Tire Brand Reccomendations

[posplayr]

AM26 = RoadRiders, in case anyone's watching.

Compared to the Pirelli Sport Demons, the Avon RRs have a "quicker" feel, probably from a pointier shape. On a GS, it feels like your bike suddenly lost 150 pounds. This is a good thing...

The Avons also last a lot longer (I get a very consistent 6,000 hard miles out of Avons vs. 4,000 for the Pirelli Sport Demons. YMMV, and will probably be a lot better), and -- this is the important part -- they remain incredibly consistent in feel and traction for the life of the tire. They still feel and work great even when well past the tread wear indicators.

For me, the Sport Demons are great for about 2,500 miles but turn evil as they wear. For the last 1,000 miles or so they're not much good at all.

.

I think this says it all and unless you are looking to save $50 on a set of tires you can buy the Avon AM26 and never look back as far as bias ply performance is concerned.

[Nessism]

A 130 is not the ideal size for a 2.15 rear wheel but the US GS1000E's came with a wider IRC 4.50V-17 on the back from the factory. Pretty sure the 4.50/5.10 equals a 130/90-17. The GS1000S came with a 2.15 rear wheel shod with a 4.00V-18 tire. It's probably safe to say those suzuki engineers ensured both tires were safe at the limit. So the 2.15 wheel width can accomodate different tire widths and it exhibits some compliance.

Suzuki use a 4.00 wide tire on the 2.15 inch wide 18" rears. The 17" rear wheels are 2.5" wide so they can support the wider tire.

You guys can do what you want but no way I'd run a 130 on a 2.15" wide rear.

[salty_monk]

To give a different viewpoint on the Roadriders as far as mileage is concerned.... I am a little less "stout" than Bwringer & have so far managed to get 14000 miles out of a set with probably 2k or so more to go on that.

My 2nd set look about half done at 9,000 too so that wasn't a fluke. That's a GS1000G in the first case & GS1000E in the 2nd. Both 130R and the 100 F/R universal front.

My 750ES has Pilot Powers on it. They really are a different thing to Bias ply altogether.

I ran Elite 3's before the Avon & that was a good tyre too, not quite the nice feel of the very round Avon. Turn-in was slower.

My only complaint on the Avon's is that sometimes I feel they steer a little too quick. This could also be due to our 1.85" front rims. I am going to try a 2.15 front rim next & probably use the same front tyre.

I run 32PSI front & 38R. I have tried various pressures but Avon recommmends 36F & 42R which is too boneshaking for my 165lb butt & Suzuki (30 years ago) said 28F 32R.

[Tenrilid]

I know this is an old thread but extremely informative. My question is, when buying a set of tires do you HAVE to use a rear disignated tire only on the rear and front designated on the front? I have a '82 gs1100ez w/ original wheels and have been having a heck of a time finding matching sets that have 1 front and 1 rear tire. I notice the treads are a little different on some model tires but wanted to get more info. Thanks for the info!

[BassCliff]

My question is, when buying a set of tires do you HAVE to use a rear disignated tire only on the rear and front designated on the front?

No. But if you want to ride safely, yes.

Where are you shopping for tires? You should have no problem finding a set for your bike. Go on over to the the "GS Owners" section and introduce yourself so we can welcome you properly. Then search around in the "Tires/Suspension/Brakes" section for lots of information on, um, tires, suspension, and brakes.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[posplayr]

No. But if you want to ride safely, yes.

Where are you shopping for tires? You should have no problem finding a set for your bike. Go on over the the "GS Owners" section and introduce yourself so we can welcome you properly. Then search around in the "Tires/Suspension/Brakes" section for lots of information on, um, tires, suspension, and brakes.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

OR just by the Avons

[BassCliff]

OR just by the Avons

Yeah Jim, I guess there's that.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[posplayr]

Yeah Jim, I guess there's that.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Or BUY instead of bye or by by the way.

