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My experiences with Por-15

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    My experiences with Por-15

    I have had a couple of people ask me question about using Por-15. I am not the first user obviously so anyone else with other opinions please chime in.

    As an initial work of caution, test out the product on some small stuff. Learn how it works. It is difficult to get off to redo short of sand blasting or resanding. It is actually easy to work with but it is not rattle can paint and products so learn it and your equipment before starting to spray the engine for example. It will be less frustrating and (IMHO) the results will be superior.


    First, Por 15 is more expensive, but for the time/effort/Labor involved in prep work, I can't see much benefit in NOT using the best paint you can get. Por-15 makes several products (check out their website).

    Explore POR-15's extensive range of restoration products, perfect for bringing new life to any vehicle with superior performance and quality. Order online now!


    I don't know if Por-15 is better that powdercoating, it might be because you control it , don't need the heat ovens (the paint curing is water activated) and you can still repair it. With the Por-15 rust inhibitor paint you are supposed to be able to seal in any rust and prevent any further corrosion/rust/oxidation. As paint it is the best I have ever used. Actually it really doesn't compare to any rattle can paint I have used. Por-15 is much better!! Thicker, Harder, Flows Better.

    So far I sparyed my engine with the Por-15 rust inhibiting paint and the Black engine paint. It is a very thick and wet black looking paint. You do the Por-15 first and within about 4-5 hours finish with the engine paint. If you want something more OEM looking get some "Magic Black" and top coat it for a final semi gloss look.

    I have also used the manifold repair kit on some old vintage Yoshimura 4:1 exhaust. It is turning out pretty well (after sandblasting) except I did most of the finish by brush and I need to respray for a cleaner top coat. I did this before getting teh gun. I used the high heat filler material as well to fill some road rash. It is a different product and does not seem to be as hard, but it has not been cured yet either so don't know yet, but I'm not using anything else and will go to new V&H chrome models if this doesn't work.

    I plan on getting the engine aluminum to paint my GS1100ED frame silver. I'm going to setup a little paint booth. I also bought the clear and assume it is a good product but have not used it yet.

    I will use an automotive PPG paint for the body/tank/fairing so won't use it there. Checkout the products there are several depending on what you are trying to do and the colors you want.

    REMEMBER The corrosion inhibiting Por-5 is UV sensitive so it has to be covered. In this case I used the engine paint. I could have used something else.

    There is also a Por-15 "Hard Nose" paint that is supposed to be that, but the colors are more limited but Black, Dark Gray and Light Gray are avaliable.

    When I first got the sample kit, I used a paint brush and it is remarkable how well the paint smooths out after using a foam brush, but you just don't get the coverage and it is nearly impossible to avoid drips at the bottoms of the surfaces, and the paint is really hard. So the only thing where the Por-15 worked well was on my frame near the battery box where I did not want to spray, and so I brushed it on.

    Later I came back and sprayed with a rattle can to improve the finish from brushing.

    When you paint with Por-15 put a bolt into any threaded holes or you will have to rerun a tap or thread chaser to get the Por-15 paint off as the threads; the bolt will not cut the por-15 in the threads (actually I don't even know if the thread chaser will but it but I have to assume so). I know that I now have some very stiff frame bolts that are only starting to loosen after repeated bolt removals.

    On my valve cover I taped off the Tach gear housing, but some paoint got into the hole and so I'm going to have to scrape it out as teh housing is really tight getting in. Not a problem for here and there but you dont want to find this out and have to chase threads on 100 bolt holes in your engine block.

    I would strongly suggest getting a cheap Harbor Freight touchup sprayer for the Por-15. Practice a little with a cheaper paint so you know how to control your compressor and gun. I bought two different guns Both guns have nice small cups that you fill to about 2/3 and you get a massive amount of coverage

    Touch-Up Spray Gun Item #00086 (about $20) 7 oz cup

    This looks like a nice gun, but for me it spit a lot. Even when I used pure thinner through the gun. I'll use it to paint a fence.


    Adjustable Mini Detail Spray Gun Item #92126 about $15) 4 oz cup

    This gun is cheaper and is part of the "Professional Series". It seems much more adjustable and performed much better. When I sprayed it responded well to all of the adjustments defined in the manual. I would stay away from the #00086 and only use the #92126 or something small that you already have. Nothing special required here you just want something that a 120V compressor can keep up with. These sprayers need about 20-50 psi working pressure. The Pro model is 3 CFM at 50 psi.

    In the pictures you can see some significant orange peel. I was doing this is a race with a rain Storm at nite and could not see exactly what I was doing. I will repaint all of the covers after the motor is back in the bike. The Pro sprayer doesn't have the same problem. I used it for some "Stirling Silver" medium gloss silver/aluminum paint I sprayed on the GS750 valve cover and it is a very nice natural aluminum looking paint. Not nearly as glossy as the engine paint. Once my GS1100ED is back together I will use that on the whole GS750EX engine.

    For an engine of this size you will make a pretty good mess if you do anything buy spray it.

    Posplayr

    1983 GS1100ED blacked out engine





    #2
    One word Pos -


    W:shock:W!!!!!!

