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My bike came to me without the helmet hook cylinder. The seat latch was there, but I wanted to have the complete set-up. I obtained a lock from machspeed, and got it yesterday. I know I could have paid a locksmith to do this, but I'm cheap and possess the MacGuyver gene, so I thought I would see if I could make my key work in this cylinder. SUCCESS! Easier than I thought, and I don't see why it won't work for others.
I didn't take a picture for each step, since the mechanism is just not that complex.
1. Disassemble the lock by detaching the cable that goes to the seat latch, then remove the back plate and the guts that are inside. There's a 2 little springs and a detent ball, so be careful you don't lose them.
2. Once all of the springs and other parts are out, only the cylinder will remain. It is held place by a spring loaded tab shown in the photo. It's difficult to spot, but it's brass, and located at 6 o'clock in relation to the cylinder. I had to clean quite a bit of gunk before I could even see it, so keep that in mind. I used a paring knife with a sharp blade to get between the outer wall and the brass tab, then pushed the brass tab into the cylinder. With surprisingly little effort the cylinder will then push out the front. WATCH OUT! the guts are spring loaded! keep your hand around the core as it comes out so you don't have to hunt for teeny tiny little springs on the floor.
The "keeper" tab is sticking out to the left
3. Once the core is removed you can now reset the pins to match your key. The goal is to rearrange the little brass pieces so that when you insert your key, the surface of the core is smooth, and therefore will allow the core to spin free inside the casing. I had to actually remove one of those blades but I was able to make the others work just by shuffling them into positions (swapping places).
4. As the bad translation goes, refittal is reversal of removal!
I hope I just saved you about $50!
I didn't take a picture for each step, since the mechanism is just not that complex.
1. Disassemble the lock by detaching the cable that goes to the seat latch, then remove the back plate and the guts that are inside. There's a 2 little springs and a detent ball, so be careful you don't lose them.
2. Once all of the springs and other parts are out, only the cylinder will remain. It is held place by a spring loaded tab shown in the photo. It's difficult to spot, but it's brass, and located at 6 o'clock in relation to the cylinder. I had to clean quite a bit of gunk before I could even see it, so keep that in mind. I used a paring knife with a sharp blade to get between the outer wall and the brass tab, then pushed the brass tab into the cylinder. With surprisingly little effort the cylinder will then push out the front. WATCH OUT! the guts are spring loaded! keep your hand around the core as it comes out so you don't have to hunt for teeny tiny little springs on the floor.
The "keeper" tab is sticking out to the left
3. Once the core is removed you can now reset the pins to match your key. The goal is to rearrange the little brass pieces so that when you insert your key, the surface of the core is smooth, and therefore will allow the core to spin free inside the casing. I had to actually remove one of those blades but I was able to make the others work just by shuffling them into positions (swapping places).
4. As the bad translation goes, refittal is reversal of removal!
I hope I just saved you about $50!
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