Steering Head Race removal tool

[mikluha]

I'am thinking about making one of those from a piece of steel pipe. Can someone tell me the ID of the top race so I could pick the right pipe?
Thanks

I also wonder if you could use that idea on some conduit or copper pipe to make your own. A couple of bucks at the Home Despot for a one use tool could be worth the time saved.

[posplayr]

The ID doesn't matter

You need to make the pipe OD as small as possible so that the interior angle formed between pipe centerline and the bent fingers is as large as you can get it (i.e. small pipe is better). The bigger the angle the more likely you can get a good grip against the bearing race. This is the reason I just bent the bolt. The obvious problem will be the smaller the OD of the pipe the smaller the fingers will be (in width) and the weaker your tool will be. Unless you can find a very thin tube with really thick walls. This might be a PITA to slice the fingers though.

A piece of 1" steel pipe with 1/16" wall thickness would probably be strong enough that if you cut the tube to form the fingers the part would be able to drive the bearing without collapsing.

If the pipe were 2" and could still fit into the steering head tube, the angle would be too small and you could never get a bite on the bearing.

Reading the tool description, you are supposed to pull the tool thru the head tube so it also needs to be semi flexible so it can be pulled through.

Posplayr

Edit: 5/6/08 I was at Home Depot. It looks like the 1" galvanized electrical conduit would be a good choice. They only sell it in 10 ft sticks and since I did not need the tool I did not bother. I will see if my neighbor has a smaller piece.
Good Luck

[mikluha]

Thanks for the reply.
I atually think that the largest possible OD would be better because with a small angle your blows would be directed straight down rather than to the sides of the steering head. Plus you get stronger fingers.
I was thinking about making an edge on the outer surface of the fingers for better grip.

You need to make the pipe OD as small as possible so that the interior angle formed between pipe centerline and the bent fingers is as large as you can get it (i.e. small pipe is better). The bigger the angle the more likely you can get a good grip against the bearing race. This is the reason I just bent the bolt. The obvious problem will be the smaller the OD of the pipe the smaller the fingers will be (in width) and the weaker your tool will be. Unless you can find a very thin tube with really thick walls. This might be a PITA to slice the fingers though.

A piece of 1" steel pipe with 1/16" wall thickness would probably be strong enough that if you cut the tube to form the fingers the part would be able to drive the bearing without collapsing.

If the pipe were 2" and could still fit into the steering head tube, the angle would be too small and you could never get a bite on the bearing.

Reading the tool description, you are supposed to pull the tool thru the head tube so it also needs to be semi flexible so it can be pulled through.

Posplayr

Edit: 5/6/08 I was at Home Depot. It looks like the 1" galvanized electrical conduit would be a good choice. They only sell it in 10 ft sticks and since I did not need the tool I did not bother. I will see if my neighbor has a smaller piece.
Good Luck

[posplayr]

Well OK

but I think the reason the tool has the fingers expanding is in order to catch the edge of the race which has an ID that is larger than the head tube ID. If the bearing ID was smaller than the head tube you could just drop a straight pvc pipe section down and beat out the lower race.

Your bike may be different but this is how my GS1100ED is. The tools is trying to "make the bend" between the narrow tube ID to the wider bearing ID to catch a part of the race to knock out. For example if the OD was at the maximum of the head tube, you would not even touch the lower race.

When you get it apart you will see.

Posplayr

[Will_GSX]

Getting back to the first suggestion about the bent bolt.

Why not leave it straight, turn it around, put a nut on it, screw it all the way down then a big flat washer and another nut to tighten it all together. Now you force the washer into the edge of the bottom race by levering the bolt against the top of the steering head. Once the race starts to move a mm the washer will slide even further in and give you something to really hammer against.

Never failed for me and I've done hundreds of them. Just be careful not to put your fingers too far down the bolt. If the washer slips out your fingers will come down hard on the top of the frame and get sandwiched by rapidly descending the bolt head and hammer. Ouch!!

[posplayr]

Will_GSX

Sounds like that would work. I would have to probably buy the nuts, I just happened to grab the biggest bolt I could find in by box of bits, but would have been hard pressed to find matching nuts.

Anyway that sounds like a very good plan. A thick washer would likely not bend as it doesn't take a whole lot of tapping force to get it out.

Thanks for the idea: Got a pic?

Posplayr

[kichigai]

I appreciate tips on the creation of special tools. I on my way to the garage now to pull my lower bearing. Would be helpful too to know how you guys get the brearing and out of the stem too! Thanks Kich

[Will_GSX]

I appreciate tips on the creation of special tools. I on my way to the garage now to pull my lower bearing. Would be helpful too to know how you guys get the brearing and out of the stem too! Thanks Kich

I don't know of any secrets here.
Put it in the vice and GENTLY tap a flat headed screwdriver under the bottom of the bearing working your way around so it lifts evenly. A bit of heat might help but normally sets fire to the bearing grease and destroys any chance of re-using the lower rubber cover ( on some models) so it's more trouble than it's worth. Sometimes it's better to break the rollers and cage off first so you are just left with the inner race. In desperate circumstances I have GENTLY ground a thin spot on one side of the race to give it a weak point where it can break or stretch off but you need to be careful you don't go right through and mark the stem. The resulting rough spot could make future bearing fitments very difficult indeed as the bearing will jam on it causing distortion form the downward pressure and possible ruining it.

[terbang]

Speaking of different ways to skin a cat... Another method (that I've used a few times now) that works well - Get a hold of a 'stick' type arc welder, and some general welding rods. Run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race that you want to remove (ALL the way!), being careful NOT to weld the race to the frame - let it cool, and if it doesn't just drop out of it's own accord, the weld will give you something to get the end of a drift/punch to catch on, and a couple of taps, and the race will drop out! Note that you shouldn't leave it untill it's cold - just till it's cooled down a bit.

Be aware that you need to remove all traces of grease from the area first!

Thats the way I do it, works fine.

[kichigai]

Will_gsx,

I took your advice and welded a bead on the bearing race then took a long screwdriver with a bent tip and tapped on the bead while still warm. Wala, it came out!

The inner bearing race on the stem came out too by cutting a diagonal line with a high speed grinder and a cutting wheel. Then I used a chisel and worked the race off of the stem.It was a pain in the butt but it worked.

[posplayr]

yet another tool

http://www.1100katana.com/technical/wheels/steering_head_bearing_puller.html

[ukilme]

Well, now I see this thread after my battle with my lower race

Anyways, great ideas.

[portdave]

Hey Jim,

Nice. Last time I did it, (when you helped with all your advice. Thank you very much.) I used a old railroad spike. I have a few of them around of different sizes and since they are super strong and wide they caught the edge at the bottom nicely. Not sure if they would work with other apps but did well for the 1100E triple. I also used some all thread, large washers and nuts to put the new races back in. Worked great.

[posplayr]

Hey Jim,

Nice. Last time I did it, (when you helped with all your advice. Thank you very much.) I used a old railroad spike. I have a few of them around of different sizes and since they are super strong and wide they caught the edge at the bottom nicely. Not sure if they would work with other apps but did well for the 1100E triple. I also used some all thread, large washers and nuts to put the new races back in. Worked great.

Dave,
Glad it all worked out. Knocking out the race seems so simple now. The start of this thread seems so long ago as well.
Jim