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Found this while looking for synchs on the web. Looks like it might be worth a try. If I'm not mistaken all readings are taken from the no. 3 carb anyway. As long as the vacuum is not too high on our bikes this should work well. I'll leave this with ya.
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A variation of the cheap synchronizer suitable for the in-line fours can be made. 1x4x~6' board, meter stick, 1/4"clear tubing cut into 4 equal lengths, 1/4" caps, 1/4" nylon clamps, 1/4" black drip system fittings: two 90's & two Tees, 2-cycle oil.
The cheapy sychronizers work so long as you do the initial mechanical syncronization; if the carbs are way out of balance, the fluid will get sucked out of the tubing.
Bustedfeet. -
I tried it, didn't work for me. However, I didn't have the adapters. Instead of buying them for ~$20, I made some at work. All in all, I ended up spending ~$15.
Didn't work too well, so i just ordered the Mercury stix from CRC for $40. Would have been 1/2 that just for the adapters that come with the stix.Comment
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The cost comparison should be done, as with any tool. No adapters were needed for my old Jap bike: it has the 1/4" barbs on the carb holders. ;[o The cheapy tool worked in a pinch; getting one of the carb tuners is still the best way to go though.
Bustedfeet.Comment
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Why would the merc sticks be anybetter than the cheap oil one? Since all that really matters is the difference between the cylinders, I don't see why the merc one is actually any better, except that it looks better... IF you were trying to set all cylinders to an arbitrary mark of say, 18in HG, than the merc sticks are much better, but in general you're just trying to make all the same.Comment
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