my regulator modification

[Anonymous]

Some interesting R/R info here.

http://www.pngusa.net/~tdmoores/id20.htm

[whodatpat]

I am trying to do this conversion, but I am afraid to hook something up wrong and fry my system. What has me concerned is that the stock setup does not have all 3 stator wires going to the RR. Before I start rerouting stuff I?d like a second opinion. I have;

3 wires from Stator
Yellow ?(plugs into)?Yellow on RR
White/blue ?(plugs into)? White/blue on RR
White/green?(plugs into)? White/green on harness going under tank.

3 wires from Harness
White/green (this is the one that loops directly to the stator above)
Red ?(plugs into) ? Red on RR
White/red ?(plugs into)?White/red on RR

1 Black/white wire on RR is grounded to frame.

My newish RR from a Honda has;
3 Yellow
2 Red
2 Green
1 Black

Where do they go?

Please forgive the double post in Tips and tricks and Technical Help. I need help ASAP.
Thank you,
Patrick

[Sandy]

The white/green wire from the stator goes to the left handlebar switch in is controlled by the headlight on/off switch and goes back to the R/R via the white/red wire. This is most likely redundant as your headlight switch is probably locked in the on position anyway. It is OK and advisable to bypass this switch and connect the white/green wire directly to one of the yellow wires on the new R/R. Or to the white/red from the old R/R if it is still in use. It sounds like you have the same Honda R/R that I used with the extra red positive and extra green negative wires. If you scroll back up this thread you will see where I explain the correct way to connect the Honda R/R wires. If any of the bullet connectors aren?t in great shape take the time to replace these while you?re at it.

EDIT: Just read my previous post and here is a little more detail on exactly how I wired my GS1000. One red directly to the positive battery post and one to the existing red on the wiring harness. One green directly to the negative battery post and one to the frame. Three yellow wires to the three wires from the stator. The smaller gauge black wire I connected to the orange/white on the back of the fuse box. It has to be hooked to a switched power source and that was a tidy and convenient place.

[whodatpat]

I replaced the Rectifier with a 2003 Honda CBR 954 RR as follows:

850G Leads?????????Honda RR
Stator Yellow?????????RR Yellow
Stator White/blue??????RR Yellow
Stator White/green?????RR Yellow
Harness Red?????????RR Red
Battery +???????????RR Red
Battery -???????????RR Green
Frame Ground????????RR Green
Fuse box, keyed+??????RR Black
?Harness White/green???XX capped
?Harness White/red?????XX capped

Unfortunately, it did not seem to make a difference. At idle the battery shows something like 12.4 volts and at about 4k it shows 12.75 on the volt meter.
But now the turn signal flashes quickly at idle, but gives me a solid light when the bike is moving.
I will be rechecking the grounds for a good conection. Any chance those 2 capped wires are important? Headlight switch is High/Low and still works. Other than the new turn signal issue I dont see any "new" problems.
Patrick

[Anonymous]

can anyone tell me if this swap will work for a gs 450 my regulator just took a dump and it too has 4 wires coming out of it. a red wire, yellow wire,white/red stripe white/blue stripe if i could fix this cheaply that would be great!!!

[Anonymous]

If you have an older model (like my '78 GS400c) one of the stator wires goes to the headlight switch. It turns off one phase of the alternator when the headlight is turned off, in order to reduce the current through the regulator.

[Anonymous]

am I the only person that had a separate rectifier AND regulator?

[Anonymous]

Nope.When I got my 550 one of the 8 previous owners had replaced the rectifier with a Suzi reg/rectifier unit but then plugged it into the old regulator.Didn't last long........
Got the bike cheap as no one could fix the charging problem.One Honda unit and 90000 miles later she still charges fine on the original alternator.

[SqDancerLynn1]

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[braindead0]

I showed 11.9V at idle and 12.some at 5000 rpm. Too low. However, I'm sure that my battery was not fully charged so I am presently charging it. Will test again later.

That doesn't sound right at all, if the battery is not fully charged you should be hitting 14+ volts at 5000rpm.

[isaac]

Well I just replaced my 82 GS750's r/r with a shindengen 232-12 from a 78 Honda CB400A, and it seems to be working fine.

I used the
yellow - yellow
yellow - white/red
yellow - white/blue
red/white - red
black - switched orange on the bundle plug going into the fuse box
green - ground straight to the battery

...as was noted by the scotsman with 90,000 miles.

I only ran it for a few seconds in my garage because the door was closed, but the battery (which was fully charged by a tender just before I cranked it) was showing 13.3 volts after a few seconds at 4,000rpm, and was climbing at a rate of a tenth of a volt every 2 seconds or so.

I'll likely report back if it works better later. This may also have solved my blowing igniter problem. We'll see.

[isaac]

Yep, it's still working. The bike is now charging at 14.3 at idle and 15.4 at 7 grand. That's a huge improvement over the mid 13 volt charges I was getting across the board with the suzuki regulator.

[dpep]

No, it 's not working. It is overcharging. It should not go over 14.7/14.8. If you run it very far you will boil out your battery.

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm

[jhw84]

Mmm... boiled batterys... tasty...

But seriously... I have noticed that some people bypass the "headlight switch loop" and connect all 3 stator leads to the R/R, and others keep the stock configuration. Whats the difference? Do those of you that have the 3 stator leads to the R/R notice a difference in charging? And what happens if I turn off my headlight if its hooked up stock?

[SqDancerLynn1]

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