[Rkt-Rch]

Avons ??? Arent these the tires that everybody keeps complaining about cracking! Shinkos Rule !! NO Cracking sofar... I thought only women shoped at AVON LOL Just kidding !!

[posplayr]

Avons ??? Arent these the tires that everybody keeps complaining about cracking! Shinkos Rule !! NO Cracking sofar... I thought only women shoped at AVON LOL Just kidding !!

Yes, I think there was a bad batch. I even have a front that is semi cracked but it only appears cosmetic; I would not hesitate to purchase them as a bias ply tire as they are superior. The Shinkos are supposed to be good as well, and while much cheaper not sure they have the same handling and wear as the Avon road riders.

It would be nice to see a comparison of the Shinko to the road rider. I know of the top two tires that have been suggested here, the Pirelli Sport Demon and the Avon Road Rider, I would select the road rider because of it's similar performance and much longer life. How the Shinkos compare to these two stand outs would be interesting. For out more thrifty brethren

The last set of Avons I bought were $150 for a set 130/90-17, 100/90-19; not sure what prices are now .

[MikeJ]

Originally Posted by Tenrilid
My question is, when buying a set of tires do you HAVE to use a rear disignated tire only on the rear and front designated on the front?

No. But if you want to ride safely, yes.

There are a couple of exceptions, though, to that rule. Some old-school "retro" style tire designs have a symmetrical tread that doesn't care if it's mounted on a front or a rear wheel, or which way the direction of rotation is. And some tires with a unidirectional tread, like the Avon Roadrider, are designed to fit _either_ front or rear -- but to be mounted in opposite directions depending on whether they are on the front (where you want to maximize braking traction) or the rear (to maximize acceleration traction).

I have a set of the Avons on my Guzzi, and like them just fine. Long wearing, very good traction in all conditions, and the center tread design also helps eliminate rain-groove-induced wobble that some tires allow or magnify.

[sedelen]

I got Avon Roadriders for my bikes, I was having a difficult time finding tires and the Avon's were the only ones I could find at the time that fit the stock requirements. I like them alot, so far no problems.

[JCSkokos]

I started reading through this thread and decided to go outside and check my tires on the 650. I have 2 different brands thanks to PO
here they are:

Front
Metzeler Perfect ME77 --- 4 ply --- 100/90-19 57H

Rear
Bridgestone Spitfire 11R --- 130/90-17 68H


Im not sure what some of those numbers mean. I know [width/radius-rim diameter] but Im not too sure about the ME77, 11R, 57H, and 68H.

[82Shafty]

I installed Dunlop E3's on my L and couldn't be happier.

[MikeJ]

Front
Metzeler Perfect ME77 --- 4 ply --- 100/90-19 57H

Rear
Bridgestone Spitfire 11R --- 130/90-17 68H

Im not sure what some of those numbers mean. I know [width/radius-rim diameter] but Im not too sure about the ME77, 11R, 57H, and 68H.

Take a look at BassCliff's tire website, or the Wiki at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_code

ME77 and 11R are just the makers' model designations for those designs -- they have no DOT meaning. The "H" refers to the top speed rating, which IIRC for "H" rated tires means they are certified safe up to 130 mph. "V" speed-rated tires are good up to 149 or so, and there is another designation "Z" that's even higher-speed rated, in case you want to take your 'Busa or summat out on a track day, or an Autobahn, and exceed 150 mph.

The 2 numbers before the speed rating indicate the "load rating" indicating the maximum weight that the tire is designed to support - usually not a big deal in motorcycle applications, but of some import on a heavily loaded tourer I guess.

You also want to look for the "date code" indicating the week/year of manufacture; on the older tires, this will be in 3-digit format (2 for the week of the year, 1 for the year, on the assumption no tires are going to last more than 10 years), which is the way it was done up until 2000. Since 2000, the date code has 4 digits, 2 for the week (1 thru 52) and 2 for the year). If you only have a 3-digit date code, your tire is over 10 years old and way past the end of its useful life as a motorcycle tire especially if you do any leaning in the twisties at all...