1982 GS1100 vs. 2011 FJR1300 vs. 2007 SV1000S

[trippivot]

twins don't accelerate mid-high like a line 4 - they have low-mid -so 330-1/8th will be good but at the 1/8th to top end = it is going to wheeze out.

g3 is cam motion my opinion towards tuning is not the same as others but that just means there is more than 1 way to get your bike accelerating like a rocket.


gearing is super important ! 17/50 is good but 52 will be closer to what you want for this competition- 16/50 may be way to unruly to launch without wheelie-ing .you have to experiment -chain length may be an issue. regardless...3.1or3.2 you need a wheelie bar but 1 way or another you need to flirt with hitting or holding redline at the stripe either in 4th or 5th gear - you have more than 1 gear choice

all the details you listed for the cam installation was not mandatory. I suggest a manual camchain adjuster no matter what, Drop in means that - bolt them to stock sprockets and set the 1-2-3 20 pin gap just like normal - pull the plugs and turn it over by hand - check intake valve to piston at 10 btdc intake exhaust at 10 atdc -overlap - set your lash - you'll see. just don't get overwhelmed - tune out all the timing rhetoric - more overlap kicks butt -too much is when special attention is necessary -

[wymple]

Unless you are all 3 pros at the strip, I'd put my money on the guy who gets in the most practice beforehand. Lots of faster bikes lose to superior riders.

[CivilRock]

I went camping this weekend with Mr. FJR and Mr. SV1k, and there was a lot of talk about who was going to come out ahead in this battle.
What we all agreed on is pretty much summed up with what Wymple stated above.

I'd put my money on the guy who gets in the most practice beforehand

We also agreed that once we establish who is fastest, that we're going to switch bikes and then see what happens. I think that will be VERY fun!
As long as they remember that my bike is GP shift.

-Kevin

[CivilRock]

I want to see if I can beat these guys without the cams. But they're surely going to get put into my bike at some point.

Done:
1. shift light
2. quickshifter
3. lowered rear end.
4. front tie down strap.
5. Towel Seat mod.
6. 3.25:1 ratio. 16/52
Towel Mod.jpg

[stetracer]

I want to see if I can beat these guys without the cams. But they're surely going to get put into my bike at some point.

Done:
1. shift light
2. quickshifter
3. lowered rear end.
4. front tie down strap.
5. Towel Seat mod.
6. 3.25:1 ratio. 16/52
[ATTACH=CONFIG]44606[/ATTACH]

thats some stout gearing. Practice out in the sticks and make sure your not running out of gears before the finish line. I like a 17t with the 52.
Your combination is begging for some cams

[stetracer]

We also agreed that once we establish who is fastest, that we're going to switch bikes and then see what happens. I think that will be VERY fun!
As long as they remember that my bike is GP shift.

-Kevin

so your quick shifter does not work without using your foot. You don't just push a button to get your next gear?
The biggest benefit of the air shifter and where it saves or cut down you et is the shift from first to second gear. If you getting a good launch it is next to impossible to get your feet to the pegs before the shift needs to happen.

[jimb12]

I think that you have a good chance of winning. The 10.9s that you quoted for their bikes are magazine times and it's unlikely that your buddies will actually run those times.

[CivilRock]

thats some stout gearing. Practice out in the sticks and make sure your not running out of gears before the finish line. I like a 17t with the 52.
Your combination is begging for some cams

I will try the 17/52 first, but I'm going to take the 16t front to the track with me. My calculations told me that I'd still be good at 3.25:1, but I make mistakes, and real world is always different.
I do want to do the cams. Just not yet. I want to take it a little at a time. Do you know where I can find a cheap good set? I saw a set sell on Ebay for $250 in the fall. The best price I can find it Schnitz Racing for $490.

so your quick shifter does not work without using your foot. You don't just push a button to get your next gear?
The biggest benefit of the air shifter and where it saves or cut down you et is the shift from first to second gear. If you getting a good launch it is next to impossible to get your feet to the pegs before the shift needs to happen.

Totally foot operated. Yes, I've experienced that. It's like doing a sit-up, pull-up, and a wheelie at the same time. I think with my "Towel Mod" I'll be able to hang on better. The GP shift is a little easier to get to the shifter because you push down to shift.

I think that you have a good chance of winning. The 10.9s that you quoted for their bikes are magazine times and it's unlikely that your buddies will actually run those times.

I hope you're right. I think it's awesome beating bikes 30 years newer.... Although I'd take the opportunity to own a FJR of any generation in .001 seconds.


Soon we'll find out. As soon as it stops raining in Portland for one weekend!
-Kevin

[CivilRock]

How'd you get your weight down so low (505)?

Rob,
I found my old notes when I actually weighed the bike. I did use a bath scale, and set the wheel that wasn't on the scale on some 2x4's so it was the same height.
It is a digital bath scale, and I have no idea how accurate it is. I'd like to think it's at least close. I'll put it on a certified scale pretty soon. Probably weigh it with little fuel.
I did ditch the stock footpegs (steel) which also have that giant triangle of aluminum to support he rear pegs (steel). I probably lost 5lbs with that mod.


W-base: 1569 mm*
Head: 62 deg.
Trail: 116 mm
Shock: 320 mm
Front: 254 lbs.
Rear: 261 lbs.
Total: 515 lbs. **


* Rear axle all the way forward.
** Full of fuel and all fluids. Ready to ride.
shifter side.jpg