is it possible to patch carburetor diaphragm?

[Clone]

NO NO NEVER USE SEALALL ON ANYTHING BUT METAL.
It dries hard as a rock and is absolutely not flexible.

[jpaul]

FYI on the Goop products, they are all the same regardless of the tube they come in. The Seal-All is different, but I wouldn't recommend any of them for this application. They are competitors for some of our products, so I get to test them every few years. The solvents used are very similar to gasoline, so I wouldn't expect them to hold up in this type of application.

[focus frenzy]

I have found a medium small set of thin needle nose pliers work perfectly for getting that snap ring out.

did a bit of digging and found these at Northern tools.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200312727_200312727

[matt_gs450]

Alright! I ordered the pliers you linked above from Northern as well as the hemostat.

One of those is going to get that clip out. And if not, I'm sure I can find a use for the hemostat :-\"

Also, I will try the latex patch from the link, not the Seal All. Will report back in a couple weeks.

Thanks all,
Matt

[Jethro]

From the Madura site:

2583.1 In January of last year while checking the sync on my carbs, I noticed #1 & 3 cylinders, fluctuating badly on the mercury gauge, while 2 & 4 were steady as a rock at 18cm mercury. So, I started checking for vacuum leaks, and ended up finding them caused by very small tears in the slide diaphragms on the carbs.
After pricing replacements through Suzuki ($120.00 per slide assembly) I decided to create a repair that would work.
I've waited just over a year to post this, so I could be sure of the reliability factor.
The tears in the diaphragms were caused simply from the movement over time, causing a slight crease and weak spot in the rubber, which finally lead to a small hole. Both of my slides had holes not much larger than pin heads, but under vacuum, they caused leaking, hence the fluctuation, and lack of throttle response.
I made the repairs by buying a box of latex surgical gloves, a tube of clear silicone adhesive, an artists paint brush (with bristles 1/4" wide).
Remove the affected slide, and thoroughly clean the diaphragm with mild dish soap, warm water, a cotton ball or Q-tip, to remove any dirt, residue, etc, for good adhesion when applying the fix. Air dry with low air pressure or hair dryer.
Using one of the latex surgical gloves, (Note: these will have been coated with powder to make them easier to put on your hands. So you will need to wash them as you did the diaphragm to remove the powder) cut a small round patch out of the glove. I made mine 1/2" diameter.
Using the clear silicone and the artists brush, paint a thin even coat of silicone over and around the tear. place the patch you've mad over the tear, centering the patch over it. Wait approximately 30 minutes, then again using the brush, place a thin even layer of silicone over the patch, overlapping the edge of the patch a 1/16" or so. Allow the patched slides to dry overnight for complete adhesion, then reassemble and check carb adjustment.
As I said, I made this repair a little more than a year ago, and yesterday, I pulled the slide covers and using a strong magnifying glass (old eyes ya know) I found NO further deterioration of the diaphragms or the patches I made. And on the mercury gauge, the carbs are rock solid, with NO fluctuation. I've also since done this same repair to 2 Harleys, a Suzuki Cavalcade, and a Kaw Vulcan, all with the same reliable results.
Hope this saves some folks some money.

Jezuz, where the christmas were you 6 years ago Jim? Good tech tip!

[SqDancerLynn1]

What size is the slide ?? I have some from a 32mm GS850

[doctorgonzo]

Bumping because I did a variation of the rubber glove method today. I noticed a couple pin holes and small tears while doing a dip on my carbs. I had already gotten one good slide from chef, but I had two more with pin holes. I did the repair by using a thin coat of rubber tire patch cement and a tiny bit of a nitrile rubber glove as the patch. I then laid another coat of the cement on top of the patch. I'll let you guys know how it holds up.

[doctorgonzo]

Had to pull the carbs last night for a float problem, and after 500 miles the patches are holding.

[tkent02]

Had to pull the carbs last night for a float problem, and after 500 miles the patches are holding.

