Removing the Alternator rotor etc

[JemRay]

Can anyone help?
I cannot remove the alt rotor and starter motor clutch.
I have tried all the tricks suggested in the Haynes manual and it wont budge

My bike is a GS 1000 S/N

Thanks

[posplayr]

Anti PITA suggestions

While my GS750 starter clutch/rotor almost fell off will a little prodding, the GS1100ED's was hell :shock:.


A.) Get the correct puller for your bike; see this link for alternatives

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=123184


B.) Use heat to melt the loctite that is holding it on. Propane is not hot enough. MAPP gas is much hotter and recommended by some local shops and it worked for me on my GS1100ED.

http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/3454-0-1.html

Don't get the magnets too hot ; concentrate on the hub.

C.) Use a two big wrenches on for the puller and one to hold the hub. I had to use one under my foot and two hands on the breaker bar. I also had an air wehnch but that only worked to get the nut off.

D.) Replace anything that doesn't look perfect in the starter clutch because it is a pita to get off. You don't want to have to do this again.

E.) RapidRay has suggesting the way to eliminate starter clutch problems in the future is to rewire your starter switch in parallel with the kill switch. This way you can keep the kill switch off and get the motor cranking (but not firing) before you turn on the ignition and start the bike. He does this with high compression race engines and he says it solves engine kick back problems that can damage the starter clutch.

Good Luck

Posplayr

[bleeble]

E.) RapidRay has suggesting the way to eliminate starter clutch problems in the future is to rewire your starter switch in parallel with the kill switch. This way you can keep the kill switch off and get the motor cranking (but not firing) before you turn on the ignition and start the bike. He does this with high compression race engines and he says it solves engine kick back problems that can damage the starter clutch.

Noob question: What's the engine kick back problem?

Sorry about the off-topic question, I'm just curious.

[posplayr]

I have not done it but according to RapidRay

One of the most detrimental factors to your starter clutch is to have the motor start to turn over and have a cylinder fire and cause the engine to reverse (i.e kick back). I understood that was very common on hi perf engines with high compression but I recently had my GS750 kind of do the same thing. I got a nice loud crack out of the clutch. It's still doing all right, but this is something I'm seriously considering doing on my 10:1 compression GS1100ED.

Posplayr

[posplayr]

This link relates to this topic

A work in process...
Stay tuned

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123877

Posplayr

[hillhopper]

Rotor and starter clutch

Jammed clutch on my ´86 GS 550 TSCC (ES). Have been on the phone with shop service folks. Bought a center screw for a puller, but the outer rig is still missing. Considered making one from a piece of stock and tapping that but tools are missing. Damn oil crisis is ruining everything. The ´78 Yamaha SR500 rotor is similar and a tool makes it a snap. This rig is jammed like the above post states. From the left side, the rotor rotation is ccw. If the lockdown nut on the shaft is right hand thread, rotation would also lock the nut. If left hand, it turns off the same way, (ccw) I use a six inch C-clamp on the rotor and lock the rear wheel also while trying to loosen the nut. Still on there as of this writing. Time to watch ¨Road Warrior¨ again. Maybe a museum will find this interesting...:-(

[omaharj]

Impact wrench.IMPACT WRENCH.gOT MINE AT HARBOR FREIGHT FOR ABOUT $25-30.Sorry for the shouting. I wouldn't dream of trying to get that $#@% nut off the rotor without one. BTW it's electric.


RJ

PS if you have used the search feature, my adventure should have come up.hehe