new gs drag bike owner

[Guest]

Hello out there in gs land. I just found this website and its full of good answers. I just bought a 1985 gs 1150 drag bike. Has a few problem. Nothing too big I hope. Ive been searching for a few answers. I want to thank everyone in advance. The PO told me its a 1168cc with a mild cam and mk flat slide carbs. Not sure what size yet. Delay box. Air shifter. Air clutch. Lock up clutch and a schnitz pro series 2 box. Extended swingarm. Small tire and bars. Haven't raced it yet but I did scare myself around my neighborhood. I am excited.

1. What oil should I run. Its hot down here in texas
2. The forks on the bike seem to have about 1 inch of travel and they clunk and the end of the down stroke. Not sure what has been done to them.
3. The clutch cover with lock up spacer has a few stripped bolts. I assume I will have to heli coil them from what ive read on here, and should I use a gasket or just yamabond or equivalent.

Sorry for all the wondering.
Thanks again

Craig

[rapidray]

Welcome to the site Craig. I will tell you right now that drag racing is a whole new kind of drug for you & it is as bad as heroin!! LOL!! Feel free to call me at 714.356.784five & I will help you a bunch. I would use the Brad Penn 20/50 & you only need 3 quarts in the motor if its drag race only. I can help you with the forks & walk you thru what to look for & how to fix. They can be lower than your picture shows. Good looking 85 1150E!!
Ray.

[Steve]

Yep you caught "the man" himself.

Ray has been working on those engines for a LONG time, give him a call.

.

[trippivot]

good looking machine

I am sponsored by and use Spectro batch blended top grade motorcycle/ATV/snowmobile oils. 5W30 ATV product to be specific, and change it every 20 some minutes (or so) of running time. - used to use rotella - kendall - which is not the same any longer - The Bradd-Penn oil is good. in reality I also have used autozone or farm and fleet no name oil , which works fine. ANY OIL works better than no oil - I use K&N oil filters and barely 2 liters per. I also drop the oil pan every 3 or 4th change to inspect for metal - glue a magnet onto your oil pan - if you stick with this sport- you'll thank me for that tip. - do you know if your pick up tube has been turned to draw from the back of the engine?


get a helicoil installation kit for 6mm X 1.0mm - you will need a 1/4" drill bit , inserts and installation tool. practice because they do not install straight and square.


Put some oil in your forks - the hydraulic stopper needs fluid to keep the metal parts from bottoming out - unless you have coil bind or another mechanical issue inside your telescopic fork. . A few pounds of air pressure will help for the first 50% of suspension travel - My tubes are welded up (no air)- internally lowered and preloaded for approx. #600

[afdscotg]

Thanks for all the help so far. I got the forks apart with advice from Ray and the po has a 4" spacer on the dampner. I also learned from Ray that the motor is an 1100 bored out to 1168. I ordered new fork seals and will weld up the air holes on the forks. I hope that will solve my bottoming out issue. With 20wt. Oil I dont know the amount yet. I cant seem to find a service manual online. I will look harder later. Thanks again

[steve murdoch]

You should be able to find any repair manual here.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/