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I was asked about comments made with regard to making your own replacement windshield. This will work very nicely on almost any fairing.
Make your own fairing-mount windshield
Other clear plastics will work, but my recommendation is the product name of LEXAN.
LEXAN is a product originally made for outer-space applications. It is stronger, for both weight and thickness, than other polymer products, such as lucite, and less prone to yellowing.
LEXAN comes with at least one side coated in sticky paper. Usually both sides are coated with this as a protective covering..
If there is only one side coated, this is the side you will use for marking the shape.
When drawing, place the unprotected side down on a piece of soft cloth that is large enough to cover the entire area. This is an important step in avoiding scratches.
Step one
If you have an old windshield, or just the base part of it, remove it carefully from the fairing because you want to use the bottom part to use as a template for drilling holes in your replacement.
If you have an original full windshield that has yellowed or become badly scratched, but is the right height for you, remove it and it will be the full template for a new one, which can be an exact duplicate in size and shape.
Step two
If the original shield is too low, or too high, then get a piece or cardboard from a thin box ( a cereal carton will do nicely) and tape it against the original one.
Get someone to hold the bike upright while you sit on it, then lower or raise the cardboard until it suits you. No, it is not the same if you use the centrestand.
I prefer having the top of the windshield at least an inch below my eye level when I am seated comfortably. Note that if you have a passenger on board, the effective windshield height may seem to rise, depending on how it is mounted.
Once the height is found, tape the cardboard to the old shield and trim it to shape with scissors.
Step three
.
.
Remember to cushion the plastic underneath to protect from scratches.
Place the old windshield, or the new cardboard/shield template flat against the covering on the LEXAN.
A small tip.....unless you are very sure of your measuring skills, it is a good idea to make the new piece a bit taller than you think you need. It can be shortened later, if necessary, but not stretched.
Use a small-tipped felt marker held lightly against the shield or cardboard and trace the outline onto the covering.
Set aside the old part(s)
Step four
If you have a bench mounted scroll saw you just cut the perimeter of the LEXAN .
If using a portable jig saw or spinsaw (the blade looks like a drill bit and spins instead of moving up and down) then having an array of 2 x 4s helps here. They can be moved around to accommodate the blade as it moves around the work.
BE CAREFUL TO AVOID SCRATCHES.
That means lifting the plastic and moving the wood to accommodate the blade, then returning the plastic to the new bed.
Cut it and you are done, but DO NOT REMOVE the coating yet.
Now, place the original shield tightly against the new work, put them both against a piece of 2x4 or other wood, and clamp lightly.
Using the old ‘shield as a template, drill the new mount holes right through the old one. This gets you proper placement of each hole and the wood beneath it allows for a clean edge, without splitting.
Be sure you are using a sharp drill bit. If unsure of sharpness use a new bit.
.
A belt sander will do the needful for shaping. A bench-mounted one will be very nice, but a portable one works very well.
Use ONLY a “fine” grit belt.
It is best to clamp the new work lightly to prevent flexing while you sand it, and to prevent your cutting too deeply, which would given you the wrong shape.
A rough sanding is all that is necessary at the moment.
Fit the new windshield to the bike, using the stock mount mounting parts.
Note that this means you will need rubber (or other flexible material) washers and if there were none, or the old ones have perished, get new ones.
If you have the deep-centre washers that allow the screw/bold head to nest inside, use them on top of the rubber washer/spacer.
If not, use a stainless washer, and be certain you use a pan-head bolt or screw. This means the bolt/screw head will be flat at the point where it contacts the washer.
Snug them all in place, but do not tighten (the protective covering is still in place and must be removed later)
Now sit on the bike, with someone helping to support it, and be sure it fits well for you.
If a substantial amount is still to be removed, de-mount the work and go back to the cutting bed.
Adjust as necessary with the jig/spin saw
If only a nominal amount of adjustment is needed, use the belt sander. FINE grit only while the LEXAN is mounted on the bike..
Once the height is adjusted, use the belt sander to clean up the final shape.
USE A LIGHT TOUCH and KEEP MOVING..
Do several passes INSTEAD of a single heavy-handed one.
Holding in place for too long or using too much pressure. will cut away far too much material.
Once shaping is completed, put away the sander. There may be a temptation to finish the edge with it, but resist it.
Use a sanding block...the foam-based ones are ideal. Using the fine grit always, rub the edge of the plastic to take away any grit that remains.
Loosen the bolts/screws at the mount area and peel back the covering.
Re-tighten the fasteners.
Now the flexibility of the foam sanding block will help.
Using a light pressure, press the sanding block against the edge just enough to make it confirm to the edge. Do this slowly so you make no mistakes. This will round it off just a bit and give you a finished edge, without scratching the surface.
Now remove all the coverings and go for a ride.
My experience:
1/8 inch LEXAN mounted on a GK fairing does not distort, and has no flex or wobble, at 120 MPH
.
