desperate on a stuck screw

[fishfarm]

Good thread. I've already used the slot-cutting trick to remove a few screws. My current problem is a stuck air screw. It acts like galled threads, easy to turn at the bottom but harder and then stops a few turns out. It's soaking in PB Blaster now and I'll try some heat later. Are there any other tips or tricks for removing this screw?

Here's a picture of it from John Bloemer Pictorial:

[fishfarm]

Good thread. I've already used the slot-cutting trick to remove a few screws. My current problem is a stuck air screw. It acts like galled threads, easy to turn at the bottom but harder and then stops a few turns out. It's soaking in PB Blaster now and I'll try some heat later. Are there any other tips or tricks for removing this screw?

OK I was able to remove the screw after a lot of "forward and back" motion. The threads on the screw look good. Does anyone know the thread size in case I need to chase the carb threads with a tap?

[esj001]

It's M6 x 0.5 (fine) i believe if we are talking about the same air screw ( its actually an idle mixture adjustment screw). Try McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) or J&L (jlindustrial.com). Other places online probably have it too just do a google search.

[cowboyup3371]

Go to either Ace Hardware/True Value and get what you need. You'll be surprised on how well you make out there.

[fishfarm]

Thanks very much. I'm headed to Harbor Freight for a Dremel-type (I see now why they are so valuable) and some other stuff. Maybe one of their tap-and-die sets has that size. If not, I'll try Ace.

[wyotechpro]

Much like Kcorbin's post below, I wanted to share my resolution to the same situation

I want to stress that I know allot of people that don't understand the idea of "Caressing" the bolt out, instead of trying your luck.

In My situation I had worked from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4. After removing the first bolt, I knew right away that the bolts had most likely never been replaced. bike currently at 27K. I took my time and work each one out successfully up until cylinder 4 Top bolt. The bolt sits snug beside the frame and between the Exhaust pipe. I was able to accomplish movement and thought I was safe when around 1/2 way out without warning just sheared off. I felt that because I had gained movement I could probably extract it with my left hand drill bits. but of coarse because of the frame being so close there was no way to get the drill anyway near there. So I did have to make a trip out to my favorite store Farm and Fleet and purchased a 5/16 about 18" drill bit that I could successfully drill a pilot hole. before drilling I always start with the center punch, then followed by the new bit. at this point with the pilot started I felt more comfortable to use my drill bit extension, (meant for Philips type bits not drill bits) (couldn't find one for Drill bits and not sure if they exist). though intended for the octagon style bit I was able to secure the drill bit in the end with the 2 provided set screws. After trying an extractor and failing I continued to drill out the bolt one size at a time until I saw the threads start to appear. I thought I might be able to then pull out little bits at a time but was unsuccessful. I then hoped for the best as I used my tap to carefully align with the fist couple threads. now because the engine is still in the frame, I came up with an extension concoction. that I was semi proud of. I don't know if it was just my luck but the square drive on the tap was actually vary close to the square drive for a 1/4 ratchet. so i used a 8" 1/4 drive extension with the Tap tool clamped to the end (where the socket normally goes). at times I couldn't get a strait on shot to every cylinder so I put a 1/4 swivel between the extension and Tap. the method work relay well except for a few small abrasions against the frame.

Just sharing my experiences. hope this helps

Thanks for all the knowledge on the site

[barnbiketom]

On those recessed side cover screws that have been previously molested, I simply take my impact driver and put in a wide FLAT bit. then while pressing it straight and centered onto the screw head, I whack it 4 or 5 times keepink it relocated in the same spot each hit. That usually makes a very nice slot in the already bad head. If It looks like it needs more of a slot, I hit it in a few more times. Then while pressing in and turning the driver CCW, I hit it sharply and it almost always comes right out.

On other screws, I also take a sharp needle punch and punch a deep "DOT" into the head anywhere I can get it as far to the outside as possible still in the meat of the head.... then take the same punch and turn it so the force will unscrew that bolt and hit it hard. NEVER FAILS.

[chuck hahn]

Take out the battery and the air box and add some extentions to the driver and go in thru the frame..plenty of swing room for a hammer out there. And ever wonder why they made it a 3/8 removable head?? Thats right...so you can have a socket impact as well!!!

[sedelen]

Soak that dang thing with PB blaster for a few days. Get 2 good chisels. One sharp, one dull head. Knock a notch with the sharpy and then use the big head one to tap it around. Has worked everytime for me. Takes flippin forever, but it will work.

Haven't had this method fail me yet.

[70GT]

I think thats a #2 phillips tip....Whatever, its a good idea. Next time youre at the tool store buy a dedicated apex bit socket. Its magnetic so the bit dont fall out.

The ratchet is great until you run into a tight spot. Thats when I grab an air ratchet.

If the phillips screw head is F'ed up grab a dremel and cut a straight slot in it. Then use a straight apex bit.

I have used this method many times over .

[Cdnpt1]

Good thread. I've already used the slot-cutting trick to remove a few screws. My current problem is a stuck air screw. It acts like galled threads, easy to turn at the bottom but harder and then stops a few turns out. It's soaking in PB Blaster now and I'll try some heat later. Are there any other tips or tricks for removing this screw?

Here's a picture of it from John Bloemer Pictorial:

I read a study recently, I think linked from another post somewhere here, that a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone was far more effective as a penetrating agent. I recently picked up a bike that had that screw stuck, the PO tapped a slightly oversized torx bit in to it to get more traction on it, worked well.