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    clutch lever repair

    I was trying to adjust my clutch and every time I pulled the lever it would change. After further inspection the hole in the lever was oblonged and causing a lot of slop. So I drilled the lever out then the top of the perch and slid a bronze bushing into place. Checked for fit and function, then disassembled and drilled the bottom of the perch for the new bolt to run thru.

    I think I need to file the bushing down a bit to tighten up the lever a bit more. It doesn't move back and forth(if that makes sense) anymore but I still have a bit of up and down play left. Otherwise it swings smoothly thru it's travel and cost about four bucks to do.

    #2
    Nice one, and a very useful little tutorial, that will benefit most of us, as this has always been a weakness on the GS', I have had loose clutch levers since before granny was still a pin up girl, always just bought new levers.
    Thanks for sharing.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Flyboy View Post
      Nice one, and a very useful little tutorial, that will benefit most of us, as this has always been a weakness on the GS', I have had loose clutch levers since before granny was still a pin up girl, always just bought new levers.
      Thanks for sharing.
      damn that's funny I don't care who you are.

      Comment


        #4
        New one

        Why didn't you just buy a new one...

        i feel the bronze sleeve will wear of faster than the lever alloy..(but i could be wrong)

        anik

        Comment


          #5
          If I understand this correctly, the bronze bushing is actually an amalgam impregnated with oil -- it's basically intended for use as a low-speed bearing.

          Sometimes known as a "babbit" bearing:


          So the bushing should actually last a long time. Plain copper or bronze wouldn't last very long.

          FWIW, I've tried using aftermarket levers a few times, and they wear out much more quickly than OEM levers. And when you actually check the prices of OEM levers, they're only a buck or two more than the cheapies.

          Next time you order a batch of Suzuki parts, throw in a set of new levers for an additional $15 or $20 total.
          1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
          2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
          2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
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          Comment


            #6
            I love fabricating. Good work.

            Bushings like this are typically called "oilite bronze"

            Babbit is different, it's a softer material. Plain engine bearings typically have a layer of babbit on a steel core, the idea being dirt and debris can embed in the babbit and not destroy the bearing.

            Regarding wear, yea, the aluminum will wear faster but so what? I've seen clutch levers themselves with bronze busings on the pivot so maybe bush the lever after it starts to wear out.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

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            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              I love fabricating. Good work.

              Bushings like this are typically called "oilite bronze"

              Babbit is different, it's a softer material. Plain engine bearings typically have a layer of babbit on a steel core, the idea being dirt and debris can embed in the babbit and not destroy the bearing.

              Regarding wear, yea, the aluminum will wear faster but so what? I've seen clutch levers themselves with bronze busings on the pivot so maybe bush the lever after it starts to wear out.
              You could also replace the bushing every few years if it needs it. You guys DO grease your levers and cable ends every once in a while don't you?
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

              Comment


                #8
                this is just a low buck alternative to a new lever. Since mine was shot, I figured why not. $4 vs $15-20 looked better to me. Besides it adds a bit of detail to an otherwise over looked area.

                Comment


                  #9
                  awesome idea, sir.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    I love fabricating. Good work.

                    Bushings like this are typically called "oilite bronze"

                    Babbit is different, it's a softer material. Plain engine bearings typically have a layer of babbit on a steel core, the idea being dirt and debris can embed in the babbit and not destroy the bearing.

                    Regarding wear, yea, the aluminum will wear faster but so what? I've seen clutch levers themselves with bronze busings on the pivot so maybe bush the lever after it starts to wear out.

                    Good info. The word "babbit" popped into my head, but that wasn't quite it.

                    You can get these bushings at any decent hardware store (not the big box home stores).
                    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                    Eat more venison.

                    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                    SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                    Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i have seen them at lowes and home depot, but got mine at the local fastener supply.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        oilite = brand of sintered bronze bushings

                        A scintered bronze bushing is impregnated with oil, so as it wears it retains lubrication. It is self lubricating.

                        If you want to see how this works, try setting the flame of a propane torch to one. It will smoke then weep oil. Of course you won't likely be wanting to use it in your clutch lever repair after that.

                        S.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I had same problem. I cut and drilled a small socket, to "sleeve" the lever.
                          stock bolt went right back in.
                          Hardware store shopping might have been an easier fix, but I was on a roll. worked great though, and MUCH cheaper than a new one.

                          Oh, and the hardened socket will likely never ware out...

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