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Measure all 6 of the diodes in the RR, you MAY have one that is shorted. It only takes one shorted diode to heat the RR up that much while it still provides regulated output. Since there are 3 phases and 5 other diodes you have enough there to provide for the bike, but the RR will heat up. If you do have a bad shorted diode it is only a matter of time before one leg of the stator goes out. Then you will start to have problems getting above 13 volts. eventually the other two legs of the stator will feel the strain and one will go out as well. Then you have 12.2 volts all the time and you get to push start it everywhere.
Of course this could all be wrong. I'm not there to check the diodes so I can only speculate as to why your RR is as hot as the cylinder head.
To check the diodes use a voltmeter and set it to measure diodes.. You can use a meter without a diode check feature, just set it to read 0 - 1000 ohms or so.
Connect the red to the ground lead and the black to the RR stator input lines, one at a time. There are three so you connect it to each one individually. You should measure about 500 - 600 ohms and they should be the same for all three.
Now connect the Black meter lead to the + output of the RR and probe the stator input connections with the Red lead. You should see the same 500 - 600 ohms for those three diodes as well.
Do all this with the RR unplugged from the bike and have a pin out diagram for the RR handy. You are measuring things in reverse since diodes block flow in one direction and flow in the other. This is called forward biasing and in effect the diode turns on allowing voltage to pass. A little is lost due to resistance but it's negligible. In Reverse bias mode the diode should be a brick wall and not allow any current flow. Most diodes appear as a open circuit in reverse bias.
If it checks out OK pull the headlight fuse and test again. Maybe something electrical on the machine is drawing way more current than it should. But this is not healthy for the stator nor the RR.
Of course this could all be wrong. I'm not there to check the diodes so I can only speculate as to why your RR is as hot as the cylinder head.
To check the diodes use a voltmeter and set it to measure diodes.. You can use a meter without a diode check feature, just set it to read 0 - 1000 ohms or so.
Connect the red to the ground lead and the black to the RR stator input lines, one at a time. There are three so you connect it to each one individually. You should measure about 500 - 600 ohms and they should be the same for all three.
Now connect the Black meter lead to the + output of the RR and probe the stator input connections with the Red lead. You should see the same 500 - 600 ohms for those three diodes as well.
Do all this with the RR unplugged from the bike and have a pin out diagram for the RR handy. You are measuring things in reverse since diodes block flow in one direction and flow in the other. This is called forward biasing and in effect the diode turns on allowing voltage to pass. A little is lost due to resistance but it's negligible. In Reverse bias mode the diode should be a brick wall and not allow any current flow. Most diodes appear as a open circuit in reverse bias.
If it checks out OK pull the headlight fuse and test again. Maybe something electrical on the machine is drawing way more current than it should. But this is not healthy for the stator nor the RR.
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