the other side. If I have it right, when swapping wheels you'll only pull the calipers off the mounting plates, not remove the plates and spacers.
With calipers off the plates, there should be room to remove the wheel.
Just to point out differing rules, we'd be using opposed piston twin pots - Lockheed or Brembo - and we're not allowed floating discs unless they were OE fitment...Pic attatched, a bit butch, but very effective...Last edited by GregT; 11-28-2013, 02:27 AM.
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