Make your own fairing-mount windshield
Other clear plastics will work, but my recommendation is the product name of LEXAN.
LEXAN is a product originally made for outer-space applications. It is stronger, for both weight and thickness, than other polymer products, such as lucite, and less prone to yellowing.
LEXAN comes with at least one side coated in sticky paper. Usually both sides are coated with this as a protective covering..
If there is only one side coated, this is the side you will use for marking the shape.
When drawing, place the unprotected side down on a piece of soft cloth that is large enough to cover the entire area. This is an important step in avoiding scratches.
Step one
If you have an old windshield, or just the base part of it, remove it carefully from the fairing because you want to use the bottom part to use as a template for drilling holes in your replacement.
If you have an original full windshield that has yellowed or become badly scratched, but is the right height for you, remove it and it will be the full template for a new one, which can be an exact duplicate in size and shape.
Step two
If the original shield is too low, or too high, then get a piece or cardboard from a thin box ( a cereal carton will do nicely) and tape it against the original one.
Get someone to hold the bike upright while you sit on it, then lower or raise the cardboard until it suits you. No, it is not the same if you use the centrestand.
I prefer having the top of the windshield at least an inch below my eye level when I am seated comfortably. Note that if you have a passenger on board, the effective windshield height may seem to rise, depending on how it is mounted.
Once the height is found, tape the cardboard to the old shield and trim it to shape with scissors.
Step three
.
.
Remember to cushion the plastic underneath to protect from scratches.
Place the old windshield, or the new cardboard/shield template flat against the covering on the LEXAN.
A small tip.....unless you are very sure of your measuring skills, it is a good idea to make the new piece a bit taller than you think you need. It can be shortened later, if necessary, but not stretched.
Use a small-tipped felt marker held lightly against the shield or cardboard and trace the outline onto the covering.
Set aside the old part(s)
Step four
If you have a bench mounted scroll saw you just cut the perimeter of the LEXAN .
If using a portable jig saw or spinsaw (the blade looks like a drill bit and spins instead of moving up and down) then having an array of 2 x 4s helps here. They can be moved around to accommodate the blade as it moves around the work.
BE CAREFUL TO AVOID SCRATCHES.
That means lifting the plastic and moving the wood to accommodate the blade, then returning the plastic to the new bed.
Cut it and you are done, but DO NOT REMOVE the coating yet.
Now, place the original shield tightly against the new work, put them both against a piece of 2x4 or other wood, and clamp lightly.
Using the old ‘shield as a template, drill the new mount holes right through the old one. This gets you proper placement of each hole and the wood beneath it allows for a clean edge, without splitting.
Be sure you are using a sharp drill bit. If unsure of sharpness use a new bit.
.
A belt sander will do the needful for shaping. A bench-mounted one will be very nice, but a portable one works very well.
Use ONLY a “fine” grit belt.
It is best to clamp the new work lightly to prevent flexing while you sand it, and to prevent your cutting too deeply, which would given you the wrong shape.
A rough sanding is all that is necessary at the moment.
Fit the new windshield to the bike, using the stock mount mounting parts.
Note that this means you will need rubber (or other flexible material) washers and if there were none, or the old ones have perished, get new ones.
If you have the deep-centre washers that allow the screw/bold head to nest inside, use them on top of the rubber washer/spacer.
If not, use a stainless washer, and be certain you use a pan-head bolt or screw. This means the bolt/screw head will be flat at the point where it contacts the washer.
Snug them all in place, but do not tighten (the protective covering is still in place and must be removed later)
Now sit on the bike, with someone helping to support it, and be sure it fits well for you.
If a substantial amount is still to be removed, de-mount the work and go back to the cutting bed.
Adjust as necessary with the jig/spin saw
If only a nominal amount of adjustment is needed, use the belt sander. FINE grit only while the LEXAN is mounted on the bike..
Once the height is adjusted, use the belt sander to clean up the final shape.
USE A LIGHT TOUCH and KEEP MOVING..
Do several passes INSTEAD of a single heavy-handed one.
Holding in place for too long or using too much pressure. will cut away far too much material.
Once shaping is completed, put away the sander. There may be a temptation to finish the edge with it, but resist it.
Use a sanding block...the foam-based ones are ideal. Using the fine grit always, rub the edge of the plastic to take away any grit that remains.
Loosen the bolts/screws at the mount area and peel back the covering.
Re-tighten the fasteners.
Now the flexibility of the foam sanding block will help.
Using a light pressure, press the sanding block against the edge just enough to make it confirm to the edge. Do this slowly so you make no mistakes. This will round it off just a bit and give you a finished edge, without scratching the surface.
Now remove all the coverings and go for a ride.
My experience:
1/8 inch LEXAN mounted on a GK fairing does not distort, and has no flex or wobble, at 120 MPH
.
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