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**diesel** · 09-19-2006, 10:36 PM

Originally posted by audiphile View Post

My bike was standing for a few months. Finally got time to get it started.. Got a new battery, charged it up, cranked the starter for a little while and it started.. Ran rough for a few seconds, then smoothed out. I was very happy till I saw Fuel running out between what I believe are carbs 3 and 4 (right side of the bike).

I have the 4 separate K&N style filters on my bike so I'm not sure what else is missing. Can it be possible that I flooded the cyliders with fuel and that it escaped through the breather T adapter?

For some reason this adapted is turned so that it is facing down, and nothing is attached to it (nor the other one between carbs 1&2). I'm a little confused why the two nipples have nothing attaching to them, but the bike ran fine before..

Any ideas where the fuel may be coming from? it's only doing this when the bike's running, and it's pretty strong....

ALSO - there are three hoses coming out of the gas tank. Two from the valve and one from the fuel level sender. Only the two from the valve were plugged in, while the one from the sender was just hanging - could that be the issue? where is it supposed to go?

Sounds like a stuck float

IIRC there are Ts between 1&2 and 3&4 that handle overflow. The leak stops when the engine is off because the fuel supply valve closes. Fuel supply valves on most Suzuki models and certainly on yours are automatic. The smaller line to the supply valve is a vacuum line from one of the carbs. It is used to open the supply valve.

I think it is unlikely the hose from the sender unit is an issue. This line usually routes past the battery and ends about midway along the right side of the rear fender.

**audiphile** · 09-19-2006, 11:08 PM

Thanks for such a quick reply!!

so I have to remove the carbs and open them up huh.. any way to get the float "unstuck".

What's a newby to do? Bring it to the nearest shop?

**marvinsc** · 09-19-2006, 11:16 PM

Do NOT Take to the Nearest Shop. A Lot of Shops don't Like working on Older Bikes and It Shows! Post Here for advice from other GS owners in Your Area. In General an Established Shop with some Older Mechanics is a Likely Choice. There is a Lot of Expertise Here in the Tech. Forum if You want to Tackle it Yourself.

**audiphile** · 09-20-2006, 12:42 AM

I work on cars for years, but I've never seen a carb before

But I am not afraid - Maybe I'll get a rebuild kit and try this myself using the great picture article on the front page of this great site!

Will I need special tools?

**kilroy** · 09-20-2006, 01:50 AM

No special tools are needed.Take fuel lines off tank.Take apart 2 fuel sending unit wires.Take tank off.Unhook throttle and and choke linkage.Loosen up the front and rear carb boots and take the carbs out.Unscrew 4 bolts on the bottom of the questionable carb and take the the bowl off.Now look at the spring arm that the float rides on.Under that spring is a float needle.When you lift up on the float,the needle(little button) should go up with the float.If it doesn't,it is stuck.You will have to remove the float pivot rod,and get some carb cleaner inside that needle.Push on it a few times to get it loose,then once loose spray it again to get it cleaned out...reassemble.I am sure the guys will add to this,as i am sure i have missed something...when reassembling,the boots can be troublesome.Soapy water on the inside of the boots can work wonders...and may save you from cracking the boots.If this is your first time,i suggest you take pictures of each step.It helps out alot in reassembly!!Digital cameras rock...

**anikmankar** · 09-20-2006, 09:07 AM

check the float pin. Sometime if any dirt is stuck between the pin and the seat - till will not close the completly causing it to flood the chamber.

I usualy take them out blow some air to take it all out

**snarl** · 09-20-2006, 05:51 PM

What position was the petcock in?

**audiphile** · 09-20-2006, 08:01 PM

I think i put it to reserve.. Do you think I flooded the motor when I was cranking?? (but wouldn't the excess burn up once the engine fired up and ran for a minute before I noticed the leak?)

**diesel** · 09-20-2006, 10:56 PM

Originally posted by audiphile View Post

I think i put it to reserve.. Do you think I flooded the motor when I was cranking?? (but wouldn't the excess burn up once the engine fired up and ran for a minute before I noticed the leak?)