Is there even any fuel vapor smell around the diaphrams? I've only taken apart CVs that haven't been used or seen fuel for a while, but there's not supposed to be any gas in there, only air.
The only path for fuel to get to the diaphrams is up along the side of the slides, it is under a vacuum the other way, seems to me no gas would get there at all.
I would think any kind of glue would work permanently if this is true.

[doctorgonzo]

Is there even any fuel vapor smell around the diaphrams? I've only taken apart CVs that haven't been used or seen fuel for a while, but there's not supposed to be any gas in there, only air.
The only path for fuel to get to the diaphrams is up along the side of the slides, it is under a vacuum the other way, seems to me no gas would get there at all.
I would think any kind of glue would work permanently if this is true.

I think you're right. There SHOULDN'T be any fuel that gets to them. I used the nitrile rubber glove because I figured vapor, and tiny, tiny amounts of fuel, etc... COULD MAYBE get in there over time and the nitrile gloves had a better chance of holding up. I used the rubber tire cement because I figured it should give the best rubber to rubber bond and be flexible. so far so good. The larger problem was the top of one of the posts that holds the float pin broke off. I tried JB Weld and sitting in that gas bath in the float bowl it didn't last 15 minutes (yes I let it cure for 24 hours). That's why I had to pull the carbs again. This time I used super glue, and so far so good on that. If that doesn't work I'm not sure what to try next (besides a new carb body). Know anything that will hold up to sitting in gasoline?

[tkent02]

I think you're right. There SHOULDN'T be any fuel that gets to them. I used the nitrile rubber glove because I figured vapor, and tiny, tiny amounts of fuel, etc... COULD MAYBE get in there over time and the nitrile gloves had a better chance of holding up. I used the rubber tire cement because I figured it should give the best rubber to rubber bond and be flexible. so far so good. The larger problem was the top of one of the posts that holds the float pin broke off. I tried JB Weld and sitting in that gas bath in the float bowl it didn't last 15 minutes (yes I let it cure for 24 hours). That's why I had to pull the carbs again. This time I used super glue, and so far so good on that. If that doesn't work I'm not sure what to try next (besides a new carb body). Know anything that will hold up to sitting in gasoline?

Brass tube, there's a fix you can search for in a thread from about a year ago.

[doctorgonzo]

and here is it

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=121580&highlight=brass+tube

Mine is broken at the top. The break is roughly at the center point of the hole. I'll have to mount a tube and drill a hole for the pin.

[chef1366]

I have more slides and all 4 carb bodies. Tell me what you need.

[Matchless]

I think you're right. There SHOULDN'T be any fuel that gets to them. I used the nitrile rubber glove because I figured vapor, and tiny, tiny amounts of fuel, etc... COULD MAYBE get in there over time and the nitrile gloves had a better chance of holding up. I used the rubber tire cement because I figured it should give the best rubber to rubber bond and be flexible. so far so good. The larger problem was the top of one of the posts that holds the float pin broke off. I tried JB Weld and sitting in that gas bath in the float bowl it didn't last 15 minutes (yes I let it cure for 24 hours). That's why I had to pull the carbs again. This time I used super glue, and so far so good on that. If that doesn't work I'm not sure what to try next (besides a new carb body). Know anything that will hold up to sitting in gasoline?

doctorgonzo,
I recall a post in another forum where someone used the exact same procedure and found after many thousands of kilometers and a few years down the line that the repair was still good. I think he used silicon sealer and a piece of nitrile glove as well.
It seems as if it is a viable option if one cannot afford new parts.
The main issue is that that there is no fuel to deteriate the material and if the repair is done on the top side maybe even less chance of it happening.

[jimcor]

I remember reading on one of the pro carb rebuilder's ($$$) website that they use a marine grade epoxy for that repair. An adhesive you need exists, but no names or suppliers was mentioned. Time to google it, doc.

If worse comes to worse do what I did. Use one tower alone. I had to use a stainless steel rod (a length of old CB radio antenna) because it was thicker than the oem pin. After many thousands of miles I'd say the rig job was successful. But never park the bike on the sidestand just in case the float hangs up (has only happened once) and I imagine the float level is off a mite.