ghetto manometer!

[Dogma]

as they said before, if it's all 4 carbs at once you'll need T connectors and probably a regulator. you would take 4 tubes that are long, and 4 peices long enough to route to your vac port on each carb. take each of the 4 long lengths, put an equal amount of fluid into it, and then attach a T connector to each side. connect the second single length to the vac port to the ither side of the t, and then to the carb. rinse, repeat. i would think.( could be totally wrong. )

Or you could terminate all 4 in a can sitting at about the height you want to read your levels. Or in the quart of oil you're going to use, so you can drain it right back in there when you're done.

[Steve]

Dogma has the idea there, you really need each cylinder to pull againt a reservoir, not against another cylinder.

.

[catbed]

two tubes --> "T" fitting --> short tube --> "T" Fitting --> two tubes

hope that explains it.

[Colorado CJ]

Would this work? Make the vertical rise around 4 feet so that the engine won't suck the oil into it. In the picture below, the 4 tubes would be extended and attached to the intakes.

[Captainkirk]

Or, you could just buy one.......

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/syncpro%3Csup%3Eandtrade;%3C-sup%3E/

[seuadr]

Or, you could just buy one.......
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...de;%3C-sup%3E/

i'd rather save 80 dollars and buy the parts myself

[Colorado CJ]

Or, you could just buy one.......
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...de;%3C-sup%3E/

That would be nice, but I'm on a tight budget. I'd rather spend $5.00 of a home made one and use that $99.00 on a new front tire! :-D

[Muser3]

Ghetto Mano

If you use four tubes stuck into a can of oil be sure that you have several feet of vertical tubing above the oil can.
The reason you need so much length is because the oil or water that you will be using is much lighter than mercury.
I think that an inch of mercury is equal to a foot of water, which is heavier than oil. So if you see 3 or 4 inches on mercury on your carb stix you would be seeing 3 or 4 feet of water and slightly more if you use oil. It is very good to see all four at one time, but for me it works fine to compare 3 to 1, 3 to 2 and 3 to 4.
Here's an old link:
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/l...hp/t16200.html

Whatever you do, be ready to hit the kill switch to avoid pulling the liquid into the engine. It is possible though not very likely to lock the engine and cause serious damage to the rods, crank, etc.

[seuadr]

well, got to ride it today, and also got to test the vaccume with a traditional mercury setup, it was very very close, so yay for that. one thing i didn notice though is its still a bit lean. i guess it's time to ajust the needles in the top of the carbs.

[tkent02]

If you use four tubes stuck into a can of oil be sure that you have several feet of vertical tubing above the oil can.
The reason you need so much length is because the oil or water that you will be using is much lighter than mercury.

Not necessary if the oil can is not vented.

[Captainkirk]

i'd rather save 80 dollars and buy the parts myself

Not downing anyone here, so don't take it that way, but frequent attendance at the School of Hard Knox has taught me that (unless you're Smokey Yunick) cobbling together home-brewed equipment usually results in predictable results, such as;
a) equipment doesn't work properly
b) equipment is improperly calibrated, if applicable
c) equipment takes up huge amounts of time and energy to construct
d) equipment ends up costing more to construct properly than purchased, professionally assembled equipment
Case in point; the last bit of shop equipment I constructed was a remote fuel tank to hang over my lift for synching carbs with the tank off. I did a beautiful job constructing one out of PVC pipe with a high quality brass shutoff valve, even painted it red to give it a more professional appearance. It looks good, works well, and in the end cost me $10.00 more to construct than a commercially available product...not including my time and energy. Yeah, we all get off on doing it ourselves and that whole thing, but sometimes we're not saving anything but our own delusions. Still, if anyone wants to have a go at it, be my guest!
I ask myself this; do my customers want to see homemade equipment, or commercially available tools used on their machines?

[tkent02]

Not downing anyone here, so don't take it that way, but frequent attendance at the School of Hard Knox has taught me that (unless you're Smokey Yunick) cobbling together home-brewed equipment usually results in predictable results, such as;
a) equipment doesn't work properly
b) equipment is improperly calibrated, if applicable
c) equipment takes up huge amounts of time and energy to construct
d) equipment ends up costing more to construct properly than purchased, professionally assembled equipment
Case in point; the last bit of shop equipment I constructed was a remote fuel tank to hang over my lift for synching carbs with the tank off. I did a beautiful job constructing one out of PVC pipe with a high quality brass shutoff valve, even painted it red to give it a more professional appearance. It looks good, works well, and in the end cost me $10.00 more to construct than a commercially available product...not including my time and energy. Yeah, we all get off on doing it ourselves and that whole thing, but sometimes we're not saving anything but our own delusions. Still, if anyone wants to have a go at it, be my guest!
I ask myself this; do my customers want to see homemade equipment, or commercially available tools used on their machines?

This method has been in use longer than the fancy equipment commonly in use today, it is accurate. And cheap. There is no calibration, no errors.

It's a basic water level, like the ancient Egyptians used. Tested technology.

My little tank for synching carbs cost me...Nothing!
It's not made out of cheap ass PVC either.

Maybe your not much of a cobbler.

[seuadr]

next time you want something for fuel, use a 2litre with a hole drilled to accept a barb fitting the same size as your fuel hose. i found as long as you drill it straight and use tefflon tape, it doesn't leak, and the bottle is totally disposable, just re-use the cap

[Eli69]

when syncing carbs i hung a gas can from the ceiling above the bike and stuck a hose in it, started it siphoning and quickly hooked it to the carbs. cost nothing but i can see where one might consider that less than professional.

if i can remember to buy the tubing someday i'm definitely making my own vac gauge. my old honda 750 shop manual has directions on making one. never did it yet cuz a friend let me borrow his mercury gauges.

[80GS750]

if you had 4 cheap vacuum gauges, couldnt you just hook one up to each carb and do the synch that way???