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I'm reporting this stuff here because I have been asked a few times and it seemed hard to dig out.
A tip if you dont want to file is much is to pre-drill holes in the L bracket so that you get the hour glass shape and then just saw each one off and you will have a more uniform tab and much less filing to form the tab. There is a diagram attached for illustration.
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A tip if you dont want to file is much is to pre-drill holes in the L bracket so that you get the hour glass shape and then just saw each one off and you will have a more uniform tab and much less filing to form the tab. There is a diagram attached for illustration.
Is to get a piece of 1"x1" aluminum L bracket, and cut off a 3/8" piece at the end or(or what ever width the tab is). Then using a file shape one side of the same shape as the original tab was); the other side will be bonded to the back of the cover.
Once you are satisfied with the shape use some plastic weld 2 part epoxy to glue down the piece to the back of the cover. A couple of tips I use:
1.) there are a few of these quick cure 2 part epoxies, the 3000+ psi strength is 24 hour cure time and unusually says "plastic weld" is the strongest.
2.) I use a little sand paper to scratch and clean the under side of the cover first
3.) Use a little masking tape to help form the surface of the epoxy before it cures. This stuff is hard and hard to sand or cut once it cures. Spreading a little tape over to form the epoxy (don't squish it all out you need some strength).
4.) For additional strength and since I was repainting everything, if there are any high stress areas (like right at the front of the 82/83 covers), I layered water proof fiber glass reinforced bondo to improve the strength. It adds a little weight and I could have used fiberglass mat and epoxy resin, but I did not feel that was necessary. If you really need a lot more strength do the fiberglass, but I'm trying to bolster a stress point in a thin piece of plastic. It doesn't take too much and again the bondo is simple and cheap. I did use the fiberglass reinforced so it is more structural that plan non-waterproof bondo (the pink stuff).
If you are careful about locations of the tabs you will not move where the cover mounts, you will avoid the zip ties and it is strong enough to last. Also replace all of the little rubber mounting pieces for the frame and tank; use a little Vaseline (thanks Chef) so the tabs slip in nicely.
Once you are satisfied with the shape use some plastic weld 2 part epoxy to glue down the piece to the back of the cover. A couple of tips I use:
1.) there are a few of these quick cure 2 part epoxies, the 3000+ psi strength is 24 hour cure time and unusually says "plastic weld" is the strongest.
2.) I use a little sand paper to scratch and clean the under side of the cover first
3.) Use a little masking tape to help form the surface of the epoxy before it cures. This stuff is hard and hard to sand or cut once it cures. Spreading a little tape over to form the epoxy (don't squish it all out you need some strength).
4.) For additional strength and since I was repainting everything, if there are any high stress areas (like right at the front of the 82/83 covers), I layered water proof fiber glass reinforced bondo to improve the strength. It adds a little weight and I could have used fiberglass mat and epoxy resin, but I did not feel that was necessary. If you really need a lot more strength do the fiberglass, but I'm trying to bolster a stress point in a thin piece of plastic. It doesn't take too much and again the bondo is simple and cheap. I did use the fiberglass reinforced so it is more structural that plan non-waterproof bondo (the pink stuff).
If you are careful about locations of the tabs you will not move where the cover mounts, you will avoid the zip ties and it is strong enough to last. Also replace all of the little rubber mounting pieces for the frame and tank; use a little Vaseline (thanks Chef) so the tabs slip in nicely.
I got his idea from one of my ED PO's and it works remarkably well. Fashion a post out of aluminum stock to fit the female receiver( the part on the bike). Bond it to the inside of the cover with two part epoxy. The post below is actually made from a piece of "L" bracket so that there is a foot that can be bonded to the flat back.
To improve the adhesion drill a hole in the foot so the epoxy can come through as well as all around. The shape of the post can be done with hacksaw, drill and files (any combination) and aluminum is lighter and easier to work with than steel. It is however much stronger in sheer and less trouble than trying to form a post of fiberglass or epoxy.
One other tip, t oavoid making a gooy mess on the back of the cover, after apply the two part epoxy, tape over it with a bit of masking tape. That allows you to form the shape with your finger and get it pretty smooth. Generally it is easiest to pull the tape back off before it has completely harrdended else the tape will bond too well so the epoxy. The epoxy shapes you see were done that way. without any final grinding required.
Sorry about crappy pics, all I got at the moment. Both of the posts are off my Red ED, which as most know have chronic tab breaking problems.
Pos
To improve the adhesion drill a hole in the foot so the epoxy can come through as well as all around. The shape of the post can be done with hacksaw, drill and files (any combination) and aluminum is lighter and easier to work with than steel. It is however much stronger in sheer and less trouble than trying to form a post of fiberglass or epoxy.
One other tip, t oavoid making a gooy mess on the back of the cover, after apply the two part epoxy, tape over it with a bit of masking tape. That allows you to form the shape with your finger and get it pretty smooth. Generally it is easiest to pull the tape back off before it has completely harrdended else the tape will bond too well so the epoxy. The epoxy shapes you see were done that way. without any final grinding required.
Sorry about crappy pics, all I got at the moment. Both of the posts are off my Red ED, which as most know have chronic tab breaking problems.
Pos
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