Putting my bike away for winter

[ShirleySerious]

It's getting really cold here and it's even supposed to snow on Thursday. I've decided to retire my bike for the season. I found a self storage place to keep it in, but is there anything I should know or do before I put it away?

[Planecrazy]

It's getting really cold here and it's even supposed to snow on Thursday. I've decided to retire my bike for the season. I found a self storage place to keep it in, but is there anything I should know or do before I put it away?

Blasphemy!! It's going to be lovely and in the 70's ESPECIALLY Thursday!! (Positive Mental Attitude, don'tcha know?) Either that or I'm living in a dreamworld!!

Anyway, either drain your tank and run the carbs dry OR fill the tank full and put the appropriate amount of "Stabil" into the tank AND make sure you run it through the carbs before parking it. I've done the latter many times over the years with my bikes, my lawnmower, chainsaw, etc. with no problems in the spring...

The advantage to keeping the tank full is that you minimize the chance of it rusting inside...

Regards,

[Planecrazy]

By the way, does this mean you're going to "wimp out" for the December "Toys for Tots" ride? A bunch of us GS'rs do it each year...

[Rocketman]

If you drain the tank, and run the carbs dry, do you also run the risk of the floats getting stuck down, and having to pull the float bowls and free up the floats in the Spring?

[KGB]

Never away dry.

Fill the tank to the rim, go to any auto parts store get a bottle of sta-bil.
Read how much for X gallons. and follow the directions.
After that check the air pressure, give the bike a good wash and polish.
Pull the battery, kiss her good night.

Not neccesarily in this order.........

[ShirleySerious]

It's too cold to ride during a Chicago winter. If it's not nice enough to ride at least 18 days out of a month, I put the bike away. With my bad circulation, I'm liable to lose a finger or two riding in the cold.

Anyway, the only way I know how to drain my tank is by letting the engine run, so that's not an option. So it's OK to just fill the tank and put some Stabil in it? Should I charge the battery periodically?

[Plasterdog]

Get a battery tender, it will maintain the charge without over charging.

But it's also going to warm up over the weekend :-)

You should also change oil and filter before storing.

But it's also going to warm up over the weekend :-)

But it's also going to warm up over the weekend :-)

Repeat ad nauseum.

[Jethro]

The only time I'll drain the tank and carbs is if I am planning on doing a rebuild of the carbs or paint work or something. If you drain the tank, make sure to spray a bunch of fogging oil in the tank every few weeks.

Best bet, stabilize the fuel, run it through the carbs for a few minutes. Leave it with a full tank. Pull the battery and charge it once a month or use a battery tender. And on every nice day throughout the winter, throw the battery in and take it for a spin.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Living in So.Cal, I've never had to store a bike so I'm no expert at it. You seem like you want or need the EASIEST methods to store your bike. Not ones that may be best but will take more work?
I agree with the full tank, Sta-bil and running through the carbs. Sounds good for the fuel system. You DON"T want to clean carbs when it warms up.
I wouldn't disconnect the battery unless you're positive you won't be coming out to start it from time to time. If my bike, I'd make a point to come out at least once a week and warm it up until the engine condensation is gone. Then I'd just go through a quick ritual of pulling in the clutch lever a few times, twisting the throttle, exercise the buttons/switches (ignition off is OK), pump the forks/shocks a few times to help the seals. With the bike on the centerstand, I'd even tap it into gear and let the wheel spin a bit and exercise the brake. In general, keep the parts moving and being lubed. I don't know how you are about placing the bike on the centerstand but it would help if you did. Makes it simple to do the above and it gets weight off the rear tire. You also should check the tires air pressure once every few weeks or what's necessary to keep them at a minimum 30 psi.
It may seem a lot but this ritual wouldn't take long. Maybe 7-8 minutes and a few minutes to add some air, mostly waiting for the condensation to leave.
Other than the above and just before parking it, I'd give any waxable parts a good coat and spray a little lube on the chain and other parts that can use it. Don't forget a couple of blankets to help with keeping moisture and dust off the bike. I'm assuming the bike will be out of the rain. I like the "hug" idea too.
If the battery still wants to slowly die even with the weekly warm up, I'd put a battery tender on it. If no tender, I guess you just have to hope the battery lasts or just forget the ritual thing, as far as a running engine is concerned and disconnect the battery.
Just remember, parts don't go bad from just wearing out, they also go bad from lack of use.
Come warm weather, warm it up good and drain/change the oil and filter.

[txironhead]

I once knew a guy that suspended his Rebel from a ceiling joist in his garage to keep the tires from developing flat spots. Considering this was in South Texas, where I rode 12/12 months, I asked him why he didn't just ride it around the block once every week or so. When he told me he didn't want to risk getting it wet I realized he was a weenie and went on my way.