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks

      posplayr - Thanks for taking the time to address my question. A buddy of mine is completely sold on POS products. He did a complete restoration on a 69 Camaro - used por on the frame. Thats where I first saw the finished product. Looked like a new frame. He did paint a scrap piece first - he handed me the test piece and a very large hammer and told me to TRY and chip the paint. We both wailed on that poor little test piece. We couldnt chip it no matter how hard we tried. Amazing stuff. Thanks
      85 1150E

      Comment


        #4
        well, this is off the subject a little, but i por'ed my tank this winter. my advice: find something other than duct tape to seal the holes when you are sloshing the cleaners around in there. i used some pretty high grade stuff, and it still melted the adhesive. it was fine with the epoxy, but the cleaners called for something else. corks?

        anyway, good stuff, and the tank looks GREAT.
        1983 GS 1100 ESD :D

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by greg78gs750 View Post
          well, this is off the subject a little, but i por'ed my tank this winter. my advice: find something other than duct tape to seal the holes when you are sloshing the cleaners around in there. i used some pretty high grade stuff, and it still melted the adhesive. it was fine with the epoxy, but the cleaners called for something else. corks?

          anyway, good stuff, and the tank looks GREAT.
          I read this post earlier and only have experience with POR15 .
          You're dead on with the duct tape.
          I did a ebay tank on got for my Concours 2 weeks ago.Fuel gauge hole stayed sealed but the damn petcock tape always came off. Maybe a expanable neoprane plug would work.
          I think the caustic nature of the cleaner may break down a cork.
          I had options for which tank kit to buy but decided on POR.
          Really glad I did. I have a 1100E tank that had been kreemed but really impress whic the POR15 setup.
          Besides the duct tape problem, well worth the money and a great company
          Doug aka crag antler

          83GS1100E, gone
          2000 Kawasaki Concours
          Please wear ATGATT

          Comment


            #6
            Follow up and related

            Related link



            Also I'm not quite sold yet on any gas tank treatment unless you have to. Both my tanks are only light (GS750EX) and slightly (GS1100ED) rusted. Electrolysis trick would easily remove all.

            I have a parts bike which was treated many years ago and the rust continued to grow underneath the coating (creamer colored but no idea of brand) and so there are holes rusted through and although from the top it looks OK, it is not salvageable. This bike probably sat with an empty tank for many years as it was last registered in 1986.

            Rapid Ray also suggested to use it as a "measure of last resort" rather than a preventative measure so I'll just wait on tank tank liner treatments although I have the Por-15 tank treatment stuff sitting on the shelf.

            Posplayr
            Last edited by posplayr; 04-19-2008, 04:18 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              Related link



              Also I'm not quite sold yet on any gas tank treatment unless you have to. Both my tanks are only light (GS750EX) and slightly (GS1100ED) rusted. Electrolysis trick would easily remove all.

              I have a parts bike which was treated many years ago and the rust continued to grow underneath the coating (creamer colored but no idea of brand) and so there are holes rusted through and although from the top it looks OK, it is not salvageable. This bike probably sat with an empty tank for many years as it was last registered in 1986.

              Rapid Ray also suggested to sue it as a measure of last resort rather than a preventative measure so I'll just wait on tank tank liner treatments although I have the Por-15 tank treatment stuff sitting on the shelf.

              Posplayr
              The only reason I PORed the tank I bought was for preventive maintenance.
              It didn't have any rust in it but Concours are prone to rust out on the lower parts of the tanks,ask me how I know:?
              Now I should be set for life\\/
              Last edited by crag antler; 04-19-2008, 03:24 PM. Reason: typo
              Doug aka crag antler

              83GS1100E, gone
              2000 Kawasaki Concours
              Please wear ATGATT

              Comment


                #8
                Dude, your engine looks HOT. That's nice! I'm kicking myself for not doing this when I had the engine off, even though mine wasn't black originally

                Comment


                  #9
                  i am currently doing my frame on my 78 1000e with por15 and its great stuff

                  holds up very well and is good quality stuff

                  i did the whole underside of my 65 stang 6 years ago and it still looks fresh when you wipe it off...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    a military friend of mine.... was stationed here at offutt, and he painted a piece of steel with the por15, then buried it under a drainage spout by his house.....

                    he got stationed in hawaii, for 4 years, then came back and dug it up....

                    after cleaning it up it was still shiny and new looking.... if that says anything at all

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I can only add one thing. Do not use "normal" POR to paint your headers... Because when you start your bike it will burn, smoke, flake off while causing you to gag and your eyes to burn.... Ask me how I know. ](*,)
                      2010 Honda VFR1200F
                      1983 Suzuki GS750T (sold)
                      Being Revisited
                      1981 Honda CM400T
                      http://www.bikepics.com/members/cloudbreakmd/

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Por-15 High heat

                        I'm putting this onto my Vintage Yoshimura 4:1.




                        I could also go this way, but was looking for more contrast with the engine and the heat range is 200 degrees higher for the grey.




                        Looks very thick compared to most high heat paints. Will post once it is on and had a chance to cure.


                        Posplayr

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Bump

                          I had started a thread in the performance section because of all of the engine work I had. I have pulled the frame apart and am doing restoration now I would guess. See all the new pretty Por paint...





                          Posplayr

                          Comment


                            #14
                            When you sprayed the POR 15 did you have to thin it?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Spraying

                              Yes I typically use the Por Thinner to get a pretty runny consistency. The instructions say to use about 35-40 psi so, I have my regulator at about 45 psi as it seems to flow better. Maybe that is because it is too thick still.

                              There is significant variation in the consistency of the Por products. The Engine aluminum is pretty runny but seems to need to be real runny to get a nicer finish. I got into a tricky problem with the aluminum with trying to get a wet finish while avoiding runs. (pretty tough). I'm going to do a final wet sand and coat it with the Glisten PC to improve the finish.



                              The Olds Gold was really thick with a whole lot of pigment, so I really had to thin that down.

                              What I'm doing may seem like a lot of trouble, but compared to how much screwing around there is using a brush, it is a slam dunck to use teh sprayer. The little Harbor Feight touch up gun (get the right one), has a small container and is well suited for the smaller batches of the Por-15 product. The Coverage seems to be excellent and is much better than brush on.

                              I'm also planning on doing the body using a PPG product.

                              Posplayr

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