New to me GS1000 Street/Strip..LONGGGG

[trippivot]

71" is a good length to be at. used to be rules about 68" maximum - now those are slowly changing. It is promising you are not intimidated by changing the front mounts. -And now is the time to brace - or tie together the rear top engine mounts to both sides of the frame. easy and it helps, same thing at the the shock towers - or where the struts meet the frame. Another good idea is Cutting the seat rails and lowering them - option for lower center of gravity - foot peg mountings back on the swing arm - just suggestions. not streetable but lower it to 2" ground clearance.

180 shinko is a good tire 190 and 200 seem to buckle under a little when you go down to 18~20 PSI

bandit/gsxr-- VS -- GS- engine in a dragbike context? my analysis in 2 words -- fragile VS durable - please don't get wrong idea - I like to promote a positive discussion - but been told I sound negative a lot.

hmmm. OK the legendary 1127cc oil boiler is a very powerful engine . It has ultra sensitive babbit bearings on the rods and mains - you must have the whole variety of the bearing sizes kits both rods and mains to build. not fun and this is where so many mistakes happen. 1 time use stretch rod bolts- yuck. it is a huge undertaking to re-do the bottom end. This engine also needs a clutch/clutch basket upgrade - top end oiling hurts lower end unless you convert to a dry sump. Must have the threaded adjuster type head - shim spitting sucks. Finally , any idea how much clutch friction material flows throughout the oiling system in a drag racing engine? -10 passes and ride it home? you trust FRAM that much? would be cooler to have a dry clutch and keep that junk out of the plain bearings.

the magic of the GS/KZ/XLH/FX drag engines is the roller bearing crankshaft. Elite design that is cost prohibitive - stronger - durable - takes more abuse - withstands neglect , has a open super hard rollers on super hard races- it is rock crusher strong! ,,, did I mention you can run it at redline with dirty oil - for decades? The GS 1100/1150 is an overbuilt product - we double and then some increase the output and they still live a lot of racing years on stock connecting rods. impressive .
bottom end repair big difference - top end repair is identical.

Not steady facts, just my opinion - period. run what makes you happy , run what you can afford , run whatever you can get your hands on. Just don't run it all out on the street.

nitrous? yeah, there is a 12 step group for that - lol no really holler out we can help you avoid melting spark plugs.

[stetracer]

I have not had one bearing failure on a Bandit motor. Babbit bearing don't scare me and the Bandits are famous for going over 100,000 miles. Yes the clutch is week but it is a cheep fix. The Bandit in the photo was built in 2007 and had 25,000 miles the bottom end is completely stock and original. I did put a 1992 GSXR1100 clutch basket with the 89 GSXR1100 pressure plate, inner hub, fibers and steals. The tranny has not even been under cut. I also rode it to Orlando for an over nite trip with the wife on the back. The only thing I have done to it since I built it was to rering the pistons with a fresh bore and install a .400 lift intake cam and the bigger 41 Keihins carbs and a longer swingarm. Never had a bearing issue. But I change my oil a lot.

[trippivot]

my stock 1997 1200 bandit S is jealous - yours is very nicely modified.. mine would look good like that too.

babbit bearing set up takes skill and talent and patience and - you are right it is nothing to fear except the time and energy to fix what went wrong.

clean hi-pressure oil is the golden key.

[stetracer]

Trip,
Oh yea it is very time consuming to make sure they are right. But I love doing it. I just plain love working on bikes. Almost as much if not more than riding them.
That Bandit is not mine anymore I gave it to my son. He is the one that ran the 9.38 on it. With an experienced rider or more seat time for him I am sure the maroon monster would run in the 9.20's. I have an 02 1340cc Bandit that I have been collecting parts for that I am building for myself. And I have an 01 Bandit also that could be made whole.
But I still love my 84&85 GS1150's the best.

[jkrum87]

the magic of the GS/KZ/XLH/FX drag engines is the roller bearing crankshaft. Elite design that is cost prohibitive - stronger - durable - takes more abuse - withstands neglect , has a open super hard rollers on super hard races- it is rock crusher strong! ,,, did I mention you can run it at redline with dirty oil - for decades? The GS 1100/1150 is an overbuilt product - we double and then some increase the output and they still live a lot of racing years on stock connecting rods. impressive .
bottom end repair big difference - top end repair is identical.

