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lurch12_2000
Originally posted by BassCliff View PostAs I recall, loosen the rear axle, slide the rear wheel forward a little, take the (now loose) chain off the sprocket, remove the rear wheel. Pretty simple. Oh, I guess you have to remove the rear adjusters too (What do you call those thingys?). Does your rear axle have a pinch bolt?
How about these?
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BassCliff
The chain adjusters and spacers will fall off as you slide the rear axle out. Remember which way they all go...the adjustment markers(lines)face outward and the rear caliper arm only goes on one way....
NOTE: jack the rear end up an extra 2-3 inches to allow the rear wheel to tilt and slide out and clear the fender much easier, too.
Maybe I should have taken pics on my last change of the E's rear tire?
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almarconi
I successfully removed the front tire on my bike this afternoon. After I let the air out, I was able to break the bead with my hands. Used two motion pro tires irons to remove one side of the tire. Pulled out the tube and then removed the tire from the rim. I would have thought it would have required a lot more effort. I'm sure the rear one will be a #$&*^ to remove. I usually don't complete a repair job without some problem arising. Nothing ever seems to go as planned.
I have been putting off changing the tires but I got a flat on the way home from work yesterday. Looks like a roofing nail got stuck in my rear tire. Now that the bike is down for tires, I am going to replace the front fork springs and rear shocks with progressives. My fork seals are not leaking but I may replace them while I've got the front end apart.
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Harbor Freight machine for 80 dollars, on sale. Best investment ever.
I wasn't able to get the tire bead breaker to work with motorcycle tires. I have to break some down this week so I'll have another look at it.
Here is a good site with step by step instructions for doing it yourself.
1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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TheCafeKid
A big arse "C" clamp is what i was taught to use for a bead breaker. MOST times it works, though ive had a couple of "baked on" beads that simply refused to break with a clamp, and deadly force was required. If you're not worried bout the old tire, and cant break the bead, a hack saw is a pretty good buddy...
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Fishman
"I wasn't able to get the tire bead breaker to work with motorcycle tires. I have to break some down this week so I'll have another look at it."
Duaneage, the bead breaker on the HF machine should work fine. I'm a total novice at it, but I have used it to replace tires on 5 different cycles now, with tires ranging from 1 year old to an original front on an '81 550t. It works great, but it wasn't intuitive at first. Forgive me if I'm being too simple here, but it took me some time to figure it out. The large tire iron is used as a lever to press the bead breaker down on the tire. It's possible you have it miss-assembled too. The crescent portion of the breaker that contacts the tire should match the curve of the wheel. I had mine on all wrong at first.
That said, it works better with two people to install the tires. I have a problem with the bead on the opposite side riding up over the rim as I'm installing it. It helps to have someone else preventing that with the use of a small tire iron. I also have a problem sometimes with the rim rotating in the clamps due to the force required to roll the tire on. Somewhere I saw a post with replacement nylon clamps for the HF machine that looked really nice, and would prevent marring. They may also clamp better, I don't know. It's likely I'm just not that proficient and there are some tricks. However, it works for me.
I've never tried to change a motorcycle tire with just tire irons, but after working to get a few "vintage" tires off the rim, I don't ever want to.
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GSXXZRX
[QUOTE=Fishman;
I have a problem with the bead on the opposite side riding up over the rim as I'm installing it.
I've changed at least 40 tires with the Harbor Freight changer. I change tires
for all the guys I ride with. I bought enough Rim Savers to go all the way
around the wheel. A lot of the wheels I change are painted. Once you get the hang of it, it takes about 5 minutes a wheel. I think the bead breaker
works perfect on cycle rims.
Fishman
Try using four or five 1x1x4 wooden blocks to keep the tire bead in the well of the rim.
Also, NAPA sells a product called Ru Glide tire lube. Stuff works great.
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Fishman
Thanks GSXXZRX, I'll try that. I assume the wood blocks keep the tire bead toward the center of the rim, what you refer to as the well. That makes good sense as once the bead gets up next to the rim edge, there's less room for the tire to stretch over the rim on the other side. I'll have to look for the rim savers, I like the idea of not having to move the protector as you roll the bead in.
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mistertoadie
Just wanted to mention to all tubeless tire changers, change your valve stems too!!!! they will crack all the way around the junction with the rim and you may not notice until they go. Bad thing to happen at highway speeds or over. I bought a 1982 honda 750 custom once that looked like it just rolled out of the showroom. Tires were perfect, like new. I bent the front valve stem over with my finger and it snapped right off. BE WARNED!!!!
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bergemannta
Whenever I've had to mount tires by hand I've found using a ratchet strap around the center of the tire and slowly add air and release tension works relatively well. I think I will stick to that method.
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Strick
one word: heat
warm (hot) rubber makes tire changing VERY easy. You can use the sun, a bullet heater, or even a blow dryer --> HEAT!
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There is no doubt tubes are a pain in the arse. I did a pair a few days ago and there were a pair of unnecessary tubes inside. Just getting the old tires off was tough because the tubes took up space inside the tire.
I did my Yamaha Tuesday, spoked rear wheel. The last 7 inches of bead were a real Hillary and I resorted to small tire levers and carefully pryed it over. I don't like using the levers with tubes but after a long time spent tugging on it something had to be done.
It would be wonderful if a shop was reasonable for mounting tires but they are not. 45 to 50 a wheel if you bring it in, double that if you don't.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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scrapper
I have only done one, my front tire. I used a quick clamp to smash the tire sides together, then used a sawz-all to cut most of the way through the tire.I used wire cutters to finish the bead area. Had to push wires away from the rim with a piece of wood. I hit the wood a couple of times lightly but no damage to the rim.That was the hard part, some small bolt cutters would have worked better. Them wires are really tough and really hard to saw.It was a pain to put tire back on. There is a guy up north of me about an hour, that advertises on craigs list, 20 bucks to change and balance tire. Would be much cheaper and easier.
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Marine36
Local shop mounts and balances for 10 dollars if you but their tires. They sell most tire equal to or less than internet merchants.
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Cycle Recycle II charges $12 per tire while you wait. You remove the wheel and bring it in yourself. It doesn't matter if you buy the tire there or not.
I've seen guys in the back parking lot using Rob's tools to remove their wheel and get a new tire mounted, then reinstall the wheel and ride away.sigpic
SUZUKI: 1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca
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