Dynojet quick shifter on GS 1150

[Guest]

Wondering if anybody has used a Dynojet quick shifter on a 1100 or 1150. I have used these on four fuel injected bikes I have owned in combination with power commander 5's and they work flawlessly for clutchless full throttle up shifts. Dynojet makes a stand alone shifter module part # 4-124 for use on 4 cylinder bikes with two coils with spade connectors. The shift module is programmable to become active above a selectable RPM and the kill time is programmable. The shift module uses a Dynojet shift sensor part # 4-114 to detect when you pull up on the shift lever. The shift sensor triggers the ignition kill module to kill the ignition coils for a programmable time ( I use 65 to 70 milliseconds usually). Result when set up properly is flawless full throttle clutchless up shifts without using an air shifter. Great for street bikes and it is easier on clutches and trans gears. They do not have ready made shift rods to install the shift sensor on these old GS's but you can adapt shift rod sensor adaptors from dynojet to make this work.

[Joe H]

Hi John,
maybe try posting it in the racing section to see if you get an answer
im curious myself now

[CivilRock]

I bought the 4-126 (slightly updated model to the 4-124) and just found a shift sensor for a deal.
I'm going to be installing this on my 1150 motor and I'll let you know how it goes. I have a GS1100 frame, ZX12 rearsets, and a GS1150 motor with reverse shifting, so I have a little fab work to do to just get the mechanical side of things sorted out.

I think I read somewhere that I can either hook it to the coils directly, or the orange wire from my Dyna 2000. For some reason I'm leaning toward the coils directly, just so there's no doubling up on systems. I'd love any advice on the subject.

-Kevin

[Rob S.]

So a quick shifter works by killing the ignition, correct?

How does an air shifter work?

[Joe H]

Both systems kill the ignition and or stop the fuel injection on the modern bikes.
Two types for the air shifter, air over air where a particular length of air tube is attached to a kill switch or with an electric module that is adjustable in micro seconds.

[CivilRock]

Last night I started looking at the linkage and where the "pull" sensor is going to go. I was looking forward to a nice little project that would keep me busy for a couple hours.
Unfortunately it only took me about 20 min. I was gifted this little mini lathe about 10 years ago in exchange for making a guy some supermoto wheel spacers, and I can't tell you how useful this thing is.
I use it probably 1x per month in my garage for all sorts of random projects. Tractor parts, motorcycle parts, kitchen sink parts, one off parts for work, etc. Amazing little tool. I can't imagine buying random lengths of shift linkage parts and trying to make something work just bolting stuff together.

This is where the sensor will go.


First cut to size.


Here's the cutting tools I need: Centering bit, 15/32 drill bit, and 6M x 1 tap.


First center the hole.


Drill it out.


I tapped it with the tap in the chock, then turned the lathe by hand. I only use the lathe to make sure the tap starts nice and straight.
Here it is in place and ready for wiring.


Another view:


This is an 1150 motor and ZX12 rearsets that I made to work. Lighter, cooler, sweeter.
I do run GP shift, or "Reverse" shifting, so you have to remember that this configuration "pulls" on the shift linkage when I upshift. The linkage part attached to the shift shaft (on the motor) is flipped upside down. I became accustomed to this type of shifting when I was roadracing, and even in my old age, I was able to re-learn how to shift in less than one day. It actually becomes pretty natural after a while, and makes me wonder why all bikes don't come this way from the factory.

Once I hook up the brains and give the bike a test run, I'll report back with how it works.

This new model 4-126 has the ability to adjust the pressure required to activate the switch, and also the duration of the "kill" for different RPMs. The default setting is 66ms for all RPM. Hopefully that works just fine, and I won't really have to make any fine tuning adjustments.

If you're wondering how this thing works: the Sensor (pictured) connects to the Brain box, a little cracker sized box with a bunch of wires coming off it. The other wires coming off the box connect to the signal wires on the coils and interrupt the signal for 66ms when the sensor is triggered. You hold the throttle wide open, in my case push the shifter down, the motor kills for 66ms, the bike shifts, and full power is resumed.
Let's say it takes me 200ms to shift manually. (2/10 or .200 sec.) and this makes it 66ms. (.66/10ths or .066 sec). I'm trying to get this 11.1 second bike below 10.9, and this is just part of the effort. It sounds so stupid now that I'm writing it out, but these are the things that a couple trips to the drag strip drive you to do. Plus I find the tinkering just as fun as the drag racing.

-Kevin

[CivilRock]

I just realized that jstewart, the OP, explains how this works in in the first post better than how I explained it.
Cheers!
-Kevin

[Rob S.]

...I find the tinkering just as fun as the drag racing.

-Kevin

I can understand that (I used to buy every gadget for my bikes and cars that I could afford, and have been intrigued by quick shifters since back when they were called air shifters).

But I love the clutch. I would never buy a sporty car that didn't have a clutch pedal.

[jimb12]

have been intrigued by quick shifters since back when they were called air shifters).

A quick shifter interrupts the ignition while the shifter is moved by the rider. The air shifter interrupts the ignition and moves the shifter as well. They are not the same.

[Rob S.]

A quick shifter interrupts the ignition while the shifter is moved by the rider. The air shifter interrupts the ignition and moves the shifter as well. They are not the same.

Thanks - I didn't know that. But are air shifters ever used anymore on modern bikes? Seems I don't hear about them much anymore.

[kingofvenus]

Thanks - I didn't know that. But are air shifters ever used anymore on modern bikes? Seems I don't hear about them much anymore.

Yes, on drag bikes. I've used both and in my opinion air shifters work better, and set-up right are easier on parts.

[madjack57754]

You need to check out Dale Walker holeshot quick shifter. http://www.holeshot.com/shifters/ps2.html

[CivilRock]

You need to check out Dale Walker holeshot quick shifter. http://www.holeshot.com/shifters/ps2.html

Pretty cool, and I'm glad I didn't find this earlier or I would have bought it. It's exactly what I imagined when I thought of a quickshifter, or how I'd build one.
The dynojet one is just a little more sophisticated. I paid about $100 more, but it's a little more robust and tunable. Maybe a little cleaner and more waterproof too.

Thanks for posting.
-Kevin

[CivilRock]

Got it all installed today. The kit comes with about 6 too many connectors. I used 4 of them, but simplified things.
Went for a test ride and it was boring. Perfect.

We'll see if it can help me cut a few 10ths off.

Kevin.