Not steady facts, just my opinion - period. run what makes you happy , run what you can afford , run whatever you can get your hands on. Just don't run it all out on the street.

nitrous? yeah, there is a 12 step group for that - lol no really holler out we can help you avoid melting spark plugs.

There is so much knowledge here it can be overwhelming at times but I like to learn so this is good. I swapped the gs1100 motor into my gs1000 frame this weekend and just have a few small things to take care of. runs and drives tho.

next step. nitrous. how much is to much? how much do i start with and how much has safely been used on a stock motor.

[jkrum87]

also what do you mean by tying together the rear engine mounts?

[stetracer]

There is so much knowledge here it can be overwhelming at times but I like to learn so this is good. I swapped the gs1100 motor into my gs1000 frame this weekend and just have a few small things to take care of. runs and drives tho.

next step. nitrous. how much is to much? how much do i start with and how much has safely been used on a stock motor.

If you with go with No2 then set it up with 80hp shot then use a progressive controller to lower the power but 80hp is the most I would use on a stock motor. When you buy a kit throw the fuel pump in the corner and get a real fuel pump at least a 12lbs pump regulate it down to 8&9psi and use the same size No2 jet as fuel jet. 24n/24f should yield you around 80hp.
I going to use 26n/26f at 9lbs fuel pressure on my pro et bike should be good for around 100hp. But I will use a No2 controller to only use what I need to get to 8.20.

[rapidray]

FIRST thing, what year is your 1100 motor? If it is pre 83, it needs the crank welded & a heavy duty clutch hub before ANYTHING else!!! This is to keep it from killing itself!!!
Ray.

[trippivot]

DSC04379.jpg top mounts located at the rear of the engine -


you may want to consider the advice about welding a crank and beefing up the basket - early cranks go out of phase without power adders.

[jkrum87]

FIRST thing, what year is your 1100 motor? If it is pre 83, it needs the crank welded & a heavy duty clutch hub before ANYTHING else!!! This is to keep it from killing itself!!!
Ray.

it is a 1981. Yikes! i really wasnt looking to open the motor up. clutch upgrade is one thing, but im looking to see what the stock motor is capable of. what is entailed with welding the crank exactly?

[stetracer]

it is a 1981. Yikes! i really wasnt looking to open the motor up. clutch upgrade is one thing, but im looking to see what the stock motor is capable of. what is entailed with welding the crank exactly?

If you don't weld the crank, under cut the tranny and beef up the clutch basket then you can't drag race it.
Oh did I mention you don't weld a Bandit/GSXR crank. High 9.30's on a un touched bottom.

[trippivot]

Sorry Bud , I keep forgetting what it costs and all the details to sustain 140++ HP all motor GS - gosh, is it that easy to forget spending thousand after thousand,,, stet is making me wonder why my 89 gsxr 1100 has dust all over it.

it is a 1981. Yikes! i really wasnt looking to open the motor up. clutch upgrade is one thing, but im looking to see what the stock motor is capable of. what is entailed with welding the crank exactly?

[rapidray]

it is a 1981. Yikes! i really wasnt looking to open the motor up. clutch upgrade is one thing, but im looking to see what the stock motor is capable of. what is entailed with welding the crank exactly?

Remove the engine from the bike, remove top end, split the cases, box crank & ship to John Pearson in Ohio, Stan Gardner in Maine or Bob Mosher in Florida to have done CORRECTLY. Or you can run the one you have till it blows up, destroying the cases usually, & then start over & do it the right way the second time.
Ray,

[tbirdhd]

jkrum87 all I will say is you have 3 of the best guys giving you advice ,take it !!!!! don't get me wrong there is few more on here that will help and not steer you wrong, I would do as they say , or you will just spend money for no reason , I have been reading all I can from them on building a better motor ,

[jkrum87]

I appreciate all the advice from everyone. This is my first drag bike so im looking to keep costs to a minimal. im into the 1100 motor for $300 so frankly, if it blows, it blows.... However i would like to do things the right way. Im sure i can find another engine to rip apart and have the crank done, and at that point im sure plenty of other things will be upgraded as well. In the mean time, this motor only has 2050 miles on it. so can i use it in its stock form with stock clutch just to get used to launching and the feel of the bike before putting in the worked motor? or is this clutch just gonna blow if the tire gets traction?