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biker_guy
tank cleaning
I'm trying to get my tank cleaned out before I coat it. I've put different stuff in there to slosh around to get it clean. The biggest problem I'm having is I can still here little chunks rattling around. I just can't get them all out. Has anyone stuck a shop vac hose in there tank or something??Tags: None
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schlyme
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diesel
No experience with this but
Originally posted by biker_guy View PostI'm trying to get my tank cleaned out before I coat it. I've put different stuff in there to slosh around to get it clean. The biggest problem I'm having is I can still here little chunks rattling around. I just can't get them all out. Has anyone stuck a shop vac hose in there tank or something??
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cbrophy22
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Billyboy
I took off the fuel gauge sending unit, tossed in pea gravel, shook like I was getting tazed, and sucked it all out with a shop vac. Worked awesome!
The vac helps to get the rusty dust too.
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Matchless
Originally posted by diesel View PostI got my issue of the VJMC magazine today and they had a write up on this. It sounds like after treating you won't need any coating inside unless it is to repair leaks in the tank.
http://www.rusteco.com/
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STANDIGGITY
Here are most of your options when it comes to reviving the old tank:
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html
I'd paste it, but it's huge.. but a good read.
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rudy
I've used Zep Calcium Lime & Rust remover with great results. Doesn't hurt your paint, and is done in about 24 hours. Apparently it doesn't hurt the environment either. No need to coat the inside after.
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STANDIGGITY
Coating the inside after is more of a preventative measure. Just read up on the coats that don't hold up as well.
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rodm850g
tank cleaning
Guys,
I just finnished up my tank for my GS850GN, used the POR-15 basic motorcycle kit....The Marine clean did a good job. was some rust scale in there and most came out in first flush. They list it as non-toxic...and it may be....however if you don't wear some kind of glove your hands will peel.
The second part that has the acid reaction mentioned does a pretty good job, not as acidic as some products but will stng flesh....still got on your gloves? Good because the tank sealer is toxic for sure.....just read the label on the can...that'l do it.....appliocation after the tank is fairly straight forward.....pour it all in the tank and slosh it around....reall best to let it flow slowly around and I paid more attention to the bottom of the tank where most rust problems arise. The product reminded me of silver paint. They suggest that you give a 96 hour period to set up before using.
I have used the more widely known brand once and never again...even if you get a goodcoverage adhesion is in question....the POR-15 was about $40 and well worth it to me.....now I'm looking to getting my GS850 back on the road again.....
Rodm850g
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schlyme
Originally posted by rodm850g View PostGuys,
I just finnished up my tank for my GS850GN, used the POR-15 basic motorcycle kit....The Marine clean did a good job. was some rust scale in there and most came out in first flush. They list it as non-toxic...and it may be....however if you don't wear some kind of glove your hands will peel.
The second part that has the acid reaction mentioned does a pretty good job, not as acidic as some products but will stng flesh....still got on your gloves? Good because the tank sealer is toxic for sure.....just read the label on the can...that'l do it.....appliocation after the tank is fairly straight forward.....pour it all in the tank and slosh it around....reall best to let it flow slowly around and I paid more attention to the bottom of the tank where most rust problems arise. The product reminded me of silver paint. They suggest that you give a 96 hour period to set up before using.
I have used the more widely known brand once and never again...even if you get a goodcoverage adhesion is in question....the POR-15 was about $40 and well worth it to me.....now I'm looking to getting my GS850 back on the road again.....
Rodm850g
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Billy Ricks
+1 on the POR-15. Great product that yields terrific results. My tank was pretty clean but I would still find fine rust particles in the carb bowls until I did the POR.
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I just got finished cleaning out the tank on my 1100E. It had quite a bit of rust inside. I used 2 gallons of Evapo-rust. I let it sit for 1 day in the regular position, then turned it on each side for about 12 hours. Next I drained it, rinsed it with water, then sloshed some rubbing alcohol inside to evaporate the water. The inside bottom of the tank looked clean. So far, so good.
BobCurrent:
2008 BMW R1200RT
Past History:1971 Honda CB350; 1972 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS550E
1979 Suzuki GS850G
1980 Suzuki GS850G
1983 Suzuki GS1100E
2006 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
2004 BMW R1150 RT
2009 Triumph Bonneville SE
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
Evapo-Rust is good stuff. It's reusable so don't throw it away. Not sure about your tank but when using Evapo-Rust on a few parts it did take some time to work. Don't be worried about leaving it in the tank for longer than a day. Just rotate the tank every few hours until all the rust is gone. You can have a look inside the tank by peering in through the petcock and sender unit holes - put a strong flashlight shining in the main fill opening and you will have enough light to see in through the various holes. Worked for me anyway.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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drhach
Are you trying to save the paint job? If not, take it to a radiator shop, they can clean it out great.
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