Light switch cutting in and out on you?

[Hotblack]

I noticed this happening on my bike, which is NOT GOOD since I was told not to run it with the lights off (appears that my '79 has a later charging system and thus no provision for 'no load' operation). What I used to clear it up is tuner cleaner/lubricant, stuff originally intended for stereo tuners, but we guitar players use it on all kinds of potentiometers and swithes that become stiff or noisy or intermittent. Just spray it into the opening of the switch, cycle the switch a few times, and let it dry before using it. Careful though if you use Radio Shack's cleaner, as it comes out of the can with a LOT of force - you can end up with an eyful of it. Also make sure you use the cleaner/LUBRICANT, you DON'T want the cleaner/DEGREASER. Also some switch bodies are remote from the slot that the switch protrudes from (such as your directionals) and you might have to take the assembly apart to get to it. Sure is better than replacing switches though.

Ehh I hope no one's posted this already, I looked but didn't see it.

[Anonymous]

Re: Light switch cutting in and out on you?

I noticed this happening on my bike, which is NOT GOOD since I was told not to run it with the lights off (appears that my '79 has a later charging system and thus no provision for 'no load' operation). What I used to clear it up is tuner cleaner/lubricant, stuff originally intended for stereo tuners, but we guitar players use it on all kinds of potentiometers and swithes that become stiff or noisy or intermittent. Just spray it into the opening of the switch, cycle the switch a few times, and let it dry before using it. Careful though if you use Radio Shack's cleaner, as it comes out of the can with a LOT of force - you can end up with an eyful of it. Also make sure you use the cleaner/LUBRICANT, you DON'T want the cleaner/DEGREASER. Also some switch bodies are remote from the slot that the switch protrudes from (such as your directionals) and you might have to take the assembly apart to get to it. Sure is better than replacing switches though.
Ehh I hope no one's posted this already, I looked but didn't see it.

A thought is do we want to use a luricant spray in a switch?? Is it possible that the lubricant may be a conductor??

[Hotblack]

Good point, but the lubricant is designed to be non conductive without interfering with the contacts. They do tell tell you to wait before operating though, to allow the cleaner to evaporate, I guess that IS a conductor. I think switches and pots have lube in them when new, I've had old guitar knobs overheat and seize up on me from having no lubrication - this stuff clears it up. Of course I wouldn't post this advice without using my own bike as a guiea pig, I've not a peep out of it since last fall when I tried it.

[argonsagas]

Good point, but the lubricant is designed to be non conductive without interfering with the contacts. They do tell tell you to wait before operating though, to allow the cleaner to evaporate, I guess that IS a conductor. I think switches and pots have lube in them when new, I've had old guitar knobs overheat and seize up on me from having no lubrication - this stuff clears it up. Of course I wouldn't post this advice without using my own bike as a guiea pig, I've not a peep out of it since last fall when I tried it.

Visit Radio Shack and ask for a can of electronic spray contact cleaner./ TV tuner cleaner

It is designed for cleaning contacts on TVs and other electronic items.
It cleans off crud and leaves a lubricant film.

Yes, you should wait for the solvent to evaporate, but that is a brief time.