No special tool required to remove valve shims!

[Greg O.]

The "tool" worked great. I just checked my valves and need to replace some shims. I was concerned about the valve and piston clearance, so I was very careful when turning the engine. Once the valve is held open by the tool, I rotate the engine backwards to avoid the possibility of the piston hitting the valve. I am not sure just how close the piston comes to the valve in these engines, but I believe they are interferance valves.

Greg O.

[Jd Powell]

I must admit that I was sceptical of this idea. I have used the "correct" tool many times with complete success. However, the zip tie worked very well. I did however have to do one valve twice due to differing readings. Also the shim can be hard to separate from the bucket as there is nothing holding the bucket still. So while I do prefer the actual tool for doing a valve job, I would not hesitate to use it again in a pinch.

[lurch12_2000]

I have updated the hint with a footnote, thanks to Steve who pointed out the possibility of carbon particles lodging under the valve seat and thus maybe affecting a reading. Please update any copies you may have.

I'd like feedback as far as the plastic zip tie folded over and likelyhood of being able to dislodge carbon particles to hang up a valve to cause incorrect measurements? Try using a zip tie on an old valve and see if you can scrape anything off.
Also, because the valves are not held fully opened by the plastic zip tie I don't think they will hit the piston when turning the engine slowly by hand (if it is an interferance type engine??).
And last, yes the bucket will turn freely allowing you to spin it around for the opening facing inward thus allowing to get a small screwdriver to pop off and pull the shim out with tweezers. I did not have any problems with the bucket moving while doing this as the small flat head held it in place as I pulled it out with the tweezer.
Definitely take all your initial measurements before inserting any zip ties in the cylinders and moving shims around! But I assume you would have to do that anyway no matter what tool you use to start figuring out what shims may be needed. If by some chance carbon gets dislodged then your measurements will be on the high side or exceed .08mm. If you want to test then rotate crank, insert the zip tie, rotate crank, then pull shim out and put same one back in, rotate crank, pull tie out , rotate crank and see if any clearances changed.

[Matchless]

If you shine a light down the sparkplug hole with the piston at the top, you may get an indication as to what the inside of your engine looks like. Scraping a bit off with a screwdriver will also indicate if it would have been possible to dislodge some easily with a the cable tie. If its on the top of the piston its most likely the same next to the valves.
If you want to be sure, just recheck the valve clearance again after running the motor and cooling off.
I have been toying with the idea of blowing out the carbon using the water method, and may be trying it soon as my motor is quite carboned up.

[t3rmin]

I may have to try this on my XS, since I don't have a tool that'll fit that engine. Most XS people actually remove the cams...

[lurch12_2000]

I may have to try this on my XS, since I don't have a tool that'll fit that engine. Most XS people actually remove the cams...

Which reminds me, when I did my GS1100G valve shims I checked the 4 bolts on each side of both cams that hold them down. I noticed that a couple needed to be torqued down a little. Didn't know if this is mentioned in the steps in the manual. Only reason I thought of it was that I reading a post on this forum that mentioned upper engine damage from a cam loosening up from it's mounting and became paranoid with my old bike.
Anyone else do this?

[Suzuki_Don]

Which reminds me, when I did my GS1100G valve shims I checked the 4 bolts on each side of both cams that hold them down. I noticed that a couple needed to be torqued down a little. Didn't know if this is mentioned in the steps in the manual. Only reason I thought of it was that I reading a post on this forum that mentioned upper engine damage from a cam loosening up from it's mounting and became paranoid with my old bike.
Anyone else do this?

Yes. I opened up the top of my GS550B motor to replace the exhaust camshaft as the skew gear that drives the tacho cable had been wrecked by a PO. I found that the camshaft bearing cap over No. 4 cylinder had three of the 6mm bolts stripped and one bolt on the other side over No. 1 cylinder was also stripped. Pulled them out without using a spanner. I reckon someone was looking after me as I was doing 7 and 8 thousand revs earlier in the week. Would certainly have made a mess if the bearing cap had let go and the camshaft had come adrift. I now have the motor pulled down to the crankcase. New rings on order and head off to machine shop to recut seats so I can fit new valves purchased off Ebay and camshaft bearing cap holes to be drilled out so I can fit rethread thingos to the head.

P.S. When refitting cam bolts make sure there is no oil in the bolt holes from lubricating cam lobes and bearing surfaces otherwise you will strip the threads.

[Jd Powell]

Yes. I opened up the top of my GS550B motor to replace the exhaust camshaft as the skew gear that drives the tacho cable had been wrecked by a PO. I found that the camshaft bearing cap over No. 4 cylinder had three of the 6mm bolts stripped and one bolt on the other side over No. 1 cylinder was also stripped. Pulled them out without using a spanner. I reckon someone was looking after me as I was doing 7 and 8 thousand revs earlier in the week. Would certainly have made a mess if the bearing cap had let go and the camshaft had come adrift. I now have the motor pulled down to the crankcase. New rings on order and head off to machine shop to recut seats so I can fit new valves purchased off Ebay and camshaft bearing cap holes to be drilled out so I can fit rethread thingos to the head.

P.S. When refitting cam bolts make sure there is no oil in the bolt holes from lubricating cam lobes and bearing surfaces otherwise you will strip the threads.

My '80 1000G tossed its left hand exhaust cam cap a few weeks ago. I ended up having to bore and thread-insert all 16 cam cap bolts. But alls better now.

[Suzuki_Don]

Its funny, it always seems to happen on the exhaust cam. I had to pull the head off to do mine as I could not get the drill to line up with the inside holes as the frame rails were in the way.

[themess]

Personally, I have the tool. Its garbage. I find the method i was taught by another GSR much more effective, but a bit on the dangerous side (Only in the sense that you *could* screw up your timing if you arent paying attention) The tool simply got more in the way than anything else. And YES i was using it properly. Also, on the inside cylinders, its VERY frustrating, as it keeps sliping off the tappet. I think i did more scuffing to my cam caps than anything. Thats not to say others havent found success. And that the particular tool that I bought isnt garbage itself. It very well may be.

My experience with the tool has been acceptable - barely. At first I couldn't get it to work, but with some practice I can get the job done. The metal in the tool is very soft, and using it scraped off bits of metal, most of which were too small to remove. Generating iron filings near the camshart shouldn't be a part of a valve adjustment.

[beergood]

I just had to come inside and type this with greasy fingers: You are a genius.

I hope you continue to use your powers for good.

[TheCafeKid]

As i have posted on another thread... just a word of caution about this method. I have seen it used once, and used it myself once, and both times resulted in a head removal. The first time, the process, while i dont know that it solely caused, at least contributed to a broken valve. The second time, the zip tie BROKE, falling down in the cylinder, thus, head removal. Not saying it doesnt work, it worked for a couple cylinders on both occasions just fine before the mishaps, but *I* personally have seen bad luck with it, so i wont be trying it again.

[crookedspoon]

old thread — still interested: link to PDF in first post is dead. Can anyone please elaborate how the zip tie method actually works, please?

[Brendan W]

Thee are different cable or zip ties. I find the black ones brittle and use white.
Take a 5mm wide, approx tie and fold it in half. It needs to be about 250mm long initially. With a pliers make a 90 degree L at the folded end about 12-15 mm long. This is the part you slip under the valve head as it opens. Turn the cam to open the required valve. You will see the head appear in the spark plug hole. Insert the L at the end of the cable tie 'tool between the edge of the valve and the seat. Rotate the cam and the tie will prevent the valve closing leaving enough clearance at the cam lobe to extract the shim. At the first sign of wear on the cable tie replace it with another.

[tkent02]

Just search zip tie method.