Nert's Famous Sync Screw Solution

[t3rmin]

Maybe it's just my bad luck, but that hot glue never sticks to anything you want it to. Don't think I'd waste my time.

Well I have my doubts but it was the only thing popping into my head and I figured it was worth a try, or at least it would spark some conversation and land me a better idea. And it did! ;-)

newbie alert..
..I've always used the blue medium strength loctite and never had any problems with the carbs going out of sync. Way easier than fiddling around with the lock nuts. I do apply a liberal amount to the tops of the thread though.
Just my two pence (or cents, depending upon where ya from) worth

Nate 8-[

Blue loctite + new screw with head and tension spring would be sure to work. It's my new mission in life to find the appropriate screw.

[t3rmin]

Anyone interested in a group buy or something if I can special order the right type of screw to implement the "spring and panhead screw" mod?

[bwringer]

Anyone interested in a group buy or something if I can special order the right type of screw to implement the "spring and panhead screw" mod?

Absolutely.

You'll need to scare up the springs, too. There's nothing that will work in the extensive selection at my local hardware stores, and it's impossible for me to figure out what will work from the simple printed specs at McMaster-Carr. ( http://mcmaster.com ) .

I also need to contact Nert to see if he's still interested in selling the materials for his conversion. Seems much easier than finding the stuff myself.

If you're using Loc-Tite, use the low strength green stuff instead of the medium-strength blue. It won't mangle the threads, and it's touted to penetrate the threads on assembled fasteners. The only problem is that you should probably let the bike sit for a couple of hours following a carb sync to let the thread lock goop set up.

[t3rmin]

Can anyone who's got immediate access to their bike give me the sizing on that screw? I won't be able to check it myself until this evening and I'm impatient to get some pricing.

*EDIT* I'm going to start a thread on this in the Tech section to get some more exposure and since this is more of a discussion than a tip now...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100721

[terry]

Terry
I agree, that was the direction i started in. I could not locate screws with the same thread pitch and thread count with the length and head style i needed. Decided to tension what was there instead with locally available and common hardware. No problems so far. And the modification isn't that tough. Yes the carbs need to be off. Some of us anal people do that anyway in the off season just to have our hands in her.

No worries mate, absolutely no offence intended, your idea works, and I can't fault your instructions, I wish all the instructions I read could be so clear, ha ha!

I'm an incredibly lazy bastard though, so I always look for the easiest way out, while still achieving the aim, of course, so if I don't have to pull something apart, drill, tap, etc, then I won't.

Metric screws are relatively easy to find here in "Metrificated" Oz, I'm thinking that a nice set of stainless steel "Allen head" screws might be the go, I think standard 5mm screws are .75 pitch, and fine are .50, but I'm guessing that they're .75.

I'll check it out tonight, I think I've got a spare set of carbs in a box somewhere? I was just going to pull an old set of carbs apart and take the springs off the idle mixture screws? Cheers, Terry.

[nert]

Well I have my doubts but it was the only thing popping into my head and I figured it was worth a try, or at least it would spark some conversation and land me a better idea. And it did! ;-)

I may be seeing this differant than most folks, but i'm with ya on the following.

Blue loctite + new screw with head and tension spring would be sure to work. It's my new mission in life to find the appropriate screw.

[Jethro]

I'll chime in with bwringer on this. I've got the tool, and while it does make the process manageable, it's still by no means as easy as it should be. Tightening that locknut always throws it off so you have to compensate...

Man, it sure seems flawless to me. Hooking up the vacumm lines takes all the time, a very slight touch with the screwdriver and locknut tightener is all it takes. I have never had a problem just barley seating the locknuts, I wouldn't be suprised i they have less than 1 or 2 inch lbs per.

But I have only used it on my 1100's, and it fits perfectly. If it didn't line up or fit well on another bike, it would be useless.