rust prevention

[i57chevy]

I know that there is probably something here to help, so if someone can direct me. I'm looking for a way to keep parts from rerusting after the rust is removed. I guess from various steel parts. for instance the parts on the carbs that are not aluminum. once you remove the rust you remove the protectant. Is there something to treat it with or is it paint what you can and replace the rest? thanks for any help and/or redirection.

[txironhead]

There was a product listed on Trucks today that caught my eye, it's called Picklex...

http://www.picklex20.com/

Supposed to be the new cool stuff.....rust inhibitor, preventer, paintable, etc.

On my carbs I painted the braces and "joiner" rails, but painting linkages, etc. is problematic at best. Eastwood offers several "homebrew" products that allow you to cadmium, zinc, etc. plate parts at home, as well as a lot of spray-on, brush-on or dip products for rust prevention.

My personal preference is to clean the part all nice and shiny then give it a shot of Corrosion X. It's hard to find, I get mine from my aircraft mechanic brother. You can find it online or at industrial shops, too. Some body shops can order it or have it in stock. A spray can of the industrial strength is close to $30, but I've been using the same can for a couple years now. It's the ultimate lubricant, too, works great in the brake caliper "sliders" (the parts the caliper bolts to), I even use it as a cable lubricant. Liquid gold in a can. As a rust preventative it lasts a long time, a quick squirt once a year is all it takes. Doesn't work too well as chain lube unless you're in a pinch, though.

Hope this gives you a few options.

[t3rmin]

I usually mist stuff with WD-40 and the holds 'em for a while.

[i57chevy]

re

thanks. I clean the carb rails and the other non-aluminum parts free of rust and in a few weeks rusted again.

[txironhead]

Large non-moving parts like the rails that hold the carb "bank" together I normally clean really well with the wire wheel on my bench grinder then shoot with Dupli-color engine enamel. I paint mine black because I like the contrast, but they have several "natural metal" colors too, and it lasts a long time. I've also painted the carb caps and bowls with their "brushed aluminum" color and it looks great and lasts a long time. It's about the only spray paint I use anymore and it's worth every dime. Use some carb cleaner to degrease the part prior to painting and give it a couple of coats. Also, upgrading to stainless screws will help cut down on the rust, just make sure to use some anti-sieze on the threads. Plus, I try to run all Allen-head fasteners because the Philips strip out too easy so double bonus.

But the Corrosion X on the parts you can't paint will keep it from rusting for at least a year providing you don't have a fuel leak to wash it off. Don't know about the Picklex stuff, just heard of it and thought I'd mention it.

[bonanzadave]

[DimitriT]

Large non-moving parts like the rails that hold the carb "bank" together I normally clean really well with the wire wheel on my bench grinder then shoot with Dupli-color engine enamel.

A section of the pipes had the chrome ground off and would rust on me. I kept having to polish the rust off. Finally I polished it up, degreased it and shot it with some Dupli clear engine enamel. No rust after a year and you can't even tell. I've also used it on hex bolt heads which I've cleaned and reused. The heads typically rust once you've stripped the plating so I just hit them with the same stuff and that seems to work too.

[i57chevy]

re

Thanks for the info. It'll definately save me some headaches.

[Chris Bohane]

ACF 50 is the stuff to use.
All the vintage and classic restorers in the UK use it.
It's expensive but goes a long way.

[hp1000s]

Corrosion-X rocks, if you can find it. Cold galvanizing spray aerosol might work well for the linkages etc. Looks Ok around carbs, too.

[txironhead]

You can order Corrosion-X online, but the only places I've found locally that carry it are industrial supply stores and aviation distributors.

They also make specialty lubricants for fishing reels and guns, but I've found the original works just as well as long as you wipe the excess off. Hasn't harmed the blueing on my gun at all. And my brother won't use anything but Corrosion-X on his $300 fishing reels.

[rpickle]

POR-15 has a large line of rust stopping items. I have only used their gas tank kit. They sent their catalog along with the tank kit and it has some very interesting products. Their website has the items listed too.

Rick

[kurifu]

This POR-15 stuff looks really good, I am going to send them an email to say what they think about applying it to my exhaust pipes, I would like a good rust prevention for them, to get me through the winter when I intend to replace them.

[gsgeezer]

Don't spray silicone on anything you intend to paint, unless you are going to strip it or blast it.

Eastwood Products have a pretty good selection with decent prices, but there are plenty of places to buy stuff. They have great aluminum paint, works good on wheels but also linkages.