The fact that the leaking stops when the engine is off indicates fuel supply is either on or reserve. If the petcock were in prime it would just keep leaking.

I've seem some bikes (one I bought last year) that were fine for a new owner till they had to switch to reserve. Then they sucked some rust out of the tank and had carb problems. That's a possibility. Rust from the tank passed down to the carb and keeps the needle valve from closing.

If it were just a stuck float light tapping on the carb can sometimes fix that.
For example: I drain the carbs for the winter. The floats drop down opening the needle valve. Once when I turned the petcock to prime in the spring one float was stuck and the needle valve stayed open. Causing a problem similar to your problem. Light tapping on the carb bowl freed the float up and I had no more problem that year.

One word of caution. If you need to replace or repair the needle valve you'll have to remove the float. The float pivots on a pin. The pin can usually be easily be removed. If it is stuck you need to be careful not to break the carb body where the pin passes through. I 've used an automatic center punch (carefully) to break the pin free without damaging the carb body. (think that was a tip I saw on this list)

**audiphile** · 09-22-2006, 03:08 PM

Well,
thanks again for everyone who responded.

I ended up tapping the carbs and the bike stopped leaking fuel. I'll continue monitoring this to make sure it doesnt leak again..

but now I think I feel the clutch slip.. does anyone know where I can get a clutch kit for this bike, and if i need special tools to replace?

thanks!
Mike

**RIFLEMAN** · 09-22-2006, 04:33 PM

Hit eBay,always seems like someone has a set of new clutch fibers for sale.
Before you dive into the clutch,do you have freeplay at the lever? With a cable clutch,the lever should about 5-8mm of travel before you feel any resistance. If it doesn't,the cable maybe adjusted so tight that the cluch isn't actually fully engaging and causing your slippage.
When ya tear everything apart(no special tools required),lay out some paper or cardboard to lay the old parts out on. Take each part out and lay it in order. Check your new stuff against the old and re-install in reverse order. Also,as long as the steels aren't blued from overheating(which may mean they are warped),I like to take a little brake cleaner and some 220 grit wet/dry paper and break the glaze. Don't go crazy with the 220,just kiss the surface and hose off with the cleaner. Remember to soak the new fibers in the oil you intend to use in the motor overnight before you install them or they won't be new for long.

*NOTE OF MAJOR IMPORTANCE!*
This only works if the stuff you are replacing was installed correctly in the first place. Since you say the clutch is slipping,it would be best to make sure. Though unlikely,I have seen clutch that slipped due to incorrect assembly.
Get a service manual,preferably a gennie 'Zook manual so you can really see how its supposed to go together.
As for your carb problems,I have been buying carb parts for my 77 GS750 and 91 1100 Katana on eBay from aguy that uses the seller name: nisau.
This guy has rebuild kits,jets,gaskets and float valves for just about anything.
He is in New Zealand,but I usually receive my item in 7 days and the shipping is reasonable.
Tapping the bowl and "fixing" the problem may not last long. Sounds like your carbs are due for a good cleaning. You might consider cleaning and coating the inside of your tank. I have used the KREEM kit several times. Its effective,but labor and time intensive. I want to try a product from Sudco. You apparently pour it in the tank,slosh it around and,PRESTO,no rust and a clean tank. Also supposed to be absolutely 100% safe around your paint. They also claim that coating is unnecessary after the treatment. Now if I could just remember what it is calleed................

**SqDancerLynn1** · 09-22-2006, 04:41 PM

Their is an O ring on the needle seat. It drys out causing fuel leak.
You need to disassemble the carbs completely, Clean the carbs & replace ALL of the O rings

Make sure to clean the tank too!!!

**steely** · 09-23-2006, 11:59 PM

I just had the same problem on the other side of my bike last week. I found out that the floats were working properly, but the o-rings on the crossover tube between the #1 and #2 carb were flat. After replacing them with some new ones, the fuel leak has gone away.

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Can someone help a novice? Fuel/Carb problem

Can someone help a novice? Fuel/Carb problem

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