positive or negative effect on handling?

[Anonymous]

I don't think changin front and rear in opposite directions would change the CG as much as changing one side only. The CG would move forward a bit and down but the change in rake and trail should be checked. Might be scary at high speeds but would be a quick turner.

Chris

[Anonymous]

No offense but how can you say changing both would have less of an
effect then changing one? You'd be doubling the change if you did it
to both ends. CG is the balance point, imagine taking say a marble and
raising just the rear end then rolling the marble down the bike. Now
lower the front while keeping the rear end raised, the marble is gonna roll
faster because there is more of an angle. Streetfighter IMO is a backstreet
drag racer, if this is what you want, stretch it and lower it to win races.
Brian

[Anonymous]

scotty, what do you mean by your bike steers quiker? does it fall into corners?

That's basically what my ZRX does, the steering is considerably quicker than the GS's is. The GS's larger front wheel and forward hung axle make it steer into corners like a truck compared to the ZRX.

[Anonymous]

Keep the front and rear ends standard. If you want the kicked up streetfighter look on an older bike, angle the rear seat rails upwards. (beyond where you sit.) Shortening the rails and seat is also very effective.

You could also try GSXR/Bandit running gear, but it can take a bit of experimenting to get it feeling right.

My GSX1135EF has a Bandit front end and a Bandit rear wheel in a shorter than stock (for my bike) EXUP swing arm. It turns pretty quick and is stable at speed. A longer GSXR11 swing arm would make it turn slower The seat rails are kicked up about an inch and all the crap from beneath the rear light (fender etc) has been dumped in favor of a 9 x 2 1/2 inch number plate. All adding to the kicked up look.

So basically turn up the passenger seat rails and clear the clutter

[KennyJ]

Before you ride this thing, check your trail measurements. I think a 1.5 drop/1.5 raise might be close to eliminating any trail that is built into the stock frame and forks. With 0 or even + trail, you are asking to be spit into the pavement with little or no notice.

Hate to say this, but check out some of the chopper sites when it comes to trail, they explain it very well, and probably have some good stories on riding demons with poor geometry.

Kenny

[Anonymous]

I read about a guy who builds chopper front ends with 0 trail. You give him ALL the dimensions of everything and he builds it. When you install the front end, when you turn the bars the frame should remain stationary. Probably not a problem on a chopper, but would not be good for GS's. How's the bike coming along.

[QuaiChangKane]

Just do it.


Nobody here has tried it, so all we can do is tell you what theoretical impact it may have on your steering geometry.


Lowering your front end is a free modification. If you already have the longer shock, then you're out no money by trying it - but make sure to test it completely. Do some high-speed freeway miles making some rapid lane changes - make sure to try it over some rough patches at a good speed to watch for a tendancy to headshake. If you're satisfied with the results, then take it to the twisties and test out the handling there.

You may end up wanting a steering damper after all those mods, but the only way to tell is to test it out.

If lowering the front and raising the rear doesn't work out, take the advice on cutting the rear subframe down and welding on a new mount for a higher seat - by doing this, you can fit any newer sportbike seat unit.


Again - just do it. Aftewards, you may be able to offer info to someone else trying the same thing....


And keep us posted!

-Q!

[Anonymous]

Just do it.


Nobody here has tried it, so all we can do is tell you what theoretical impact it may have on your steering geometry.

Sorry to have to correct you, but I am speaking from experience. Both myself and my mates have been riding modified bikes all our adult lives. In my case 21 years.

Dropping the front and raising the back quickens the steering and changes the CG which can lead to an evil handling bike in the case of the heavy, slow steering GS550

If you have to use a steering damper then you have got it all wrong. Fix the handling properly in relation to the bike and you wont need one. Not on the road anyway

[Anonymous]

Just do it.

This is the way to go. But you have to be aware of what you are trying and possible consequences. Whoever said to try one change at a time is right. This is the way a race tuner does it and is the only way to truly know what each change does. Since you have installed the longer shocks already, try the stock front ride height and take a test ride. Go easy at first, and get more agressive as you gain confidence. Then try lowering your front ride height in 1/4" increments, with a test ride after each change. It is best to do a test loop that includes rough pavement and some other wobble inducing features. For me, the best is the long tar seams from cracks running down the road (not across). If I can ride straight down these without a wobble or twitch, it's good for me.

I have a buddy who runs +1.5" shocks on his Katana along with a 17" front wheel and 600 Katana forks, for about a 2" lower front. He has no problems with wobbles or instability at all. It just handles less like a truck.

Hate to say this, but check out some of the chopper sites when it comes to trail, they explain it very well, and probably have some good stories on riding demons with poor geometry.

That would be ANY chopper (the poor geometry part). They all handle like sh*t. Trail is necessary, but not nearly as critical as some people would have you think. There have been bikes built with 0 degree rake angle and <2" trail and they handle fine. GS's have so much rake and trail that taking some away is not really a big problem. Current sport bikes run ~23 deg rake and less than 4" (some closer to 3.5") trail stock and typically a track bike will get +10mm ride height in the rear to speed up the handling and reduce squat under acceleration, all without becoming a death trap to ride.

Be cautious and methodical and go slow and you will end up with much faster handling and no problems.

Mark

[Anonymous]

I've raised my rear 1 inch (GS 550 E) with progressive dampers and I think its about the maximum raise for the bike. I've didn't noticed any bad handling like quicker steering or other such stuff but the chain is very near some frame part when noone is sitting on the bike. The centerstand is still working but both wheels are on the ground while using it. The bike looks great with a higher rear but I'm not planning to lower the front. If anything I would like to raise the front as well.

[Nerobro]

http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/RakeEx/RakeEx.htm And a little work with geometry will let you figure out the changes to angle.