best way to remove broken header stud?

[kilog55]

i have a snapped bolt/stud whats the best way to remove without causing any more damage?

also would it be better to use stainless in the heads? cause my V&H came with black coated steel.

[quexpress]

i have a snapped bolt/stud whats the best way to remove without causing any more damage?

also would it be better to use stainless in the heads? cause my V&H came with black coated steel.

This is what I have done on my GV1200

http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=TAZZZ2U&msg=6379.17

Good luck!

[posplayr]

quexpress

This is what I have done on my GV1200

Very Cool

Pos

[Billy Ricks]

Socket cap, aka allen head, stainless is the way to go. Just make sure you use anti-sieze compound on the threads when you bolt it back on.

[derwood]

if you can get to a mig and weld a nut on the broken stud, that works really well.

[kilog55]

yeah i have access to a mig and machining tools ill have to run it buy my friends as they have the lathes and cnc machines.

and let them do it as they are vintage riders as well.

is that a part you can buy or is it made?

[Bribird]

I agree with Derwood,
If the stud is sticking out a little bit the welding a nut method works great. It not only gives you something secure to back the stud out, the heat from the weld typically works in your favor also. I personally have used this trick at least 20 times with it working for me every time.

Good Luck.

[kilog55]

yeah ill have to see it is sticking out any or flush

[howling60]

sticking out, or flush...

tools needed: mig welder, hammer, vice-grips, penetrating oil.

wind the heat up on the mig, toss a big blob of weld on "head" of broken stud... before it cools, smash with a hammer, shoot with penetrating oil, Mig, hit, spray... alternate in vice-grips for a "twist" both loosen & tighten every 3ish repeats... continue till you have a big "head" back on the stud & you can back it out using the vice-grips.

the heat from the mig & vibration from the hammer... help to get the penetrating fluid in there & help to break up the oxidation-weld between the steel stud & the aluminum case. the vice-grips.. well they do a nice job of... gripping :P.. the weld blob, provides a nice big head to grab onto.

best way i've found yet to remove broken studs/bolts from anything...

-Nate

[kilog55]

sounds fun actually

[derwood]

[quote=howling60;966974]sticking out, or flush...

tools needed: mig welder, hammer, vice-grips, penetrating oil.

Ive had success with flush breaks and recessed (never recessed in aluminum though) I just use appropriate heat, about 3 on a millermatic 185. CLEAN the end of the stud off really well.
weld a nut of no particular size on the stud, through the hole in the nut (might even run a drill bit through the nut first to make a bigger hole and CLEAN it).
Try and turn it out, if it breaks try again. I think the heating of the broken bolt really helps. Penetrating oil just kinda ****es me off an screws up the weld quality.
Dont quench it with water or the stud will harden up.

[drhermanstein]

sticking out, or flush...

tools needed: mig welder, hammer, vice-grips, penetrating oil.

wind the heat up on the mig, toss a big blob of weld on "head" of broken stud... before it cools, smash with a hammer, shoot with penetrating oil, Mig, hit, spray... alternate in vice-grips for a "twist" both loosen & tighten every 3ish repeats... continue till you have a big "head" back on the stud & you can back it out using the vice-grips.

the heat from the mig & vibration from the hammer... help to get the penetrating fluid in there & help to break up the oxidation-weld between the steel stud & the aluminum case. the vice-grips.. well they do a nice job of... gripping :P.. the weld blob, provides a nice big head to grab onto.

best way i've found yet to remove broken studs/bolts from anything...

-Nate

I use this method almost every day. Its worked well for me waaaay better than any "extraction " tools. I consider those kinds of tools "involuntary hardened steel hole plugs"

The only thing I do differently is I weld on a washer with a little meat then the nut to the washer. You get a much better chance at penetrating the stud because of easier access and more heat cycles.

[howling60]

I use this method almost every day. Its worked well for me waaaay better than any "extraction " tools. I consider those kinds of tools "involuntary hardened steel hole plugs"

The only thing I do differently is I weld on a washer with a little meat then the nut to the washer. You get a much better chance at penetrating the stud because of easier access and more heat cycles.

aaahh.. very good point/idea! i never really thought of that aspect!

-Nate

[quexpress]

I use this method almost every day. Its worked well for me waaaay better than any "extraction " tools. I consider those kinds of tools "involuntary hardened steel hole plugs"

The only thing I do differently is I weld on a washer with a little meat then the nut to the washer. You get a much better chance at penetrating the stud because of easier access and more heat cycles.

That's exactly what the welder tried when he screwed up the bolt on my GV1200.
How are things Herman?

[anthonygs1000]

dont cry over broken bolts

Even if the bolt is broken off flush you could tig weld a stud out of the broken bolt I have done this a couple times