Fork Tube Polishing

[Turtleface]

It seems that my right front fork tube has decided to start leaking, so I figure it's time to replace them. I've found the excellent tutorial Matchless wrote up, but have a question regarding fork tube polishing. Mostly, what's the technique? I have what appears to be very minor surface rust on the top end of the right fork, on the part that sits between the clamps. Fine grit sandpaper? Liquid/cream abrasive compound? What'll give me the best finish? As an aside, what parts of the fork can be painted? Might not be a bad idea while I've got everything apart, and I plan on doing the caliper rebuild/repaint at the same time.

[tank]

you might...

check youtube or ehow for polishing metal... I think I seem something on that while browsing around there...

[Hammered]

I can only tell you how I repaired the set on my build.
They were pitted and the chrome was starting to flake in a couple places. I dipped my forks in a non acidic rust buster liquid. After I took a fine file and very lightly ran it across the slide to remove any area that has raised above the level of the fork. I then polished the areas with emory cloth with light force. After, I cleaned the entire slide with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry and sprayed a very light coat of epoxy clear on the effected areas. I then sanded those with 2000 then recoat and when it "felt" right, I finished with 4000 grit. Mine feel and look pretty damn good. No leaks, holds pressure.

Will it work for you? dont know. But if youre willing to put in some time, it may. Oh it has to be epoxy based clear. Anything else will be eaten by the oil.

[derwood]

you probably don't have to replace the tube, just the seals., possibly the bushings...

[isleoman]

When I put in new seals, if I can see surface scratches in the area of the fork tube that the seal will transverse I have my buddy chuck the tube up in his lathe and spin them. We then take emery cloth and wrap it around the spinning tube moving it back and forth. Doesn't take long (minutes) in a lathe. Don't need to completely remove the scratch just take the sharp edges off it. This also requires that the tube be separated from the shock lower or upper depending on what you got. I have both types.

I know this is only a helpful suggestion if you have access to a lathe.

[almarconi]

I have what appears to be very minor surface rust on the top end of the right fork, on the part that sits between the clamps.

As long as the area that the seal moves against is smooth, rust on the tubes will not cause the seal to leak. It may just be time for some new seals.

[Turtleface]

Indeed, it's time for new seals. I thought I had blow my brand new valve cover gasket on it's maiden 250 mile ride, until I noticed the fluid all over the engine was also on the front of the frame, and on the right-front fork itself. Handling wasn't weird at all, but I've never really pushed the bike yet, so I can't say how dangerous this problem could be. In any case, it's not getting ridden until anymore until I get these silly things done. The parts fiche looks incredibly intimidating. Which parts should get swapped out for new OEM?

I'm probably going to shell out the money for progressives while I'm in there, and either fabricate a block off plate for the anti-dive, or just do the banjo bolt swap/replacement trick in order to make it inoperative. Would a cartridge eliminator be worth installing at this time? Or is it easy enough to do later on if I want to add more adjustability?

[derwood]

#5 and #10 are the fork bushngs, you can check them before you remove the forks by jacking the front off the ground and checking for any perceptible radial play in the fork slider/tube. you may want to check after the wheel is off and the oil is drained as well.
#24 and #6 are the seal and boot.
#16 is a copper or aluminum washer
#25 is an o ring.

PS, Maybe the PDF valve off the newer( 84 and up ) fork will bolt to the older fork, they look a lot cleaner, are 4 position adjustable and require no plumbing.?? I don't know, but I'm guessing they would.

the springs are a straight forward swap and come with instructions.

BTW I believe it is "cartridge emulator", and i've never dealt with them.

[posplayr]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=121271&highlight=cartridge+emulators

[posplayr]

Let it dry and sprayed a very light coat of epoxy clear on the effected areas. I then sanded those with 2000 then recoat and when it "felt" right, I finished with 4000 grit. Mine feel and look pretty damn good. No leaks, holds pressure.

Will it work for you? dont know. But if youre willing to put in some time, it may. Oh it has to be epoxy based clear. Anything else will be eaten by the oil.

Interesting;

I have used a buffing wheel with rouge to smooth the rough edges of pits, but not tried to fill them.

[Hammered]

Interesting;

I have used a buffing wheel with rouge to smooth the rough edges of pits, but not tried to fill them.

The tops that were exposed were in bad shape. But I figured like with most chrome, it was meant for corrosion and ease of cleaning for the wiper. Epoxy buffed out would do the same without re chroming or replacement so... Just about 8 months I think and still holding with zero leaks. I compressed the forks with a ratchet strap and held it for about 4 hours to check for leaks and when i released it, It all sprang back to it original length. Sometimes need is the mother of invention.

[Turtleface]

#5 and #10 are the fork bushngs, you can check them before you remove the forks by jacking the front off the ground and checking for any perceptible radial play in the fork slider/tube. you may want to check after the wheel is off and the oil is drained as well.
#24 and #6 are the seal and boot.
#16 is a copper or aluminum washer
#25 is an o ring.

PS, Maybe the PDF valve off the newer( 84 and up ) fork will bolt to the older fork, they look a lot cleaner, are 4 position adjustable and require no plumbing.?? I don't know, but I'm guessing they would.

the springs are a straight forward swap and come with instructions.

BTW I believe it is "cartridge emulator", and i've never dealt with them.

Thanks for the parts needed breakdown. I'm just going to replace everything I can, if the old fork bushings turn out to be ok, I'll just hang onto them until someone else can use them, or I find another GS to work on that can use them.

When I typed "eliminator", I read "emulator".

After looking closer at the fork tubes, looks like my surface rust may even just be caked on mud. Red mud, but perhaps mud, nonetheless. Caked on enough to not be moved by the likes of Simple Green, or Windex, or purple degreaser, but I don't think it's done any damage to the tube. And, it's the part that's held between the clamps, so it's not mobile, in any case. I just want them to look purty.

[derwood]

the 1150 tubes are painted,
other bikes I've polished them and just left it at that. As others have mentioned, if you have the resources a 10 or 12 inch bench grinder with a buffing wheel and a stick of rouge/ wax makes short work of polishing.
If you get a good polish on aluminum it looks almost chrome and takes years to dull. No more chipped cracked or yellowing clear coat.

[Turtleface]

the 1150 tubes are painted,
other bikes I've polished them and just left it at that. As others have mentioned, if you have the resources a 10 or 12 inch bench grinder with a buffing wheel and a stick of rouge/ wax makes short work of polishing.
If you get a good polish on aluminum it looks almost chrome and takes years to dull. No more chipped cracked or yellowing clear coat.

Yeah, not a big fan of clearcoat, especially on the covers. I'm going to pull them as soon as I get my hands on a cheaper 12 inch, I left mine in Texas ten years ago when I moved to Arizona. Might have to see if Harbor Freight has anything worthwhile.