Still seems like a hell of a lot of trouble just to prevent bald spots....he couldn't even classify as a RUB because it was a 250 Rebel......

I just don't understand some people.....

[ShirleySerious]

If the storage place is climate controlled, I might leave the battery in and charge it once in a while if there's an outlet available. If not, I have to disconnect the battery because it WILL freeze.

[EJMAMMO]

Every year lots and lots of people just come in from riding, push their bike over in a corner and walk away. They return in four or five months and wonder why their bike won't run... well DUH ! If you want that bike to work for you, you've got to take care of it. Let's take a look at how you do that.
·The Minimum
1. Gas rots, so you must put in fuel stabilizer and run the engine long enough to get it completely through the carbs. Then, either fill up the gas tank to full (to the bottom of the filler neck) with gas that has no alcohol (oxygenated) in it, and has the proper mix of fuel stabilizer in it. Or drain all of the gas out of the tank and spray some gas soluble oil on the inside of the tank to keep it from rusting. The choice is up to you. Either way is OK.
2. Drain all the gas out of the carbs. Most carbs have a drain screw on the bottom of the carb.
3. Take the battery out and, if necessary, add distilled water to it and clean off the outside (Battery Box Too) with a mixture of baking soda and water. Then put the battery on a trickle charger (No more than one AMP) and charge it till it is fully charged. Do this at least once a month, till you start riding again.
· The Maximum - Add The Following.
1. Wash and wax your Motorcycle.
2. Change the engine oil and oil filter.
3. Change ALL other oils and fluids, such as rear end oil, radiator fluid, brake fluid, etc.
4. Take out all the spark plugs and put about a tablespoon of engine oil down each spark plug hole. Now, before putting the spark plug(s) back in, turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil around the cylinder. Be sure and ground the spark plug wires when you do this. This is to protect the ignition system. Now reinstall the spark plug(s).
5. Use a breathable motorcycle cover to keep dust and moisture out. Plastic tarps that don't breath trap moisture in, causing rust.
· Something More
1. I like to put some type of water displacing, penetrating oil in each cylinder to sort of dry it out, before I put in the engine oil. Combustion makes a lot of water, and some of it always seems to get into the piston ring area.
2. I like to use some kind of Armor All type preservative on all plastic and rubber parts.
3. If you change the fluid in your bike's radiator, use distilled water and a motorcycle type anti-freeze. Car type anti-freezes use additives that can wear out your water pump.
4. If you change your brake or clutch fluid, use the type recommended for your system, Dot 3, 4, or 5. Which one? It's in your Shop Manual. You do have one, don't you?
5. It costs a bit more, but you can get a trickle charger that will shut off automatically when the battery is fully charged and start up again when it's charge goes down. You can leave it connected and on all the time.
6. Aluminum does rust...sort of, so an application of spray wax or the like, to all surfaces of the engine, wouldn't hurt.
7. Keep the bike in a dry, heated garage, if possible.
8. Once a month or so, turn the engine over a couple of times, to keep things loose and lubed!
9. Keep it in the dark... sunlight thru a window can fade paint and the like.
Hey folks, at least do the minimum. If you don't, you might get away with it once or twice, but sooner or later You Will Loose.
"As copied from: http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm"

[txironhead]

As an addition to the above, when you bring your bike out to start riding again, IT WILL STINK for awhile, especially if you sprayed something on the engine. This is normal and should go away. You can minimize the stench by washing the bike thoroughly before riding it. And if you sprayed oil in the cylinders (I like Marvel Mystery Oil myself) it will smoke for a short time. And if you Armor All'ed the seat, (this should be a no-brainer) make sure it's cleaned off so as not to be slippery.

[emjay]

In addition to stabil, I spray fogger in my cylinders through the spark plug holes. And if it gets really cold where you are, sometimes the seat plastic has been known to crack. If that's the case, remove the seat and battery and store someplace warmer with the battery on the tender.

My in-laws live in northern Maine where it'll get down to 40 below F for a few weeks. Strange things happen when it gets that cold.

[snark]

Here's what I do...and remember that I try to get the bike out at least once a month...but just in case...

Top the tank off and put in the Stabil at the gas station...the ride home will circulate it through the carbs.

Get her home and put the "permanent" Battery Tender connection on the battery...easy to unplug her and go if you get a nice day.

Put her on the centerstand and put a block of wood under the front of the frame to get the front tire off of the ground...or using my new toy...a motorcycle jack...just get the bike off of the ground somehow and make sure she is safe and secure with no danger of falling. Make sure the tires are up to preasure.

Make sure she is clean and dry and she'll be ready for spring.

Like I said, I try to ride any day that the weather is decent so I go for the fastest way to get her on the road. We get cold winters down here but after about a mile your numb and the cold doesn't bother you anymore.