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For those of us with a plastic front fender on our bikes, there is a way to completely and harmlessly strip the paint and pinstriping off of them. Bulldog Flexible Bumper Paint Remover. Spray a good, thick, wet coating on the top and underside of the fender (will also remove paint from the metal bracket, but not as well), let it set for 5-7 minutes then hose it off. You'll be left with a nice, new white plastic fender with a bracket that probably has some paint left on it, but that is easily sanded off. Follow these directions and it will not harm the plastic! The remover is available at Wal-Mart for about $6.
HOWEVER, DO NOT use this product on the other plastic parts! It says on the can not to use on rigid plastics, for very good reason. I tested it on a spare tail extension (little part under the seat) I had laying around and it turned it into a sticky, pitted mess. It actually ate into the plastic.
For flexible plastics, this stuff is amazing. One application and the paint literally washed off of the fender, with a couple of little spots I scraped off with my fingernail. This stuff would probably work great on four wheelers and dirt bikes with flexible fenders. Just don't use it on rigid plastics!
For rigid plastics, I found a neat tip from the plastic modeler's website. Soak the plastic parts in full-strength Castrol Super Clean Degreaser, available at most auto parts stores. Do not get this stuff on your hands, it's potent! Won't harm the plastic and will strip almost any kind of paint. You have to soak the part for at least a full day in a sealed plastic container (easily found at dollar stores). A soft-bristle brush will clean the paint out of crevices easily. If you don't want to use such a caustic chemical, follow the same procedure using Dot 3 brake fluid, but let it set at least two days. I would have tried these procedures on my current bike, but the original paint was a good enough base once I removed the pinstriping using razorblades and Goo Gone. Some prep sanding and it's ready for primer.
Oh, and for those faded black parts like gauge housings and handlebar switches, forget the high-dollar replacements or "restoration" kits. Dupli-Color Black Vinyl Dye, applied in 2-3 thin coats, will bring the part back to like-new condition. Make sure to disassemble or carefully mask the gauges, and it's best to disassemble the switches (just don't lose any of the springs or ball bearings, and remember how it goes back together!). The white or chrome lettering can be renewed after the dye dries with careful application of a modeler's paint pen. I've used Testor's, but I haven't been able to find Testor's products in a while. This particular tip has been posted in the forums before and it works. Not my idea, but I'm very appreciative!
HOWEVER, DO NOT use this product on the other plastic parts! It says on the can not to use on rigid plastics, for very good reason. I tested it on a spare tail extension (little part under the seat) I had laying around and it turned it into a sticky, pitted mess. It actually ate into the plastic.
For flexible plastics, this stuff is amazing. One application and the paint literally washed off of the fender, with a couple of little spots I scraped off with my fingernail. This stuff would probably work great on four wheelers and dirt bikes with flexible fenders. Just don't use it on rigid plastics!
For rigid plastics, I found a neat tip from the plastic modeler's website. Soak the plastic parts in full-strength Castrol Super Clean Degreaser, available at most auto parts stores. Do not get this stuff on your hands, it's potent! Won't harm the plastic and will strip almost any kind of paint. You have to soak the part for at least a full day in a sealed plastic container (easily found at dollar stores). A soft-bristle brush will clean the paint out of crevices easily. If you don't want to use such a caustic chemical, follow the same procedure using Dot 3 brake fluid, but let it set at least two days. I would have tried these procedures on my current bike, but the original paint was a good enough base once I removed the pinstriping using razorblades and Goo Gone. Some prep sanding and it's ready for primer.
Oh, and for those faded black parts like gauge housings and handlebar switches, forget the high-dollar replacements or "restoration" kits. Dupli-Color Black Vinyl Dye, applied in 2-3 thin coats, will bring the part back to like-new condition. Make sure to disassemble or carefully mask the gauges, and it's best to disassemble the switches (just don't lose any of the springs or ball bearings, and remember how it goes back together!). The white or chrome lettering can be renewed after the dye dries with careful application of a modeler's paint pen. I've used Testor's, but I haven't been able to find Testor's products in a while. This particular tip has been posted in the forums before and it works. Not my idea, but I'm very appreciative!
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